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The standpipe will be reduced in size when my blank plates arrive for the overflow, you will then not see it.
First corals are in Courtesy of Pat at www.ottawainverts.com Tri coloured Ricordea - reason = for a new set up this is an ideal choice for the tank Bright orange Monti frag - reason = Very hardy and a good indicator of tanks stability Nothing else will be added for two weeks. Dosing - 2 drops of FM Bio per day 1ml of Ultra Bak 0.5ml of ultra Min-S Ultra Life is being dosed also at present due to new fish introduction and the tank being new. Paremeters Ammonia = 0 Nitrite = 0 Nitrate = 0.2 P04 = 0.1 Ca = 460 MG = 1410 DKH = 7 Salinity = 1.0249 I will be switching to ProdiBio shortly as it needs to be reviewed by us. I am not yet dosing any minerals as the draw on the tank is too low to warrant it, as soon as I see a dip in any of the 3 elements then I will set the balling up. |
Quick update -
New pump fitted now pulling 500L/hr and the pump is "silent" Tunze 1073.02. Cloudy water = 75% gone :) Params as of this morning Salinity 1.0249 Redox 325mV pH 8.02 Temp 28c Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0.03 PO4 0.03 Ca 470 (suspect new aragonite causing high Ca) DKH 8 Mg 1410 All fish settled in and the two test corals thriving. Big ProfiLux revue update to follow :) |
THE ProfiLux Review
Well now the "Aqua Digital Tank Build" is nearing set up completion its now time to move onto the profiLux and show everyone what really can be done.
I thought I would do this step by step guide including software screen shots. So lets start with Temperature. As you can see here all probes including the Temp probe are situated in the sump at a level that the probes will never be completely submersed. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2363.jpg (The white tipped probe is the new generic pH probe that will be coming with all beginner packs as of April, just field testing it) So here is a screen shot of the temperature software screen. Here you can see my nominal value is 28 degrees and the hys is set to .02 meaning the tank will only fluctuate by .02, my graphing clearly shows this as an even saw tooth over a 24 hours period. Any more switching than this in a small tank that does not hold heat well could cause thermostat bounce, something to be aware of more so with chillers. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1.../tempinput.jpg So thats the input but what about turning the heater on and off at the set value? Next step is to program the power bar to control the heater, but first set the thermostat of your heater to 1-2 degrees above your nominal value, this is so the GHL had control over the heater but still allowing for failure redundancy, no matter how good your controller is, it could be made by Nasa for all I care, make sure you have redundancy or 3rd party cut out for such devices. Ok onto the power bar. here you can see the power bar input screen and I have chosen socket 1 to be the temperature "heating" control socket. The socket is edited to be Temperature 1 - Heater. If you want to also control a chiller just select another socket i.e socket 2 and program that to Temperature 1 - Chiller. The ProfiLux will then turn either device on or off depending on your nominal value and Hys' set. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ct/socket1.jpg More about the other sockets later. So thats the temperature set up. - Next pH |
OK so pH -
Well once you have set up the Temp everything starts to fall into place like a jigsaw really, setting pH up is no different you are just dealing with different values. So here we have the pH screen http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...pHscreen-1.jpg Just as the temperature control page, you have nominal value current value and hys'. As with the temp input there are plenty of other funky add ons to play with if you wished here, for example nocturnal mode etc, this is important only if you really do not like natures ability to lower pH at night, I personally let the tank follow a rythm. So what can pH be used for? In my case its just monitoring, of course I can set an alarm to wake me at 2am if it drops too low, or goes to high if my Alk dosing got stuck on, or if running a kalk stirrer etc. But the main purpose in reef tanks for pH control other than just monitoring the tank is calcium reactor control. So to set up a ca reactor Co2 solenoid (I do not have this on my tank as I cast that old pony out long ago :) ) First set up your nominal value in a ca reactor it should be around 6.2 to 6.5 depending on your media. The Hys' can be set to 0.1 in this case, we are controlling a solenoid so does not have so many issues with being switched on and off often. Now go back to the socket function screen and decide what socket you wish the solenoid to be plugged into, lets say socket 2 for now. Just as you did with the temp socket set up, select the socket to be edited and set as follows pH - downward thats it you are set, of course you can name the socket Co2 control or Freds Diner what ever you choose ;) If you want to control a Kalk stirrer you can do the same but opposite, if the pH drops you want the kalk to be turned on so set to pH up. Next Salinity control - Oh thats a scary one :) |
So salinity - This will take a while :(
First thing I need to address here is YES when you plug in your highly expensive lab grade platinum plated conductivity probe and follow the instructions to calibrate it to the letter, you will then test your refractometer and drop the whisky glass in disbelief!! WOW can the GHL be that innacurate?? Whaooo stop there :reading: Lets look at what the old trusted refractometer is really designed for? Reading NSW? Nope, reading wee? Yep, Reading NACL? YES, but NOT natural salt water! To do this you must calibrate the refractometer using an NSW solution, the most trusted until recently was Pinpoint 53mS but then along came Fauna Marin with its highly technical "multi reference test solution" I strongly recommend anyone getting a GHL salinity probe and wish to match its reading to a refractometer to get this stuff. Digital reading of salinity IMO will be more accurate than a refract becuase it is not subject to the influences of other refractive compounds found in NSW We are getting a bit deep here and away from reviewing the ProfiLux but what i am trying to say is do not panic if you see the GHL reading different then the old trusted dog the refract' calibrate the refract correctly and you will not see much of a difference. My refract - digital pen and GHL probe is calibrated to fauna solution at 53mS. This does not mean the GHL stuff is innacurate at 50Ms it is just no good for calibrating a refractometer. So if you want to match both you need an NSW solution for the refract. OK so we have follwed the calibration instructions to the letter (mega important) so now what can we do with salinity control? I do not personally do this but I know many GHL users do and that is control their ATO based on the salinity level of the tank. Here is the salinity screen http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/Salinity.jpg I am not going to touch on setting this up here to control ATO, if you wish to do this then let me know and once the review is finished I will discuss more detailed subjects. And next is level control ATO and AWC and alarms. |
So good ole level control etc etc
Lets start with the basics. ATO. There are different ways of doing this Direct from the RO unit (my choice) From storage container (most popular) From one of the above controlled by a salinity probe instead of level sensor (advance topic - later) So which ever you choose of the first two the only thing that changes in the set up is what you plug into the assigned power bar socket, whether it be a water solenoid of water pump. In my case water solenoid. So first thing we must do is set a float or optical level sensor up in the sump to the desired (controlled) level point. Here is mine. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2365.jpg Set up the assembly and loose fit to the sump so it can be adjusted, now go to the profilux front screen and go to level - diagnostic - level 1, adjust the sensor until it just turns off, you now have your level set at where you wish the water to always be maintained at. So back to the software. Go to the level control screen http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ect/level1.jpg By now you should have plugged in your sensor to the back of the profilux and not by mistake plugged it into the temperature port instead :celeb1: Double click on Level 1 in the settings tab at the top and up pops - http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ect/level2.jpg In this box you can set all sorts of treats, the first important thing to set is the function, in this case ATO, the next most important is Max on time, this is your safety net, lets say heavens forbid you forgot to clean your ATO sensor and it stuck on, you are in Cuba and downing a lovely cool local brew while your ATO goes AWOL and floods the Granny apartment below! To avoid such minor issues here you set the maximum time you wish the sensor to be in an active state. So in my case 5 minutes is, well probably to long and needs to adjust that down to 30 seconds, thats a good target. So now you have fail safe ATO :) next in the same screen you need to set up the reaction time, no this is not the time you have to get back from Cuba to sort out the mess in the apartment below, but the amount of time the sensor is active before the controlled socket is switched, this is ideal for tanks with turbulance or other things that can make the sensor switch on and off periodically. I have mine set to 5 secs, which is just right. So thats the ATO sensor set up, what about the socket? You have now chosen a socket to control your pump or solenoid. Just as before go to socket function and click edit the chosen socket. Set this to water 1. Waheyy, you now have fail safe fully set up ATO |
So for the topic tonight - water alarms.
You can have all manner of alarms - Maximum on time alarm (this is described in ATO set up) Low water level alarm High water level alarm Leakage alarm Depending on the amount of sensors you have depends on how many alarm states you can create. I have main tank ovefill alarm and max on time ATO alarm and here i will show you how to create an alarm and shut off for the main pump if the drain got blocked. As you can see from the photo I have attached a float level sensor to the Euro brace inside the weir box, the sensor will then be triggered if the water level rises too high, in doing so setting off an alarm and turning off the main pump. You can set the same thing up for low water in your sump by putting the sensor there instead, mounted differently of course. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1269473755 So how to program? First connect the sensor to a level sensor port. Now go to level control in the software and select the sensor for editing. Set the sensor to leakage detection and set your max on times etc as you choose. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ct/Leakage.jpg Now go to socket function outlet and choose what socket you want the return pump plugged into then edit this socket as follows http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/Leakage2.jpg Here you will see I am using sensor 3 so have programmed as water 3. If using an optical sensor, when setting up the socket fnction remember to "invert" the socket function. Thats all for tonight folks ;) |
So long time coming an update :)
Tank now been running a month, live for 3 weeks. parameters NO2 =0 NO3 = .01 to.02 depending on how tired my eyes are PO4 = 0 Ca = 440 DKH = 8 Mg = 1390 Salinity 34PPT temp = 28 Redox mV = 423mV pH = 8.01 The tank is doing really well i have not had to scrape the glass once for algea, bio bloom white film yes, but not algea. i am now running ProdiBio for 5 days and the corals are loving it. I would say there is no difference as yet I can report from FM to prodi both are equally good at nutrient reduction, but as i do not have room for a reactor I am sticking with prodi. I also hate daily dosing so prodi wins hands down on that score alone :) There is also room to think about mixing and matching products but my tank is way to young to start any fancy reviews like that. Ok back to the tank. I got some awesome corals from ottawa inverts, I am lucky to share the same town as pat so have easy access to his huge coral racks. Pat you need more space!!! Pictures - As you will see below much to many peoples delight the Ai lamp hangers are finished. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4804.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4805.jpg I hope this now meets with everyones approval ;) Here are some tank shots, I apologise now for the quality I am no good at photography at all, but i think you get a good idea how things are coming along. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4796.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4798.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4799.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4801.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4800.jpg I will continue with the profiLux tutorial/review later this week. |
Did you put your dosing pump on the same shelf as the profilux? or somewhere more accessible to the sump? From the pics it looked like your shelf went straight to the door.
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The doser wil go next to the profiLux and holes will be drilled through to accomodate the 1/4 pipes.
I will take pics once installed ;) |
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Thanks ;)
Just added a bottle of live pods to the system, that should liven things up a bit ;) |
Looking awesume so far. The lights look better. What do you think of the Tunze 1073.020 pump so far ? I was thinking of using one for 2 media canisters that I want to hook up, one for carbon & the other for NP Biopellets. Also nice that your doing the profilux set-up in detail. Will you be doing lights, power heads & storm settings etc ?
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Hi
The Pump is silent and I really mean silent, low wattage also. Yep will be reviewing everything, its just time really. I have to make sure I cover all angles and finding the time is not always easy, but I will add another chapter ove the weekend ;) |
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Nice to see some quality woodworking, and quality tools! (General Tablesaw and a Cadex 23g pin nailer) :mrgreen: |
Thanks. I think the cabinet quality speaks for itself ;)
Chris is none heck of a craftsman :) |
So hows the system doing ? Did I read somewhere you're having some cloading issues ? Hope all is well.
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Hi
Tank doing really well, Yep got the good old bio bloom due to running low nutrient from the start, this is very common. The downside it takes weeks to clear but the upside is you start off with no negative bacterial issues. When i say cloudy i am not talking like someone has poured a bowl of cream in the tank, just like a few drops of skimmed milk is in there ;) wife does not notice it, but I do, and yes it bugs the hell out of me being a purist, but patience and it will come round. I picked up a huge center piece powder blue Aco from Ottawa Inverts and also a good sized orange Ecno frag yesterday, pics to follow |
Little update for you
All params are at ultra low nutrient, in hindsight this is not always a wonderful thing as you will see I have a suspected Bio Bloom as mentioned in the post above, the upside is the corals are thriving, and my center piece powder blue acro colony is settling in well. I say bio bloom, it has not been proved, but other than calcium precipitation there is little else the slight cloudy look could be, so its time to sit back enjoy and give it 14 days and then see. Interestingly my redox is a whopping 474mV !! A sign of the low nutrients. One thing i can prove here is that ProdiBio is amazing at single shot nutrient reduction, if you have nutrient issues you really must try this out, it works!! http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4862.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2371.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2370.jpg The profiLux of course is rock solid, it actually has become a huge value having the full set up so I can do much better live support and test things out myself before providing support. More later this week. Dont forget to check out the group buy in the GHL forum under aqua digital ;) |
Little update, not all corals i got this weekend can be seen they are tough cookies to take pics of :(
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2372.jpg The clip is holding Fauna marin wakame, boy does this stuff expand in the water, so far the tang has ignored it as have all other fish :( I will remove it tonight and try a tiny piece tomorrow. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2386.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2383.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2382.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2377.jpg |
Looks Great. So neat and tidy. It's inspiring some changes to my system
J |
Well they are here wahoo fan fare round of applause, go sell the cat to buy them :mrgreen:
The Bubble Magus balling canisters are here so i can now start the GHL doser and balling light review and set up guide so many have asked me for that have GHl dosers. First some pics So here is the new eye candy http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4888.jpg And this is what makes up the balling kit. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4886.jpg So in the picture we have 3 x Bubble Magus 2.5L canisters (also available in 5.0L) ideal for balling mixtures 3 x Fauna marin balling salts, no I am not using cheap salts that I have no clue what has been added to them or not, FM salts are designed for the tank ;) 3 x FM trace B elements, for that all important colouration of the corals 1 x Bubble magus tubing holder, I was amazed at the attention to detail and quality iin such a simple item :D 1 x GHL doser :bounce3: If anyone is interested in balling or especially the containers and tube holders or anything for that matter I talk about here, all Aqua Digital dealers carry it all so drop them or me a line for more info. We can supply any dealer you wish ;) For reading up on this concept here is the manual http://shop.faunamarin.de/media/cont...K-comm_ENG.doc So the next step is set up. Tomorrow I will insert the GHL doser into the cabinet and drill the 8 holes required to run the 1/4 hoses through the shelf, I say 8 as one pump will be used for AWC at 1L a day when i finally get that set up. More to follow tomorrow ;) |
Yup, thats some nice candy. You should always buy extra so you can share you know ;)
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I did - 150 of each size :mrgreen:
2.5L are $59.00 5.0L are $74.00 Tube holders are $29.00 |
I've been thinking about doing the balling method for a bit now, but there seems to be very little journals with progress posted using the full kit. looking forward to what your doing here.
I love how clean those bubble magus containers are too. Makes everything look less like a science project! |
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Forgot to ask, I see you have the new PH probe in your array of probes. How's it working out ? Is it available in stores yet ? I ordered one from Progressive Reef but havent heard anything back yet.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2363.jpg |
Hi
In regards to the balling review, of course this will take some time for anyone to see results and of course it all comes down to "are we seeing results that we would have anyway" So I would suggest look more at the parameter stability, the ease of control over the 3 elements, something you will neve get with 2 part or a ca reactor an then build your own assesment from there. I also would say there is no point following the review if you then go off and buy some bargain bucket salt and hope to see the same results. Simply you wont, so if you are interested in doing balling then ya have to buy into the concept 100%. I have talked to enough people that switched to FM salts and in a month they got stability back and algal issues resolved. This is "my" first tank run with balling so I am going to be interested also ;) THE PROBE Amazing product - rapid response, comes with documentation showing its stats and has not needed calibrating in 6 weeks. The great thing is the price is no different. Talk to PR again about your interest in one, we have a few left from the initial shipment. Does it match a GHL Lab probe? Based on warranty (GHL 6 months) this probe 3 months and that I have GHL probes that are nearly 4 years old and still going great guns, I would say the GHL still holds its own with time against cost, basically paying for itself due to longevity. I of course am going to be really interested to see how this new probe is performing in 12 months. |
The equipment set up.
As you can see below the whole system is set up minus adding the actual elements which I will do tomorrow. GHL 4 stage doser connected to the profilux and plumbed in http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2392.jpg All Pipe work going to the tube holder and coming from the balling containers, the containers come with screw tight fastners for the tube so no risk of one flying off. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2390.jpg Close up of the tube holder, I have been crafty and used spare peri tubing to run through the bubble Magus holder so the pipes are nice and tidy going into the sump. I have also used the more flexible air line as the Calcium line especially can choke up like a vein and is easier to unblock with this pipe. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2391.jpg And 1 x stand back and admire the goodies shot ;) http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2389.jpg Tomorrow I will discuss GHL programming with screen shots and also how to work out initial dose rates. I have cheated and already done this by 5 days of manual pre dosing and measuring of the element depletion per day, so i know already what my system draws, but I will focus on this important step more tomorrow |
looks good, clean and tidy!
how much room do you have to remove the skimmer cup? |
room to remove the skimmer cup = Enough and only just about enough, but its all that is needed
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Dosing/balling set up continued -
Ok here we go the rest of the guide ;) So before we can even start talking about setting up dose rates and anything else we need to program the doser. For slave dosers with the profiLux This is where the profiLux shines above all other controllers, as you know GHL make a slave doser that works in unison with the controller, this gives the unique feature that you can dose in controlled ML as well as timed, this is quite unique to ProfiLux and why all in one solutions really are far better. I am assuming everyone knows how to program the initial state of the doser? Ok here is a basic overview Plug doser with power applied into S1S4 directly (remove digital power bar) Go to socket function outlet Click on program digital power bar/ Doser Set numbering from the last number of your power bar, for example if you have one power bar set as #7, the software will do the rest, follow onscreen prompts and exit. Plug digital power bar back into S1S4 and doser data cable into the second western port on the power bar. Stand Alone dosers You have it more simple ;) Just decide if you want timed or manual mode, then just sit back and wait for me to write up the balling dosing guide part. The slavers ;) read on - Now the fun stuff. I have set my doser to work from S7 to S10 being a 4 pump doser, I am using pumps as follows S7 = DKH set up on timer 2 S8 = Mg set up on timer 3 S9 = Ca set up on timer 4 So once you have programmed the initial state of your doser stay in socket function outlet and decide what timers you wish to use (once not already utilsed obviously). Then edit the sockets accordingly i.e socket 7 = timer 2 as shown here http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1271541919 Repeat the above for all dosers assigning different timers per dosing pump Once done go to one of the assigned timers and decide how you wish the doser to operate. My choice has been manual dosing, the reason for this is I like to have control as to when the dosing events take place (Sa doser users select manual dosing for this also). In the screen shot below you will see for Timer 2 which is pump 1 DKH I have selected manual mode and programmed 6 seperate timed events of 10ml over a 24 hour period, this gives me 60ml over 24 hours. http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...g?t=1271542032 If you look closely the dosing rate I have edited to 50ml/min, the reason for this is to calibrate the doser to actually dose 10ml per timed cycle. The doser factory settings is 60ml/min so why change? Well its all down to what your dosing, what pipe you use etc etc, so the rate will change. How to work out 10ml in one dosing cycle? get yourself a 10ml syringe marked at 10ml and remove the plunger and block the small exit hole. Set the doser up for one event a couple of minutes ahead of your current time. place the tube in the upside down syringe and wait for the timed dosing event to start. Remove the tube and note how much was dosed in this event. Mine dosed 8ml instead on 10ml so i decreased the flow rate to 50ml/min then repeated above, it now doses 10ml in every event. I repeated this for each pump. This completes the equipment set up stage, next step balling salt mixing and setting up initial dosing - |
That looks like a Christian overflow too!
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Are we talking religion or the guy :wink:
The overflow and the tank is all the work of Miracles aquariums in Toronto |
Actually when you adjust the dosing it's much better to run the calibration - it's actually quite simple.
Set up your dosing pump system and all the tubing as it will be when it's running. The run the ml/min calibration. The trick to get it fairly accurate easily is to use a kitchen scale that is accurate to +/- a few grams. This is what I did: 1. Set up whole dosing system including the full length of tubing you're going to use - this is important as the flow rate can vary depending on the length of tubing you're using, and the height of the doser from the containers can also affect the rate at which they pump. 2. Put a container that will hold about 100 ml (empty) on the scale, and tare/zero it. 3. Put the suction side of the pump being calibrated into RO/DI water, and run it untill water comes out the outlet side. 4. Run the calibration menu - pump for 1 minute into the container while the scale weighs how much water is pumped out. Since the density of water at room temperature is about 1 g/ml, the amount pumped onto the scale in grams is the amount in ml the pump pumps in one minute. Easy, and farily accurate. If you're anal (ie, myself) run it three times and get an average value - I found single pumps to not differ run to run by more than 0.7 ml each trial and only by about =/-3 ml across 4 pumps. |
For the stand alone you are 100% right and great advise, for the slave it does not have a calibration option though, you have to do it manually.
Great input and advise thanks ;) |
I would like to now conclude for everyone the balling set up guide, and I think this is the most important part for everyone.
" have all the equipment now what?' Ok so you have downloaded the manual and have added your salts and trace elements, of course if using the 2.5L containers you just halve all quantities. Note - it is imperitive if you are following the ballign method to use the Ultra trace B elements as well. The biggest missconception here is accuracy of the amount of salt to use, the simplest way to explain this worry away is this Question -I added too much salt OOPS! Answer - You mix will be stronger so you will find you will require to dose less per dosing cycle. The opposite of course goes for if you mixed too weak a mixture. So you see no big issue you just adjust your dosing to suit. of course it is advised to try and keep some level of accuracy otherwise everytime you have to make up a fresh batch you would be adjusting your dosing rate to suit. Initial dosing Before you dose one single drop make sure you know your levels of Ca,MG,and DKH. Next step is to dose one element and see how that measured amount effects your systems level after 2 hours. Example - dose 50ml of Ca and then measure who much your calcium rose in two hours from dosing the 50ml amount. if it rose by 50 points you know then 50ml has xx effect on your system. Repeat this for the DKH and Mg. Once you have reached your target values then it will take about a week for you to dial in exactly what your system draws from the elements. You will find you use 4x the amount of DKH than any othr element this is normal, and also due to the fast take up of FM sodium bicarbonate by your corals do not be surprised if you use even more than this, it is a normal and positive outcome. Your target values should be Ca 380-420 Mg 1200-1350 ALK 6.5-8Dkh Salinity 33-35PPT A thorough explanation of initial set up is covered in the guide. Good luck with the system, and you will soon see how great the FM system is and also how amazingly easy the GHL dosers make running such a system |
Update
Photos to follow this weekend. Things are going great, I finally got the ProfiLux wireless, much to do about nothing in regards to my failed attempt at using a D-Link wireless bridge, after spending about 7 hours fighting with the thing to get it connected to itself (nothing to do with profiLux, had not even got that far) I finally got it connected and working, GREAT! so my next step was to get it connected to the profiLux :) Ha no! I did not even get that far, I found the D-Link had a loop back issue that locked up my access point. Lots of phone calls to D-Link Bombay R us support service resulted in a confirmed faulty D-Link bridge :( So long story short, booted it back to when'st it came and moved my access point to the basement and ran through the duct work a Cat5 cable directly from the ProfiLux to the router, wahey!! For free I am now ProfiLux wireless! So how is everything? Well the profiLux as would be expected is bullet proof it is easy to forget the huge features the controller is munching on every day, I do not even consider the complexities of the control it just - well - runs really. This is what profiLux is all about, fit set up forget not worry what might fail or bug out on you, and this is what all of us pay for, rock solid worry free reliability. How many return to base warranty cases do you see here on this forum?? ERM - None! case closed :) The doser - well again it has taken over my system, I do not have to worry about my balling dosing, I check the params once a week after a water change and thats about it really, the doser does its thing and I sit back and enjoy the tank. The only annoying thing is the ProfiLux does not clean the glass, clean out the filter sock or pour me a fine malt whisky when my glass runs out while chilling out watching the tank, I really must speak to matthias (GHL) about built in servant control!! Other dosing, well i am still playing around, all i will say at this point is that I am using ProdiBio for nutrent reduction control, and the rest is Fauna based. I love Prodis dump in the tank and forget for two weeks concept, none of this once a day dosing, the need of some reactor. I will be changing my carbon over to FM Ultra Carb L this weekend from ESV, I have used Carb-L before and think it is far superior in my view. My Ai's are now set to 60% white and 80% blue this is on a ramp up and down, of course ProfiLux has full control of this and I love the cloud effect it really does add an element to the tank and also I believe take the heat off the lamp intensity in a good way. The Bubble magus BM150Pro does what it says on the can really, pulls crud daily even in a Low nutrient enviroment, if you are looking to get a new skimmer seriously get one of these babies, German pumps and highly quality engineering at an affordable price. (contact me if you want one) The corals are doing well, I do want to push the envelope in colour a bit more, getting very impatient! growth is good, I just want to get the colour going, my blue stag colony has amazing vibrant blue tips, I just need to get the body to lighten up, but the tank is new and this will come in time. Will be off to Ottawa inverts for some more sticks and critters this weekend so pics most likely Sunday evening :) (oh great here goes two hours of frustration mounting the new arrivals) |
We need a new FTS on this baby!
|
Well I finally got time last night to take some pictures, noting of course I am as good at photgraphy as my wife is at driving a car (and no she does not have a DL)
So lets start with eye candy shot http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2438.jpg General tank view http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4919.jpg Obscene Stag horn - No I have not cut of Shreks bits! http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4929.jpg Birdsnest colouring up and in front a rather hairy Acro http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4935.jpg This pic really does no justice to the vibrant blue tips on the Stag horn colony, and the polyp extension at night is insane, but this was before lights out http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4928.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4930.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4924.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_2442.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4933.jpg The purple edges on this Monti are really awesome under the Ai's sadly my camera lets me down again here http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4936.jpg http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4925.jpg This used to be boring brown, but have a look at the colour coming out! http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i1...t/IMG_4927.jpg |
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