Once you shorten the depth of the pipe outlets, your going to be surprised at how fast it picks the siphon back up :)

The most likely reason that the air was staying trapped was because there wasn't enough velocity to pull the air pocket back into the pipe. When you shorten the outlets in the sump, that problem would go away. Try blocking off that little hole you drilled and see what happens :) after your fixes



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Beotch!

Before throttling down, my Hammerhead sees probably max 17' head. That would be 3600 GPH, and even at 20' of head that is 3000 GPH. No wonder it overflowed the first time I tried it. I am at about 900 GPH now, so throttled down to 25-30% of max.

I think I can't get past 900 GPH because the air will not purge fast enough. My drains are about 3-4" under.

I only have about 1.25 inches from the top of the overflow box (about normal water level when all is balanced), until it flows out of the tank onto the floor. So not much time to fill the box, and purge. Maybe that is part of the problem.

Also, I read that when the drains are too deep in the sump, it takes longer to purge.

You are 6" under, and at 80% of full throttle, you must be flowing way more than 1000GPH. I know the system is supposed to be good to 2000GPH, but i can't get close to that.

So you drilled a hole in the elbow inside overflow box. You mean in the 90 elbow? Is it submerged when it's running? Because otherwise would't it suck in air and break the siphon?

Tom

Well, after talking to Jeff at J&L, a knowledgeable guy I trust at a LFS here, I decided to go with one big sump, and some partitions they sell to divide the sump into sections for fuge etc. But water flows through them. Sump is 72*30*24, an old acrylic tank.

The tank bulges a lot, so it’s tough to cement in baffles to create a stable section where the water level stays the same. But I can see how useful that would be. I have all the materials, may have to try that.

Tom

Bean has posted pretty specifically several times in his thread at RC that this system won't work with horizontal runs. He hasn't offered any thoughts on a solution for horizontal runs, he's just said if you've got horizontal runs, you're not using his system so he can't help.

Most of the problems people have written about are not with flooding, but with noise. The issue there is that the open channel stops being an open channel if it's not pretty much vertical. The theory of operation is that the water in the open channel clings to the sides of the pipe as it washes down to the sump, but sharp bends and/or horizontal runs wreck that effect.

I'm just about to test my own basement sump beananimal, and I've unavoidably got a couple of 22.5 degree bends in my open channel. I am hoping that it will work without issues...

So, I bought the big hammerhead in order to both feed the DT, and to tee off the return line to feed a fuge, and possibly a carbon Reactor, and a UV unit. I can see that would make dialing in the system very very tricky.

I have the tee in there, shut off for now with a TUBV.

May have to just feed the fuge off this, and nothing else.

molotov, those 1" gate valves aren't too pricey. I am finding it very usefull to mark the valve with a magic marker, and turn 1/8 or so at a time, on both the pump return and the drain. I had planned on using the TUBV only on the fuge, but another gate valve will definitely go in there.

Tom

I had read that.

I have managed to make my system go dead silent at the DT end. Not sure what it's like 1/2 way along.

I just want to make it flow a bit more than 900 GPH, and be able to restart without my assistance. Also, I think those horizontal sections makes the system take a lot longer to purge air, and to find it's equilibrium.

I'm sure yours will be fine with a couple 22.5 bends.

Tom

please forgive my ignorance but......whats the advantage of the Bean overflow over the Herbie?......Ive never used one, nor do I think Ive ever seen one being used on anybodies system that Ive seen.....seems like quite a lot of extra expense (two gate valves and three bulkheads versus one gate and two bulkheads) and fiddling around with the Bean......

Über quite. Absolutely no chance of flood tank. Lol well. Once it's running.

With the Bean Animal, the 2nd and 3rd valves are only there to completely isolate those lines during maintenance.
The advantage over a Herbie is thus;

The first line takes full flow as it's completely submerged.

The second, open channel line (with the air line) may take some overage from the first, but has air introduced into it, so it takes no time to handle the overage - there is no purging. When the overflow rises enough to block the end of the air line, the second now becomes full flow.

The third line is there as a last resort/backup.

ok.....but a Herbie does all that with two drains.....no siphon, no air line etc, etc.....