Hey tony,

Thanks for clearing that up as it was confusing having same thread posted for 2 different products. He does say he did noticebetter results when he was using the full balling method with NACL free salt vs the lite balling method...regardless of which salt he was using.

To me it seems more advantageous to use the balling system as designed originally. I don't want to have to and don't think you should have to play chemist with another product to make it have same results as the original. The lite version seems to miss out the whole principle of the balling system which is plain and simple to refresh the system with all the trace elements found in modern sea salt while keeping an ionic balanced state.

Hey Boob,

Feel free to post the proof to that statement.

Here is the real story, to the best of my knowledge, he still runs this system.

Would love for you to share. I'm not trying to start a debate as to what product is better. It's the method of balling that's being questioned.

Seems much simpler and less confusing to dose 3 things and get it right vs dosing more then 3 and having to try get things balanced yourself.

When Coral Coloration Matters; Fauna Marin Balling Light
 

Lol mrhasan just want some popcorn dawg!!! And can you explain what you mean by only dosing 3 things vs dosing more then 3 things?


-Tony

When Coral Coloration Matters; Fauna Marin Balling Light
 

With FM you are dosing 5 things for the balling method correct?

With TM you only have 3 because the part " c " contains all the extra goodies that come in FM extra bottles.

Yah I want popcorn. Or balling salt. Anything free works for me. :biggrin:

more!!!!!


at least this one isnt locked down:P

Amen to that! :mrgreen:

I'm tagging along as well, how do these results work in a new tank for example my tank is pretty young and I do 25% WC ever 2 weeks most sps are frags or mini colony's and most LPS are medium to big colony's I haven't (yet) had a problem maintaining mag alk or calcium and low po4 and nitrates in between WCs,

Would these systems not be used untill a semi mature tank or

Fauna Marin Balling Light is 3 parts.
Calcium
Alkalinity
Magnesium
All the extra trace elements are added into your ca/alk/mg respectively. These would be the extra "goodies" you are referring too, and they are added to the 3 salt mixes.

You just dose exactly what your tank needs according to its consumption rate.
FM is more for the avid hobbits that wants to feel the true heart beat of their tank.... and they are not interested in the people looking to keep stagnant ponds with high DOC's where there are no WC's being performed!!
Simple and easy to use

TM is 3 parts
CA
ALK
NaCl Free salt
Ca, alk and NaCL free salts all should be dose in the same proportion in order to maintain the proposed ionic balance.
BUT if your tank consumes more Magnesium you need to dose MG as well so
MG (optional/possible)
Its in the letter directly from TM, where he says you may need to dose additional MG.
And IF this is the case and IF this ionic balance is so important then what happens when you add Mg??? Now you are also adding more Cl, which means you are not in ionic balance!!
Does this really matter and will it hurt your tank?
NO, absolutely not!




Otherwise every single Kent, Seachem, FM, TM product out there would have crashed thousands of tanks by now.


With Full Balling, Balling Light, or 2 part it all boils down to the same thing.
You need to test your tank, see what your tank is consuming.

If you want to keep an lps/softies tank you can be lazy and check here and there and when you feel like it basically because your parameter consumption rates will be very low. WC's will often maintain your parameters
Honstly I could tell you the last time we checked the parameters on our LPS system and its LOADED with a lot of pricey pieces, but with our reg WC the params dont change much.

lps/sps
You need to check a bit more often, nothing to crazy hard core as your coral load isnt to extreme

Heavy sps load
now you really gotta check more often.
Hoe often really depends on the coral load and how much you are adding and taking away from the tank.
A nice mature display, once a week is probably good.
A newer display, you could have to check as often as every other day depending on how fanatical you are, how heavy you increase the load etc.
I consider myself to be a bit crazy, just slightly crazy about my sps. I hate parameters fluctuating so i probably check way more often than required....