Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board - Cracked crossbrace

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- - Cracked crossbrace (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82489)

I drained 1/2 the water out and dismantling my rock so that everything will still be underwater.

Called Dave@Concept and he said he will be able to take out both cross braces and redo 3-4" eurobrace hopefully Monday or Tuesday.

Fingers crossed that everything will be fine. Who wouldve thought something so small be so serious!

Heres my tank a few days ago at 2 months old.
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...c/IMG_8942.jpg

After tear down :cry:
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...IMG_0518-1.jpg

glad you caught it in time woulda hated to see that crack worse yu wil enjoy he euro bracing thats what ill be doing and at least you have a pic to help re aquascape again.

light didnt show up ths morning hopefully its on the bus tonight for pick up in the am. good luck with it all

That was a really nice scape. Here's your chance to improve I guess. You'll never get the same thing twice lol. Good luck with the fix you're in good hands.

Honestly I would wager the center brace is not needed, many tank builders know little regarding what's actually needed for structural integrity and those "center braces" are often just scraps put in to support lids and not actually even put in for structure. If you want send me the glass thickness of the front pane and the thickness and width of the euro brace and I can tell you if the center braces are needed.

Now I am starting to get crossbrace cold feet/paranoia :question:

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclesalty (Post 676001)

Now I am starting to get crossbrace cold feet/paranoia :question:

dont set halides on glass while turned on
besides you will have led's so unless you are dancing on your bracing bud you will be ok. halides have been known to overheat bracing and cracking.

and sphelps his main support is the cross bracing the "euro bracing" really isnt as much as a level surface that they silicone the trim to to keep it level and in between the cross braces and is only 1"1/2 wide and would shatter in an instant. it would have to be 3" or greater to have any structural signifigance but if he re does teh whole tank 3 to 4 " all around he should never have to worry again of halides heating the cross bracing

Quote:

Originally Posted by lockrookie (Post 676011)

I guess I could fill it up with RO waste water and see how it goes. Yes you are right my LED's give off nothing for heat. The one downfall with Euro bracing on mine is that it would cover a good portion of the overflow and my type of overflow is a "priority" must have for me!

you have nothing to worry about. in either case. your good to go. i hve to takemy tank apart anyways i bought itwith a huge crack in it and it must be rebuilt thus why im going euro brace.

btw jameswhen you read all this ask dave how much tonotch the onne euro brace where the overflow is to give you more room for the overflow

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 675952)

Glass thickness is 1/2" I believe, eurobrace is also 1/2" thick and 1.5" wide on the front and back pane and about 2.5" on the sides.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lockrookie (Post 676092)

btw jameswhen you read all this ask dave how much tonotch the onne euro brace where the overflow is to give you more room for the overflow

I will, thanks. I never thought about that. Kicking myself for not thinking about the glass cracking to heat.

My dad suggested I take the black trim off, clamp the tank, remove the broken crossbrace, then silicone a new piece in its place. Does this sound feasible? Its about 10x cheaper than getting a shop to redo the whole eurobrace. He also said he would rather not compromise the tank structure further by removing both crossbraces and redoing the eurobrace.

Thoughts? Thanks again everyone, the replies have been very affirming.

Quote:

Originally Posted by -=James=- (Post 676101)

Glass thickness is 1/2" I believe, eurobrace is also 1/2" thick and 1.5" wide on the front and back pane and about 2.5" on the sides.

I will, thanks. I never thought about that. Kicking myself for not thinking about the glass cracking to heat.

My dad suggested I take the black trim off, clamp the tank, remove the broken crossbrace, then silicone a new piece in its place. Does this sound feasible? Its about 10x cheaper than getting a shop to redo the whole eurobrace. He also said he would rather not compromise the tank structure further by removing both crossbraces and redoing the eurobrace.

Thoughts? Thanks again everyone, the replies have been very affirming.

sounds very feasable and definately cheaper. as you wont be setting lights on the bracing again