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little off topic
sorry Colin for being a little off topic but Doug, I don't clean normal garbage.... the garbage that I clean are "special".
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Arint forums great a conversation can go from hi tech controlers to Garbage HEHE
well now back to controlers |
Ok I used some translation software to find out the lower BNC connector (the one that sticks out) on the Redox/Cond is for the conductivity just incase someone else is scratching there head on this one
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i was wondering about that. thanks for the info buddy, i hadnt look into it yet because i have not hooked it up yet.now your next and most important task is to figure out how to get my WLAN to work. just kidding. i'm assuming that i am stuck figuring it out on my own because there is no response from anyone that supplies the unit
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Have you tried emailing Jason at proline it might take a couple of days as it is the holiday season but he has responded to all my emails it is hard to diagnose WLAN problems with out being there
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Hi guys
Sorry for the late response.We are closed till Jan 3rd &I was out of town for a few days. Colin would you please explain how far you are with the w-lan set up & what seems to be the difficulty? Doug ,how are you making out ,everything set up already? Did you figure out the levelsensor holder?:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: |
Need some help with your Profilux?
Just got a hint that you may need some help to setting up your Profilux Controller. I have it in operation with WLAN and other accessories and it works fine for me.
You can also visit my homepage (german language but you will get the picture anyway). Do not hesitate to contact me in case you have questions or visit also the www.aqua-it.de forum an place your questions in english there. cheers big blue |
English Forum on www.aqua-it.de
Please be informed that we just opened a english speaking forum section to give you more Profilux support in your own language.
BTW: do not ask me to much about saltwater Aquariums, I am more on the freshwater-side. But swimming with sharks is quite thrilling (longimanus 2.5m in the red sea) |
well i had the unit connected to the computer with the serial cable. i finally figured out how to setup my wireless network to accept computer to computer access in order to connect to the controller, i then followed the wlan/lan tutorial from the disc on all the steps, after that i setup the redirector. i assigned ip address and set the port to 10002. on the controller under communication i assigned the unit to use the router function, serial 2/WLAN and default to WLAN. when i disconnect the serial cable and try to then use the program to connect it cannot find the controller. i tried using a hyper terminal on computer and it does not locate the unit. i truly have no idea where to start from here.i hope this is enough info
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WLAN Tutorial
Sometimes it is a little difficult to make the WLAN settings, as your card has to be properly integrated in your home network (where you may have securtiy settings). So you do not want to loose connection during the setup and later end up with your card not found in your network because your router would not accept it.
Please find my tutorial as I did it step by step PDF (in german/english) download from my homepage Let me know if you find additional steps who are not covered in the tutorial. |
thanks for the reply big blue. is there a way to translate your page?
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Hi Colin,
This might help little http://babelfish.altavista.com/translate.dyn |
thanks denis but i feel kind of stupid now because i looked at the pdf again and it is already translated into english at the end of each german sentence.
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Update WLAN settings including higher baud rate settings
I made a update of my tutorial including how you can speed up your WLAN card (factory setting 9600 baud) to the maximum speed of your network. Also I include one step who is important for the first setup of your card.
Sometimes it is a little difficult to make the WLAN settings, as your card has to be properly integrated in your home network (where you may have securtiy settings). So you do not want to loose connection during the setup and later end up with your card not found in your network because your router would not accept it. Please find my tutorial as I did it step by step PDF (in german/english) download from my homepage Let me know if you find additional steps who are not covered in the tutorial. |
Hi All!
My name is Matthias, i am leading devloper (and BTW boss) of GHL. Because we have had vacation the last days i could not response earlier. However i'll try to give the best support here, let's start. @niloc These points are not correct: - you assigned the port to 10002 - but as in the tutorial mentioned it must be 10001 (and please set the checkbox "Raw Data") - you set the WLAN to default - by doing this all prevoius WLAN settings are lost, please do the settings with deviceinstaller again. The setting WLAN to defaults should only be done if there had been made confusing settings and it is not possible to establish a connection (eg setting WPA password and forgetting this) - please disable the router function - this is only useful if you connect a second ProfiLux to your current device - hyperterminal can't be used to establish a connection and to alter settings I think that's it. Please let me know if you need further assistance. @big blue Thank you for coming to this forum and giving support @All I am glad (and proud) our ProfiLux now is available in North America - thanks to Jason and his staff - I hope you will enjoy your new aquariumcomputer! Greetings |
Welcome to the Forum Matthias!
It is great to see customer support direct from the manufacturer. |
awesome, thank you guys very much, sounds like i did everything wrong. thanks mathias and big blue i'll try that.
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Profilux Support Forum
Colin, you are welcome, was not a big work for me to translate it. I made the manual because it took me the last time also some hours until I figured out how to get the WLAN card into my network. But just to give everybody here the right impression, it is not the Profilux who is the hard part to set up; it is the WLAN and Router of the home-network.
Please be informed that there is already a large potential of know-how related to the Profilux controller in the www.aqua-it.de forum and you are welcome to post your questions there in the English section. There are a lot of other Profilux users who will answer your questions much faster than here where we found your questions only with a hint of Matthias. Regards big blue BTW to the staff of this forum: it is not my intention to draw away your users here. |
thanks for the manual big blue but when i go into device/installer it does not locate any lantronix device. and if does locate one after about 15 searches it will lose the connection during setup.
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Jason
I hope you had a good hoilday season. I Now have every thing set up except the leval sensor I did figure out the sensor holder though. Did you see my post asking about the power bar? I will recap just incase One of the out lets on one of the power bars seams to stick on some times the indicator LED goes out but there is still power to the outlet but only on this one outlet it dosent do it every time but once every 3 or 4 times any Ideas I have triple checked my programing and ir looks fine plus it dosent do it every time this is a head scracher. Now on to something completely differant (little Monty Python referance LOL) Do you have any of the propeler controlers? I bought the 5 fan propeler breeze just need the controler Later Doug |
no havent got it yet, but i'm going to have to i think. these 400w's really heat the tank
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Im pretty sure its in the settings somewhere Doug.
Heres a couple thoughts, I have to reference them to my controller yet to be sure..but have to do that yet. -You may have set this as "permanent" outlet. -setting the number of days..i think this was correct when you where explaining this to me..but wanted to throw it out there. -im unsure but also check the dimming curve settings, if they have been accidentally assigned to an outlet this can also influence the outlets, aswell if "automatic operation" has been enabled. this was a source of my initial trouble. -Set for filter...this may have been a standard factory setting for that outlet or accidentally assigned...this will remain permanently on, im unsure if the timer only influences the LED in that case. Anyways...i hope something will come up here. Marc. |
how do you put halides on a timer. all the manual talks about is dimmable lighting. i've selected an outlet to be set for lighting but i cant figure out how to put it on a timer without dimming
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Hi,
@niloc16: If you are following exactly the tutorials hints it should be possible to establish the connection. Till now we have several dozens of WLAN-Users, anyone got it running. I wonder why you had connection with DeviceInstaller as mentioned in earlier posts - but now it seems DeviceInstaller does not find the device? Important (this is mentioned in the tutorial): 1. The first connection (to do initial settings) must be done directly in any case, that means to establish an ad-hoc connection with the WLAN of your notebook, NOT with WLAN of a router or access point!! Then, if available, disconnect the LAN-interface of your notebook!! If there are several network interfaces available it could be possible that DeviceInstaller accesses the wrong one to search the PLM-WLAN. 2. Maybe you did some settings to the PLM-WLAN with the result it can't be found by your notebooks WLAN - in this case do the Reset WLAN to default 3. It is possible that another WLAN-device (router, another PC, ...) disturbes direct connection of PLM-WLAN to your notebooks WLAN -> deactivate any other WLAN-device!! 4.Firewall - sometimes a problem because DeviceInstaller must send broadcast messages to find any PLM-WLAN. Just deactivate the firewall for initial configuration! After following these points DeviceInstaller should find the PLM-WLAN. If not - it may be possible that your notebooks WLAN-device is not compatible to PLM-WLAN. But - why did you have a connection before this? @bullit67: I don't think this is a programming problem. When the LED is off the socket MUST be powerless. LED and switching relay are directly connected. And it seems your LED switches according to your programming. Did you connect a heavy inductive load to this outlet (eg metal halide lamp)? In this case the fuse can't protect against damages and it might be possible that the relay has been damaged - then the contacts are not able to disconnect safely. You can test this: When it again happens that the LED is off (LED off means control signal coming from ProfiLux is shut off) and the socket has power just knock onto the power bar. Do the contacts open? And: Use another socket for the same task - does the socket power now follow your programming? Good luck! Matthias |
Hi,
again @niloc16: There are two ways to switch non-dimmable lamps programmatically. 1. Program a clock timer and assign the function clock timer to the socket 2. Program a dimming curve (of course knowing we don't have a dimmable unit) and only program 0% and 100% dimming points with shortest dimming duration (5mins). Then assign the lighting function to the socket. Comment: The new firmware 3.00, released in some days, will differentiate between dimmable and non-dimmable lamps. Then the programming for non-dimmable lamps will be the same as for the clock timers. Another firmware extention will be the temperature dependend shut off for non-dimmable lamps (with delay for metal halides). And some more new features. Matthias |
thanks matthias, i got my lighting figured out and timed. i calibrated and connected all my probes tonight, i'm suspecting i have the conductivity and redox probes swapped at the connectors because the tank reading for redox is 50ms and conductivity is 0. there was a post on here stating the conductivity connector went on the the post that sticks out of the card and i swore i connected it there but tomorrow i'll have to try again.
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Please connect the redox probe to the upper BNC-plug and the cond. probe to the lower, outstanding plug.
You wrote "reading for redox is 50ms" - this is not possible, even if the probes would be swapped. ProfiLux does not mix units and information. ProfiLux displays for example "Redx1 100mV" OR "Cond1 50mS" but no mixture. I am rather sure - i programmed the firmware. And: You would have recognized swapping of probes while calibrating...it is suspicious when the display does not show different values (the ADC-Value)for the two calibration points. I am very sure we will get your complete system running next time! Greetings |
Are you looking for your WLAN card in the right IP range?
@ niloc16: "when i go into device/installer it does not locate any lantronix device. and if does locate one after about 15 searches it will lose the connection during setup."
did you download the newest version of my tutorial as I wrote you? Follow again page 1 and 2 so you will see the card. Check if the device installer is really using the correct network as explained on top of page 3. With this methode you will for sure find the WLAN card. I had the same problems when I was reprograming my card after I did the initial setup. After soft or hardreset of the WLAN card, the card has a total different range of IP as it had initally when you got it from fractory. This has to do with Windows and we all had to learn this the hard way as you do now. We where looking at the first IP the WLAN card had, but it was not there. Only when you let your PC aquire automatically a new IP from your WLAN card by using DHCP the WLAN will tell you in witch IP range it is now hiding. But during doing this you must make sure that no other network (like your router or your LAN) is disturbing this process. |
thanks Matthias
the only thing that has been hooked up to this outlet is my Power compacts the metal halids are connected to the other power bar and have not had any trouble with that one I will try knocking on it next time it dose this is there any way I can fix it if this is the problem Thanks Doug |
Update
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thanks big blue. question for you. i have two computers at home, one connected to the modem/wireless router hard wired and the other computer is connected wirelessly to this unit. i have been trying to connect to the controller with the computer that is wireless, is this right or should i be using the computer that is hardwired to the router?
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hi niloc16
in any case you must establish the connection directly (ad hoc) for the initial settings! Please use the wireless computer for configuring with Deviceinstaller and shut off the router while this procedure, maybe he would disturb this process! Please tell me when you got access to the PLM-WLAN, than i will go on with support and tell you what to do next. And don't forget: - assign a static IP to your wireless notebook before searching the device with DeviceInstaller - if not allready done: Reset the WLAN settings in Profilux to defaults |
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the original link to the German-Support Forum for Profilux is http://forum.aqua-it.de. We have a new English section for Profilux Customers in Canada/USA and near 2000 Postings about Profilux in german. The English section is moderate by Matthias Gross (Manufacturer) and Big Blue... |
just tonight i had the same problem as bullit67, my halide would not shut off. the led is out but there is still power my wife had to unplug it to get it to go off. i dont understand why a heavy load would effect the relay system if the bar is rated for 1500w. it is too late now to bang on the power bar to see if it will work but i'll try in the morning.
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Hi niloc,
bullit67 wrote he did NOT connect metal halide lamps to the socket which seems to make trouble. To your case The powerbars are even designed for 15A switching current. The relays are applicable for 250/16A. The problem is the high so called inrush-current of inductive loads (here are the coils of your ballast inductive). At the moment of switching on the metal halide we have a current of up to 150A for some miliseconds! This current peak is to short to blow the fuse (otherwise your housefuse would also blow) but in some cases long enough to damage the relays. This problem is always given with switching coils (eg ballasts for metal) and there are these solutions: - use of an inrush current limiter - spread the load to several sockets (maybe you connected some lamps to one socket?) - use of an digital electronic ballast. (These electronic ballasts are standard in our metal halide lamps) I know that other manufacturers of switchable powerbars have these problems too. Some solved it by the use of electronic switches. But these have the disadvantage that the can't shut off small loads (eg valves). Others solved it using more sensitive fuses - here we have the problem that higher non inductive loads can't be driven either. And could you please give me the exact watts for metal halide lamps you connected to the socket? Maybe you have the model/producer of your lamp/ballast? Greetings Matthias |
matthias,
i only have one metal halide lamp connected to this power bar. it is a 400w lumen max2 reflector with and aquaconnect 14k bulb and a 400w icecap electronic ballast. the other bar i have has 2 of these same units on it but are programmed to come on 1 minute apart from each to reduce the large load all at once on the power bar. colin |
Hi Matthias
The ballast colin is using is the same ballast we had on the fixtures @ MACNA so they are a bit different than your european version of electronic ballast:mrgreen: :wink: There will be a intial start up surge ,with most these ballast. Colin how is the W-LAN working for you? |
the WLAN is not working, i have not attempted installing it in about a week. i was getting extrememly frustrated so i left if for a bit and actually played with the controller, got it setup in the tank finally. but possibly this week i may try again. matthias and bigblue have given some ideas to try so i'll try that. by the sounds of it my issue is my wireless network and since i've only used the wireless internet for about 3 months i'm pretty inexperienced in troubleshooting and setting up the network.
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