Which one is the "PIF"? I see a regular and a strong version.

I seem to remember reading that potassium is taken up slowly, so once you get it to NSW levels it is easy to maintain, but getting it there takes a lot. If this is the case, maybe it's time to change the salt. *gasp*

PIF I'm guessing is the potassium iodide fluoride, there's also K-Balance with is just a potassium supplement. I use both and find they last a long time, yes they are more money than other types but check the dosage rate. Usually other supplements are 5ml per 25gal while zeovit is 1 drop per 25 gal so more often than not zeovit is the better value. I also like the higher concentrations for the fact that your putting less unknown substances in the tank and I simply trust zeovit over other brands so even if it does cost a little more I don't mind. Same goes for the RB salt, it costs more but you'll dose less and possibly even save a little money.

You don't want to use PIF to maintain K+ levels. You'll overdose with iodide before you hit 380 ppm. K Balance Strong is the way to go.

Myka, you are right, there is a small square paper with the small hole. I did not know what it was so I threw it away. Could not find it... I hope it does not affect the test too much.

Tailor Aquatics also makes K in very high concentration (5ml per 100gal once a week; however, they don't specify the quantity of dosing). I assume it is high concentration. 500ml bottle is less than $20.

I agree with you all, the KZ K is the way to go

You don't want to use PIF to raise the potassium level, but you can use it to maintain it. When used properly that is exactly what it's made for, maintaining both potassium and iodide levels. By "properly" I mean never exceeding dosing instructions and using a little common sense. For example if it states 1 drop per 25gal daily I would assume this is for a fully stocked high demand system, if you have a medium demand system you would dose half.

Well... no. PIF is a color refining product that has little of no capability of maintaining any significant levels of K+. The biggest problem with trying to achieve any form of K+ dosing with PIF is that it WILL result in an overdose of Iodide. You're better off doing water changes with a salt that has elevated levels of K+.

That said, PIF is untouchable for producing vivid blue coloration.

Potassium is found in all living cells. I you are feeding your tank either prepared or frozen food, you are dosing potassium.

Since potassium test kits are notoriously inaccurate, the logical way to dose potassium would be to keep up with regular water changes. This would bring K up if it is too low, and reduce K if too much K were being introduced by feedings.

The exception would be if it is proved that a given salt mix has a lower K concentration than sea water does. In that case, adding a potassium supplement (for example KCL or K2SO4) to water change water in an amount calculated to bring the K up to sea water levels might make sense.

This is something I worry about...I really don't think the KZ test is very accurate, but possibly that is mostly attributed to user inability. I wish it was the type that you put drops in until it changes color (I forget the terminology for that). I find those are really easy to read, and have much less room for error, or guess work.

BOOYAH:

http://www.worldwidereefers.com/foru...read.php?t=413

I've never had trouble figuring out the reading on this test kit, and finally, after reading this post, have figured out why - I take the FIRST impression and don't dwell on the visual as it becomes more and more relative as your eye adjust to the sample (thanks Alexander).

HTH's

Yeah thats what I have been doing as well, it isn't hard for your eye to adjust and "envision" that orange line through your sample. I realized that right away but my eyes are pretty quick, making it tough to come up with a reading on the spot. Eventually I covered up the rest of the line with a piece of paper, seems to do the trick :biggrin: