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I'm no expert at reefing, only been into it for a year and my tank that had the extreme cyano is only a month old and I attributed the outbreak to the nitrate spike that naturally comes with the cycling process.
having said that, I just directed the flow so that there were no deadspots in the aquarium at all. Having good interaction of gases at the surface is important, but unless your tank is enclosed or you have a serious canopy it should be fine without a powerhead creating turbulence at surface. The key for me was to remove the nitrates and I did that by siphoning the surface of my substrate (this was tricky to do without disrupting the entire bed) and the surface of all of my liverock. This combined with replacing the water that was siphoned out with fresh ro/di saltwater and adjusting the flow so there were no dead spots to enable detritus (nitrate) buildup has so far aleviated my 72 gallon display of cyano with no chemicals and I had it BAD, so bad that when it first hit I thought of giving up the new tank. glad i didn't as with a little patience and elbow grease it was an easy fix. |
I have just been using tap water I do not have an ro/di unit. Do you think it would help to use the distilled water that you can buy by the gallon at the grocery store??? I don't know maybe I'm grasping at straws now???
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Years ago I had a really horrible outbreak and used the product that other people in this thread refered to as Chemiclean. It worked great! Noticed an immediate improvement and I have never had the problem again. I bought mine at J and L aquatics, but your LFS may carry it. About 20 bucks, and you don't need much, depending on the size of the tank. Didn't hurt anything in the tank except the cyano.
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I have been told to use RODI but when the used RO unit i bought didnt work i stgayed with tap and its fine IMO just premix in advance. |
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