I've been warned by the Deltec folks not to run this reactor 24/7, let alone run it without a controller. But I do have a solenoid on the co2 regulator and since I have an Aquatronica controller it only makes sense to control the solenoid. I figure I can get by without constantly cycling it by increasing the delta parameters i.e. turn it on when pH exceeds 6.5, turn it off when it drops below 6.1. That should take care of it.

I also plan on using the AQT to control the CA reactor. Rather than set a large range for the on/off pH limits...you should be able to set tighter limits. You should be able to control how often the solenoid cycles by adjusting the bubble count.

The bubble count will control the speed that the solenoid/controller can bring the pH down. If the bubble count is high, the reactor will react rapidly and the controller will shut the CO2 down fast.

The flow through rate will control how fast the pH rises back up again...(as well as the amount of Ca/Alk that you are adding)

You get the bubble count (dropping the pH) equal to the flow through (raising the pH)...and the controller won't do anything...except keep control of the entire situation, which is exactly what we want it to be doing.

What's different about the Deltec reactors that the recommendation is to not run them 24/7?

Apparently they pump out water at an 80+dKh range and can risk a crash. I'm not that familiar with ca reactors so I'm only repeating what I've heard. It seems other brands of reactors put out a 60dkh flow and lower.

The best I have gotten out of my home made reactor is 61 dkh.

That is using coral sand and a ph of 6.3.

What ph and what media does Deltec use to get 80 dkh?????:question:



Of course when I measured 61 dkh I had no real idea how accurate it was, but it was Salifert.

I see, interesting. Yeah, like littlesilvermax, I too am curious what pH recommendation and media is used on the Deltecs.

With the Schuran reactors I think the recommendation is to use a pH in the 5's :eek: (I could be wrong, it's been a while since I read up on those) and a much larger grained crushed coral as media. Perhaps Deltec's are like this as well. I know Deltec uses the term "fluidized" a lot when describing their reactors and I thought this meant they use an upflow instead of downflow through the media.

Deltec recommends using Rowlith C+ in their reactors. The pH should be between 6.1 and 6.5. Here's a thread on RC where the dude from Deltec refers to the 80dkh output. And here's the Delte site where it mentions the same thing. When I get mine going I'll measure it and get back to you. I doubt that they're saying that everyone will achieve that level, rather they are saying it's possible and that is one reason to monitor the output closely.

Here's another link referring to this output, and a quote...

"...but that fluidized design on the deltec can give you output readings of over 80dKH!!! Ive seen it. They are John Turner's fave as well (co-founder of ORA and RAS), and he uses them on many of his installs for this reason. No other reactor does a better job of getting the calcium to the reef. You would be lucky to get 2/3 the output with some other brand."

One day I'd like to see one of these reactors in person, from the itty-bitty pics you usually see of them I can't tell what they're doing differently. But anyhow they sound like pretty nice units.

They'll attach to the bottom, I wonder if they can bore into starboard at all. Even ones that sit in the sand usually are holding on to some kind of rock or shell, to protect the opening.

Mine did not really bore into the starboard, but they definitely attahced quite strongly to it.

I don't know why this would be but it seems to me that they don't bore into rock in our tanks, just attach. But in the wild they are most definitely enveloped in the rock. I should try to dig up some pictures I have of them on the GBR when I was there a few years back. It's pretty bizarre looking just seeing the mantles out on the reef, no clam shells visible at all.

I think that the rocks actually "grow" around them.

Here's a shot taken in Bora Bora two years ago.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...os/119_22A.jpg

Cool shot. Wow Bora-Bora, I'd love to get there some day. Been a dream destination for most of my adult life.

Hi Tony

Schuran also recommend a pH of 6.5. H&S and Schuran are using the same media for the Ca reactor and it does seem to be working really fine.

I had previously a Deltec PF600S for my 180G tank and it was running 24/7, pH at 6.5 on a controller and i had a very stable water of 450 CA and Alk at around 11.

For my next tank, i will be using the Schuran Jetstream 2 and i hope it will work as good as the Deltec. Reason not going with a Deltec for my next tank is that i am not sure the PF600S will be able to keep up my Ca and alk over my 600G system. Probably the PF1001 but its too big to put under my stand.

It's all operational now and falling into place. I had a bit of an accident with the solenoids on my top-off leaking when shut off... well not leaking, but letting water get through. So my kalk was running all night and now my alkalinity is a little high. It's dropping with w/c and I lowered the pH threshold for the controller to open the solenoid on the kalk vs. fresh water.

I also got the ca reactor going and broke down & bought a peristaltic pump to feed it. Much, much easier then fiddling with ball valves and now I have complete & accurate control. I think in the long term this is the way to go.

I noticed that as my lights came up to full power (they're new bulbs so I used the "New" function to slowly bring them up from 75% to 100% over a couple of weeks) that my tank temp is getting to 82ºF in the daytime. I decided that that was too high and tried a simple fix to see if it would work. I got two 4" fans and mounted them on the side of the stand that isn't visible, pointed over the sump. The controller turns them on whenever the tank temp gets over 79ºF. It's now 1:00pm and normally the tank temp is around 81ºF but the fans are keeping it low and the temp is currently sitting at 78.9ºF. So that worked great.

Here's a current pic with all of the equipment in place. I managed to squeeze the 10lb co2 tank in the middle of the mess. Even with it that packed I can easily remove the skimmer cup and any piece can be removed pretty simply by taking off the side MDF board. It looks tight but it all seems to fit as if it were planned that way. I need a proper base for the kalk mixer though. An acrylic stand about 5"Lx5"Wx10"T would be ideal.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0588.jpg

Someone asked if I would identify what is in this space so I numbered it here:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0589.jpg

#1 - Deltec AP851 protein skimmer
#2 - Ozone equipment mounted on a board with magnets stuck to stand - Ozotech Poseidon, dryer & Luft air pump
#3 - MTC Ozone reactor
#4 - Co2 tank & m[sup]3[/sup] regulator
#5 - Deltec PF601S calcium reactor
#6 - Deltec KM500 kalkwasser mixer
#7 - MTC SR7 Carbon water filter (for ozone output)
#8 - Cole Parmer Masterflex peristaltic pump
#8a - John Guest valved previously used for ca reactor

i get a kick out of that mag drive ox every time i see it :) aslo quite the nasty look skimmate...ick

That's a day's worth of skimmate. It's a pretty good skimmer so far I'd say. I'm liking it and liking the direct feed from my tank overflow.

The tank is doing fine. I'm just getting the calcium & alk/hardness to where I like it and then the ca reactor & kalk mixer should keep it there. Everything is growing pretty good and coloring up. The rocks are still pretty green and I'm seeing algae tufts in a few places but overall it's maturing. I'm finding it tricky to get the right amount of flow given the soft corals I've got and the SPS I'm adding. It's definitely a bit of a balancing act. I can see why many people go all hard or soft. I've now got a few more fish in there... Yellow Tang, Sailfin Tang, 2 Maroon Clowns, Powder Brown Tang & Copperband Butterfly. Here's some pics as of today...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0634.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0635.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0636.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...k/DSCN0637.jpg

VERY nice. :)

how do you keep the panels on the stand with rare earth magnets? could you explain more, thx

I used a Forstner bit to countersink a hole in the MDF board. Then I put a bit of wood glue in the hole and dropped a magnet in the hole. The stand structure is steel so the boards stick to the steel very easily. The Forstner bit & magnets are available at Lee Valley.