Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board - Ryans 240 gallon tank.

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- - Ryans 240 gallon tank. (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=65283)

looking food. what the heck am I smoking?

Ok I finally fixed the picture problem. lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skimmer King (Post 534265)

just hook up a float valve to the tub and then your ro/di will stop when the float valve is topped off.

I was thinking of getting a float valve but i have been filling up these tubs for a while now and 3 and a half hours is pretty much perfect and the timer was only 10 bucks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 534266)

One thing I notice when I do my weekly manual topup of my reservoir...there is TDS creep every single time. That is weekly. I can also turn the ro/di off for 10 minutes and still get creep.

So what I do is bypass the DI resin for a minute or two until the TDS after the membrane is 3 or less. then I run it through the resin and into wherever I want good water. This saves your resin from a constant butt kicking.

In my opinion doing manual fills in this way will allow your media to go much further. Not that you asked for my opinion but...:biggrin:

Fish room's looking food btw!

That is a good idea I have noticed that whenever i turn on my rodi without a brand new di it always starts at like 5ppm then goes down to 0ppm.

I can't quite follow your RO/DI plumbing, but tell me you do not have your DI before the membrane.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hillegom (Post 534471)

I can't quite follow your RO/DI plumbing, but tell me you do not have your DI before the membrane.

haha no. lol. I attemped to make a paint drawing but it failed badly. lol the water comes from the one sediment filter on the right unit then into the sediment filter on the left unit. Then i took the line from the ro and ran it to the di on the right unit then back to the left one so that the inline tds meter still works. I dont know if this description is better then my drawing or not but whatever I could always attempt the drawing again. :biggrin:

Ok i made another drawing just in case my description wasnt good enough. It kinda looks like my ro out is waste water but it isnt I just took the line the one di and brought it to the other. The waste line goes out the window.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...drawingpic.png

Its starting to make more sense now. How does the membrane tie in?

Quote:

Originally Posted by hillegom (Post 534512)

Its starting to make more sense now. How does the membrane tie in?

This is how the membrane ties in.
http://i969.photobucket.com/albums/a...rawingpic2.png

I have the same Vertex RO/DI unit and I notice your middle chamber also has air in it. While its running have you ever bleed(loosen the clear canister then retighten) the air out and notice how much better it runs ? I find the booster pump cycles on and off lots untill I bleed the air out and also my TDS readings will also fall. I'm sure that it is not normal for the air to be in there, if the unit is sealed properly where would it come from, what do you think ? As a note I've been sent a new canister, o-ring and mounting plate with no change.

Quote:

Originally Posted by andestang (Post 534567)

If the are gets lower then it is now I usually bleed it so not as much air goes through the booster pump. After I bleed mine their wont be any air in it till I change either the carbon or a sediment filter. Mine still sometimes runs really loud though even when there is no air in it.