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I have gone through this befor with a basement sump. I also have the same pump as you and hose size .
There's not a big difference in our set-ups. My horizontal run is 16'. The most critical part for basement sump is all that horizontal laying pipe slowing down the inertia of flow. I have found that creating a angled as oppossed to a true horizontal run was the key to getting the air forced out of the siphon line , the other lines were all left horizontal. In this pic you see the sipon line up higher then the rest of the lines http://i318.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/DSC01187.jpg From the top of the truss I just shimmed the return line to create a angle until I was at the bottom of the truss. http://i318.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/DSC01186.jpg Oh ps. the small drilled hole is ment to be just above the waterline when the sump is at running level, this reduces the pressure at the end of the hose which allows the air to purge. |
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All the Bean does is place the secondary at the same height of the main, so it's less prone to floods. Then you still have an emerg as well. And all 3 are large pipe. Plus, the Bean is self-adjusting, and our Herb's aren't fully auto. |
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Below is my 50g with the BA drain system. As some have mentioned here and BeanAnimal has in his threads, Horizontal is not how his system is meant to run. Vertically is the best way to make his system run optimally. There are no bends/elbows for the water to hit, causing friction, hence slowing down. Unfortunately, this isn't always possible, as you will see below.
In the first image from left to right- Secondary drain | Siphon Drain | Emergency I have a slight horizontal run, about 4", before it 45's down to the sump. I tried to avoid this but the way the Oceanic stand is built with the center brace, I couldn't. While this isn't the way the system is designed, it does work and is quite. If you have to go horizontal at all, it's best to make it as short as possible. On my 75g image (SPS tank in the works), the Siphon line isn't completely vertical, but it still lets gravity do it's job. I could have drilled at the upper back corner for all 3 drains, but I didn't want my mini C2C to be offset to one side, and opted to drill at the upper center, just under the brace. In all honesty, the "reef ready", Herbie and BeanAnimal all work with the same thing in mind, drain the water to the sump. The BeanAnimal has the advantage of a failsafe channel and +3000gph through 1.5" plumbing on a completely vertical system. I'm sure that a Herbie through 1.5" could probably do the same, if not close to gph. When it comes down to it, do we all really need the BA system? The answer is no. I really think it's more of a "reef geek" thing. Just like PC lighting, to HO, to Halides, to T5HO, and now LED's, it's the latest/greatest thing since sliced bread :wink: http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/5720/p1010002h.jpg http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/623/75gdrain.jpg |
I like your judgement call on only using one valve for the BA. It doesn't make much sense to have one on every pipe when they are completely unnecessary.
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I think the 1 valve was mentioned somewhere in the second split of his thread. Luckily for me, I read that and saved some $$
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You can't hear it from work :mrgreen: Remember, I'm setting up a Herbie, so don't pick on me. I'm just stating what I've learned about the Bean. It's self-adjusting and virtually flood-proof. The Herbie is very close to this, but is NOT flood-proof. |
Oh, and for the purging ...
A Herbie takes time to get the emerg going as it has air in it, from the venturi caused by it being high/tall whatever. The secondary on the Bean is capable of blocking it's air intake when the overflow level rises. |
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Thought you should edit your post to not mislead others ... From left to right, based on your valve in the center, you have yours setup as;
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So, I made it home tonight.
I lifted the drains out of the sump so they were just 1/2- 1 " into the sump water level, and restarted the system. It purged the air much quicker. Level in DT did not rise above the overflow box level. No where close to an overflow, at close to 1000 GPH. Now it's tough getting the level and noise in the DT overflow to stabalize/quiet down. The main syphon seems noisy, like air is trapped in the overflow section Tee. It must be a residual air purge issue. Tom |
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