yup looks good. thats how mine look.

2 weeks ago I started using NP pellets I started by using 1000 ml in a converted Zeo Reactor on my 400G system. I plan to add at least another 500 ml after about a month.

I currently have a cynobacteria build up in my frag tank. The frag tank is part of my overall system and the cynobacteria seems to be getting worse.

In the past I would have used Boyd Chemicals Chemi Clean to control the cynobacteria.

My guess is that using Chemi Clean in the system would be counter productive to the use of NP Pellets.

Is there anything else I could use to control the cynobacteria while the NP Pellets are getting established?

Tom R

My suggestion would be to dose some bacteria by means of Brightwell MB7 or better yet some Zeo Bak. I have also seen good results by dosing small amounts of Zeo Start 2 in combination with Pellet use. By using these two additives sparingly and increasing flow you should be able to overcome the Cyano issue. Your Pellets should be fairly well colonized by this point; however, you want to avoid monocultures.

Ian
O.C.

Hey Tom,

Ive used KZ Coral snow + brightwell MB7 in conjunction with NP biopellets to get rid of the cyano issues, worked like a charm and the cyano disappeared after 4 days.

Cheers
Eugene

This is exactly what I did. Shortly after starting the pellets I too got a cyano outbreak. The Coral Snow and MB7 got rid of it within a week. Siphoned most of it off and it never came back.

Ok, i have an issue with these pellets, please correct me if i'm wrong.

ALL species in the ocean live on NO3 & PO4, so if you have 0 readings, is this not detrimental to the health of these species?

My system is very nutrient rich, corals are VERY happy, as anyone that has seen our tank can attest to.

When i do WC's our corals shrink and do not look there best till NO3's are back to high levels.

I figure these pellets work best for those SPS tanks, where NO3 & PO4 are crutial to keep at 0.

OK for all of you that have been running the pellets for a while, can anyone give a general time line for them to start working???

My vertex reactor and 1L of pellets have been up and running for 3 and a half weeks now, thursday is 4 weeks. From what it seems on here the time for them to start doing their thing is fairly short. But so far nothing on my end seems to be happening.

I have tried testing the water from the tank and from the reactor both are around the 10ppm range, hard to get an accurate reading with the color test kits. I have also purchased a new test kit which is giving me the same readings.

So can anyone give a general timeline for them to start working????

Thanks
Cam

You should be seeing results by now, what is the flow through the Reactor? How much are you using? Are you running UV or GFO?

Give us some stats....

Ok

I an running a MJ1200, the pellets are tumbling just like all the Utube vids. No UV, no GFO. Im using 1L of pellets.

Also, I saw one post mention the reactor output had Zero nitrate. Is this a generally true statement? Or should I be expecting something in the 5-10 range?

Thanks for the reply

Cam

The output is not always zero as it really depends on what the Nitrate levels are going in. Maybe slow your flow down just a little to allow more reaction time. Also you may want to try dosing some Zeo Bak or Brightwell Microbacter 7, both of these will inoculate your system and help prevent a monoculture situation.

In a sense you are correct that Corals do need a certain amount of these nutrients, this is especially true for some LPS and various other Corals.

I highly doubt your Corals are reacting negatively to the lower Nitrate and Phosphate levels from doing doing a water change, they are likely reacting to small changes in Salinity, temperature, ALK, and other variances.

Keeping Nitrates and especially Phosphates under control is especially important in tanks dominated by SPS. The Beads are also proving to be very helpful in fish only systems with heavy feeding regimens.

Hope this helps!

As far as the Nitrate at zero, I just more or less compare colors of the tests. And so far every test the colors are the same for both tank and reactor (around the 10 mark) keep in mind this is a fairly new setup so there shouldnt be a whole lot of build up. Does the fact of the tank being new, about three months, have any bearing on things????

I will try slowing down the flow and maybe look into some additives.

I hooked up mine but am having a hard time to get them tumbling. I have them in a custom made canister with an 800 rio hooked up to it. I have good flow but they are not tumbling is this okay with good flow?

Ian,
Just to clarify, if I purchase this system which is the vertex package.

http://www.oceaniccorals.com/store/i...&productId=355

And hook up this pump I already have.

http://www.jlaquatics.com/product/wp...ater+Pump.html

I should be good to go? I will obviously need tubing, clamps etc.

When I plumb this in which part of the sump does it draw from and return to.

How many bio pellets do I put in the vertex and which vertex model for a 160g system with a 40g sump.

Thanks,
Chris

Without seeing a video I can't comment for certain but you want to make sure every single Bead is tumbling in the reactor. If any are allowed to clump together they will stick and then possibly turn anoxic creating Hydrogen sulfide gas among other issues. Always make sure the Beads are tumbling wildly!

Ian
O.C.

You should be good to go; however, you are going from 3/4 outlet on the pump to 1/2" on the Reactor, this will not be a problem if you have the right fittings. The GPH is "okay" but a little more would be ideal. The best pump hands down for this setup is the Tunze Silence .020

Hope that helps!

Sorry Chris, I only answered half your questions....lol. Make sure the return aims towards the intake to wherever the skimmer is located. I would run a full 1100ml for your size tank, and I would opt for the UF-20 if you can swing it.

Cheers!

Ian
O.C.

what fittings and hose are people using to plumb the vertex uf-15 reactor? I cant seem to find the right size hose for it. Could some of you post pics on how yours is plumbed.

Cheers
Ray

just so i have this correct, the pellet reactor goes into the sump chamber, where the skimmer is located? and Why?:question:

At first I plumbed my Vertex with flex hose and had to use a crap load of adapters. Plus the hoses ended up snaking around all over the place. Instead I ended up replumbing it with 1/2" sch 40 PVC.

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1272334680 http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1272334768

http://i1002.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1272334790

It is possible to plumb with flex hose but you'll have to find the correct sizes depending on what pump you are using and what adapters you can locate.

I would much rather hard plumb than so hose. I was told to clue the fittings tho so I guess im stuck going with soft plumbing:cry:

the 1/2" PVC joints are all cemented/glued except for the sockets that go into the reactors unions. Those pieces are just wrapped with a bit of Teflon tape and shoved in for a snug fit. It is just like the barbbed fittin that it comes with , those aren't glued, they just sit in the socket. :)

I glued tho barbed peices in to the unioin peice:neutral:

I think I was the one that said to glue the fittings, if so I apologize if it was bad advice; however, this is the way I did it as mine is running externally, I would not trust Teflon if ran outside the sump. For internal Teflon could work.

Ian

You bring up a good point about this reactor, something I wonderEd about myself. How many people glued that piece in?? I too found it strange at first that vertex didn't just have that piece glued from the factory. I decided in the end that if they didn't have it glued then I guess it was snug enough and didn't need glueing. So long as you are not putting preassure in the reactor by valving and blocking the output then I would guess you should be okay.. But that's just a guess and a gamble that I think a lot of people are taking.

I will be running external also. I went to HD in south surrey with the barbed fitting and couldnt find any hose the would fit properly. Ill try another couple of places to see what I can find

Didn't glue mine but I run all reactors in sump so I don't have to worry about it.

I ran mine for 3 months out of sump without gluing and didn't have so much as a drop if water from it. :noidea:

hmmm I have to go to corix tommorow for a work pick up so ill see if the have anything I could use

Yikes! I would worry about the fittings separating.....!!!

I wonder if some are made different because mine was really tight. I mean once I shoved it in there I needed pliers to get it out, I kid you not!

Oh!! :shocked!: Not a chance for some of the ones I have put together including mine! You could tilt the Reactor and the fitting would fall to the floor....

Thanks Ian, I'll let you know if I cant find anything

Oh geez! I must have gotten the 1 in a million with a manufacturing defect :lol:

:drinking:

Guys,
Once bio pellets are being run is there a need to still run my carbon and phos in my TLF cannisters?

Its always good to have carbon running as the bio pellets and carbon remove different things. As for phosphate removers, its not necessary to run them, and i would actually recommend stopping the phos remover as it limits the PO4 levels that the pellets need in order to work properly.

Here is my TLF150 Phosban reactor, with MJ1200, and the New NP Pellets:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbuPRkYg-FA

UPDATED

Can't see your video for some reason, it says private video...??