What is the point of the "reservoir tank"? I don't see how the water even gets out of there....:question:

The connectors are a real basic design. You just push the tube into the connector all the way and bam you are done. I know I tried to use tubing from a different RO unit with them and I got leaks so I had Aqua Safe send me some of their tubing and everything was fine.

As for the resevoir
If you have the faucet closed then the water will build up in the resevoir until a certain pressure is reached at which point no more water will be flowing through the system. The point of the resevoir is to provide a faster flow of water from when you initially go to use your water. Without it you would get the standard drip drip flow rate when you went to fill a container or aquarium.

Responded on the other thread... the pressure meter isn't useless! It is a great diagnostic/troubleshooting tool. If you ever have a problem with your unit, the pressure meter may be the only way to find out where the problem is (pressure differential between stages). Use plumbers putty/dope on all your threaded connections (and use more than you think you need). Don't use teflon tape, it doesn't work very well at all on plastic connections. The John Guest (push-fit) connections are leaking, then it is likely that either the lines are deformed at entry (from cutting), or you're not pushing them in far enough. Once the line is fully inserted, you also need to pull it back a bit to lock and seal it properly. These connectors shouldn't be leaking if you're using them correctly.

The water is sent into a rubber bladder inside the cannister that pressurizes against the trapped air in the cannister. Push water in under pressure, and it expands against the trapped air. Open a valve, and the air pushes back and provides a few gallons of water on demand.

The reservoir is to get you a few gallons more less right away and not having to wait to fill a glass or pot etc at the low rate from the unit itself.

Reservoir is filled when the faucet line is turned off and "reservoir" discharged through the last filter when the faucet is opened and under pressure from the bladder inside the tank. If you decide not to use the last filter just get a JG tee from HD or somewhere.

The pressure gauge is really only needed once at set up to get an idea of the pressure of supply and maybe troubleshooting if have problems later. I have mine tee'd between supply and ro/di unit.

Copper, really don't think you have to worry about how much the house lines will add between the flushing from everyday use and the scale that will coat the inside.

The black 1/4" hose is waste water from the RO/DI unit. I think I had to purchase three separate pieces to make this work, actually: the "y" adapter, the valve, and then the piece that connects the 1/4" hosing to the valve. I don't EXACTLY remember :redface: ....
http://xca.xanga.com/a35c45fbc4c3217...b133795805.jpg

From a different angle:
http://x63.xanga.com/61bc51fa58c3317...b133795821.jpg

This is my unit as it looks right now. Because I'm cheap, I didn't fill the DI canister full of new resin, and so I just tip it...lol. Whatever--I consistently get a TDS of 0 when all is said and done :biggrin: Note that, in this picture, the "waste water" tubing is yellow, but in the above photos, it's black. I just have them connected together because I didn't have one single piece of 1/4" tubing long enough at the time, and didn't want to make ANOTHER trip to Rona! Same thing applies to the tubing that feeds the unit. In the first two pics, it's clear, and in the above pic, it's white. Again, I used two pieces. I hope this doesn't make things even more complicated.
http://x36.xanga.com/eebc47665963217...b133795837.jpg

Sweet! So that last cannister that is ontop is not required to be hooked up then eh?

Correct. That's used if you're making drinking water, I believe....but water coming out of it will have a higher TDS than water that comes directly out of the DI canister.

That's right, the top canister is remove the smell from water we get in the spring and is intended for drinking water. I have mine running through that canister since my unit is built in under the sink in the kitchen and is also used for drinking water. The TDS are still 0 - 1.

hmm I think I just might have this figured out. I think I will put it under the basement batchroom sink becuase I might be able to get some tee adapters and then I can just run the drain into the furnace room.