Thanks
In the original way I have it setup is exactly as your diagram except my left tube, I have a straight pipe like the right side, I do have a ball valve there, you can see it between the 2 unions, so basically I just need a T fitting for the durso.

Tagging along.
Sphelps you drawing is excellant and answers many of my questions. Thx.

Yeap that's cause I drew it up just for you. The ball valve won't serve much purpose but it's already there so no point taking it out. Just watch your heights, the primary needs to be a decent amount below your operating water level to prevent a vortex and your back up can't be too high either otherwise it won't take the full flow. Things look a bit high in your pics but its hard to tell.

In the photo of post 26 could I just drill a hole instead of using a T fitting? and put a valve there,or is it better getting a T?

Thanks
Yung

Definatly use a T fitting with a cap on the end. Think if this drain as a Durso style pipe. You'll want the air space above the water flow. Drill a hole in the top of the end cap, and put an air line/valve in the top to control air intake.

This is a breakdown of a proper one.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...a/rendered.jpg
#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.

#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.

#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.

#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.

#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.

#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.

#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.

#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.

#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.

You could try it without the tee, since you're really just putting a small amount of flow through it, it probably won't matter much. Could always add the tee later.

Don't forget about the other option I mentioned regarding a straight herbie overflow with two back ups. Would look like this:

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ps/Part1-2.jpg

The other option is remove that third overflow pipe all together and close the ball valve. Run the piping after the valve to a hose or something you can stick in a bucket or drain. This way you can use it as a manual drain for draining your overflow and removing water for water changes.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ps/Part2-1.jpg

I like this option the best. I would leave the second back up drain threaded so that if you wanted to drain the overflow to clean it, you would just un screw the drain pipe and re-open the ball valve to drain it. Would make for nice easy cleaning with the safety of redundancy

Hi FishyFishy

This is the original way I have it, all my bulkheads are slip fitting, the main line in the photo with strainer is with a gate valve, the center is not restricted right to the sump, the far pipe with strainer is the secondary has a ball valve.

I am ordering a T for the durso, that will slip in where the secondary is.

I designed this to be flexable.

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...beananimal.jpg

http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/...countertop.jpg