Yes

the front lable of series one states what sockets are high in rush protected, the series 2 do not haver this wording as all are high in rush.

Also series one have internal fuses, series 2 dont

Hmmm... that was a little harsh.

Way back before there was an Aqua Digital, before there was a RC thread for Profilux, there was a small group of hobbyists that started using the Profilux controller in Canada. Superfudge started a thread on this board and we all got excited and jumped in, based on the excellent customer service and support being provided by Profilux... Colin was one of these people.

While the core unit of the Profilux controler has always been excellent, the power bars were clearly not ready for the 110V market. Through the frustrations and feedback of the original users, Profilux was able to develop a product that was viable for the North American market. I would hope that Matthias appreciates that.

Both my powerbars are series 2 bars that I had replaced when they were under warranty and I haven't had a problem in over a year.

Even if Colin was joking, I don't think his request was out of line at all.

Hmmm I think you are reading words a little too seriously. please re read my last sentance

"Sorry maybe I read your question wrong I apologise if i have but if i read correct then no sorry.."

I stand by our statement also, no company would replace a power bar when there is nothing wrong with it just because a new model has come out, the warranty replacements that happened way back were all done due to a design issue that was addressed within the series one, and as such the series one continued to be produced for another 9 months with the newer series one design.

As it was me that originally highlighted the design issue I sort of had first hand in getting the series 1 up to speed, and took a personal interest in the design being re implemented.

the series 2 was implemented when it became clear that the demand for much higher striking load ballasts were being brought to the market and as such profiLux reacted to accomodate this as well as making the power bar more flexible to peoples long term needs, keeping up with GHL's goal of the product being as future proof as possible

But this is all going over very old ground that was covered so heavily 18 months ago or more just for the sake of one post.

The trouble with the written word in forums or email is there is no emotion so people read words and put their own tone to them, this happens time and time again and it is very difficult to get emotion across

Back to the future as they say

:wink:

OK So the series 1 are what are described in the wiki site. While series 2 I would assume are all 6.3AMP all rush protected?

Thanks again
Jason

No

series 2 are all 200amp YES two hundred amp high in rush protected that means that every single socket can withstand a split second high in rush current surge of up to 200amps protecting it from damage from ballasts that draw huge ampage on striking.

This does not detract from the fact that the total duration load (not striking load) must not exceed more than 15 amps in total on the whole bar, this is in line with your household ring main.

Does this eliminate the need for the Hi amp power boards?

Depends on what you ahve attached to the main power bar in terms of load.

if you are running a series of high wattage MH lighting or large chillers then you are probably getting close to the maximum ampage certified to run on one socket that the whole power bar is plugged into at the wall. This is where the HIGH AMP comes into play and spreads that load across another wall socket.

This is the part so many people forget, the certified load of your wall socket, we could build power bars that have 100 sockets all able to take 20 amp load, but that does not detract from the fact you are restricted by what one single wall socket on your home ring main can handle.

So simple answer, no you dont need the High amp providing you are not exceeding the total ampage of the power bar OR your wall socket.

OK so today was the day to get it all going.
2 small problems I have encountered.
Temp probe always reads 102F This probe is the Larger Black ones
Also the Redox Calibration required a Null plug. What is this and how can I get one.

Thanks
J

102F !!

Make sure you have it in the right port.

The Null plug is always supplied with the ProfiLux EX or Redox expansion always.

This was S/H right?

Yes It was second Hand. I will try and get it from the guy I purchased it from.
Could you tell me what it looks like?
Triple checked the port. It's the lower port on the board

J

Best to email me at sales@aqua-digital.com

it is always hard supporting second hand units and we could be going back and forth for a while on the board.

E-mail Sent

J

Michael, Just wanted to thank you for your support on my Temperature probe issue. Spencer at Progressive Reef hooked me up with a new probe and all is right in the world now.

Thanks Again
Jason

Glad to be assistance and thanks to Spenser at progressive reef in BC for helping you get up and running.

Sorry Michael, Have another one for you

I picked up a new temp probe and it has been working perfectly. Today I added the extention cable to the temp probe.
Without the extension temp was reading 79.4
I followed the extension cable instruction as per the latest operator instructions.
1)entered the extension mode without the extesion cable attached (probe was in the tank in the same spot it would be when the cable gets added)
2)press return and wait
3) controller say Change
4) add the extension cable and press return
5) wait and then save
My temp was then reading 74.2
in order to correct this I calibrated the sensor with the extension cable and the temp control returned to 79.5

Have I performed the procedure incorrectly?

Thanks
Jason

Hi

You need to add the cable first as you found I think from reading your thread

Hope all clear now :)

Um that is not how the instructions read.
The controller prompts you to change/add the cable

J

I will ask Matthias to change it

I assume the Extension mode measures the temp and the resistance in the cable before you add the extension. Then through the mode you tell the unit you just added the extension and it measures again. then calculates the difference and increases the signal voltage to compensate.

OK, I'll wait for Matthias

Thanks

Hi Michael

I have a bit of a problem I was having problems with the software on my lap top so I so I loaded up the new 4.0 version well now I cant connect to the controller it tells me I need a lower version of the software. I can not find any where to download a lower version of the software.

thanks for your time

Doug

To go from 3.08 firmware to 4.0 you must do the following

Install firmware version 4.0 first

then

Install software version 4.0

Never do the other way round.

You also can not run version 4.0 software without loading the firmware either

yah But I goofed and installed the software first as I was having problems with the 3.8 software I need to get the 3.8 version of the software back so I can do the upgrade but I cant find any place to download it

CLICK THE CRAB :wink:

Oh man I looked there and did find it but I guess I didnt look close enough because I found it now. I guess I should of put my glasses on sooner

Thanks again

Doug

I am having problems getting my float valves to work. I have two valves on a splitter and the computer recognizes that I have two of them (as when I disconnect them it acts differently). But I cannot get the computer to realize the float is floating (ie tank is full), it will continue to run untill I get a time out alarm.

I have tried it with only one float and no splitter, the other with no splitter, both with the splitter. Plugging one in and resetting the computer then trying - all the same result, it will not recognize when it the valve is floating (ie when to shut off the pump). I recently had one of the valves replaced under warranty (through progressive reef). Both of the valves are clean.

I also tried upgrading to Firmware 4.04 and software 4.0.3.0 hoping that would solve things, no to no avail.

Any suggestions?

Hi

Does it work when plugged in independantly

No, it recognizes that only one valve is plugged in, but it will not register that it is 'full' and switch off.

What is your delay setting time at?

It was 2 seconds, but I moved it to 0 seconds while I was trying them.

Pop it into Spensor at PG ;)

The Sensors or the computer unit?

The sensor ;)

Todd
Bring it by we can plug into our unit and check it out and review the settings against ours

Cheers

Thanks Joel, I'll try to swing by on Saturday with the unit and the sensors.

Hi there,

I've been having a bit of trouble with the switching on my profilux plus II. What happens is sometimes when I hit ESC to start the feeding pause, when the timer runs out and it turns the pumps back on I get a little bit of a flicker where everything turns off for a second and then starts right back up. Not the end of the world but it's annoying and usually scares the crap out of the fish. Sometimes it will also happen if I just pull a plug out of the socket (cleaning a powerhead) and again if I pop the plug back in. These little episodes don't happen every time, maybe 30-50% of the time.

As far as set up goes, I recieved the profilux package with the 4 way analog bar in June 2007 and the digital powerbar a short while after (a month or so I think) I'm running firmware 4.03. I have the controller on a circuit by itself with some other tank related stuff (tunze wavebox and 6055) that is NOT GFI protected, the 2 powerbars are on a GFI protected circuit. The loading of the powerbars is as follows...
Analog: 1 Tunze 6045 (8 watts) 1 Koralia 4 (9 watts), 1 Hydor Heater (400 watts)

Digital: 2x250 watt metal Halide ballasts (340 watts each according to Sanjay's website so 680 watts) 1 T5HO ballst powering 2x54 watt lamps (guessing 120 watts?), 1xQuiet one 3000 pump (40 watts), 1x Vertex skimmer (35 watts) and 1x 2 watt moonlight (2 watts)

Also, it's worth mentioning that I never feed until after the halides have turned off or before they come on.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Hi

this is electrical interferance probably due to a 110V line close either to the profiLux or the data lead from the digital power bar or analogue bar.

Some step by step trial and error cable moving should get rid of this. If not please email me at sales@aqua-digital.com for further direct and fast support

Could you elaborate a little on sources of interference and ideal positioning of components relative to each other? Since the problem is intermittent, trial and error could be a very lengthy process. Especially if I don't know what exactly I'm looking for.

Thanks for the quick response!

Hiya
Just keeping 110V away from the PII and PII control cables and any lighting units also

when you reference 110v, I'm assuming you're talking about main power supplies? Sorry, I'm kind of electrically retarded. What sort of distances are too close?

Thanks

email me

sales@aqua-digital.com

:wink: