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-   -   NEW Tank Build !!! (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=95033)

lastlight 03-11-2013 08:33 PM

mp40s for your needs would run pretty low which also means semi quiet.

sphelps 03-11-2013 08:34 PM

If you can pick a permanent location you could use a hole saw with a drill guide to remove the acrylic where the MP10 will sit.

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2013 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 801173)
mp40s for your needs would run pretty low which also means semi quiet.

true, will have to think.

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2013 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 801174)
If you can pick a permanent location you could use a hole saw with a drill guide to remove the acrylic where the MP10 will sit.

The acrylic is inside the tank.

Seriak 03-11-2013 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801157)
Epidural fibrosis thanks to spine surgery is not pleasant I am now doing Prolotherapy (check spelling)

Now I am derailing. ;)

At the risk of derailing again. Please ensure you do your research on Prolotherapy. It was recommended to me, but after doing my research, I found the advantages / viability of it is still up in the air as to whether the injections actually do anything for you. In the studies where it did work, people were also doing core exercises/ adjustments for the area. I found that the exercises alone were enough for my specific problem without getting rather long needles put into my spine at the same time.

sphelps 03-11-2013 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801178)
The acrylic is inside the tank.

I know where it is :lol: You can easily get a drill and a guide in there, yes you'll have to drain the water but it's an idea if you're set on using MP10s

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2013 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seriak (Post 801180)
At the risk of derailing again. Please ensure you do your research on Prolotherapy. It was recommended to me, but after doing my research, I found the advantages / viability of it is still up in the air as to whether the injections actually do anything for you. In the studies where it did work, people were also doing core exercises/ adjustments for the area. I found that the exercises alone were enough for my specific problem without getting rather long needles put into my spine at the same time.

Good advise ;) will report back in pm when I am done.

dave_C 03-11-2013 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801165)
Correct 10mm is the thickest they will work on and yes the glass IS 10mm thick ;)

The included Rubber Spacer must be used between the Dry Side and the wall for thicknesses of 1/8” (3mm) and 3/16” (5mm). The Rubber Spacer is not needed for thicknesses of 1/4” (6mm) or 3/8” (10mm). Failure to use the Rubber Spacer can damage the pump, which WILL NOT be covered under warranty.



nope 12mm lol

sphelps 03-11-2013 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dave@conceptaquatics (Post 801196)
nope 12mm lol

Should probably have the structural engineer confirm :wink:

jorjef 03-11-2013 09:20 PM

GET YOUR POPCORN HERE $1.00/ BAG, GET YOUR POPCORN....

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2013 10:09 PM

MP40's installed :) x 2

denny_CC 03-11-2013 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801257)
MP40's installed :) x 2

i think youll find the mp40's are a perfect fit , on my cube i went with one 40 and one 10 i run the 10 on 100% and the 40 on 70% ,this is with a large substrate sandbed and a mixed reef , i imagine your going sps? if i had my time back i would have went with two 40's the 10 gets hot and is loud running on full.

the 10's dont have spacers, just the rubber spacer;)


cheers

denny
concept aquatics

Aqua-Digital 03-11-2013 10:15 PM

mixed reef this time steering clear of acros other than some stags.

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 10:15 PM

Durso suggestions for a silent life?

running two drains 1" tried the normal T piece with elbow down and hole in a end cap for air intake, but they are sooooo loud and the amount of air getting down to the sump is turning it into a jacuzzi.

The 8' drop has a lot to do with it.

So one for the experts here ;)

Duker 03-12-2013 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801257)
MP40's installed :) x 2


why wouldn't ya...after all vortechs rock!!!

The Grizz 03-12-2013 10:20 PM

I found that the 1" durso was way to loud so I went with 1 1/2" and made all the difference in the world.


Stay clear..... this Bear bites off limbs!!

lastlight 03-12-2013 10:25 PM

herbie will work. can't beat the silence of a siphon...

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 801646)
herbie will work. can't beat the silence of a siphon...

I guess I need to put a balancing valve in? If so can this go near the sump or has to go up by the tank?

lastlight 03-12-2013 10:38 PM

I always put the gate valve at the pipe's end before it enters the sump chamber. it needs to control the sihpon properly and because the water throughout the pipe is pulling downwards I think it has to be at the sump.

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 10:42 PM

Ok so what I have learned is this

drain 1 Durso style with balancing gate valve at sump?
drain 2 = open acts as overflow

You balance drain 1 until it stops sucking in air and drain 2 takes the excess water?

http://gmacreef.com/wp-content/uploa...-gmacreef1.jpg

lastlight 03-12-2013 10:54 PM

you don't need dursos really. the full siphon can just be thru bulkhead. i tune the flow so it just barely trickles into the secondary standpipe. You make the standpipe / emergency drain taller to raise the water level in the overflow box and make it as quiet as possible.

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 10:56 PM

so the emergency also allows you to balance the height of the water in the tank?

lastlight 03-12-2013 10:58 PM

the height of water in the overflow box. the standpipe/emergency should still be a bit lower than the overflow weir / cutout so you don't raise the display's levels.

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 11:02 PM

my cut outs give too much gap between euro brace and water height thats why I asked, instead of closing off the depth of the teeth I thought it would be easier just to raise the standpipe?

I need to raise the tank level basically

lastlight 03-12-2013 11:08 PM

i guess you could but would that scenario skim the surface as well? i'd personally silicone a strip of glass inside the overflow to raise it up a little. it could be glued behind the existing teeth.

Aqua-Digital 03-12-2013 11:10 PM

argh yes you are right, time to get the silicon gun out ;)

Brilliant help thanks.

Aqua-Digital 03-13-2013 01:30 AM

How much gap you guys leave from water height to Euro Brace? I dont like seeing much of a gap but also need room for turbulence.

Skimmerking 03-13-2013 03:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801714)
How much gap you guys leave from water height to Euro Brace? I dont like seeing much of a gap but also need room for turbulence.

1.5"

denny_CC 03-13-2013 03:58 AM

there should be no need to make adjustments , heres how it works


your primary drain is your workhorse , this is going to be a full syphon. basically open your gatevalve all the way and then slowly close it untill water level is rising not falling. once the water height is about 2" above your standpipe fine tune the gatevalve closed so it matches your return, now you have a bubble free super quiet drain,fine tuning may take a little bit.

the height of the primary standpipe sets the water level in the box , shoot for about 1/2-1/3 of the overflow box so there no noise of rushing water.

no durso is needed imo and its easier to fine tune the water level looking directly at the top of the standppe, we designed your tank in a way that no fish or snails are getting in unless they are under 1/4" in size.

the water in the box wont have a lot of flow as its all syphon and it collects ditrius so be sure to clean in reguarily.

for the emergency set it at water height , i like to keep this dry untill emergencies arise, never restrict your emergency or use it for more than a trickle.

the weir is 1 1/2" deep from the eurobrace this allows for a 1" water line in the tank.


be sure to test it before walking away , test the emergency and i use marks to fine tune my primary, if after a few hours it goes down slightly ill just barely tune it....after a while the sweet spot is found.


cheers


denny
concept aquatics

lastlight 03-13-2013 04:07 AM

Denny he wants to raise the level in the display...

subman 03-13-2013 04:13 AM

just close the valve slightly to raise the water level. (I skimmed through I'm assuming it's a herbie now)

sphelps 03-13-2013 04:15 AM

Water level in the overflow needs to be lower than the display for effective surface skimming so you can't use standpipes or the gate valve to adjust tank level. The tank water level is set by the notch depth for the external overflow, you can raise it with a layer of silicone or a piece of acrylic however you obviously can't lower it. A higher flow rate from the return pump will also lift the level a bit.

subman 03-13-2013 04:17 AM

ahhh misunderstood sorry. what Steven said lol

lastlight 03-13-2013 05:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subman (Post 801776)
ahhh misunderstood sorry. what Steven said lol

Steve copied me!

denny_CC 03-13-2013 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 801774)
Water level in the overflow needs to be lower than the display for effective surface skimming so you can't use standpipes or the gate valve to adjust tank level. The tank water level is set by the notch depth for the external overflow, you can raise it with a layer of silicone or a piece of acrylic however you obviously can't lower it. A higher flow rate from the return pump will also lift the level a bit.


yeah a thin strip of acrylic siliconed to the back side of the teeth will work good:)

Aqua-Digital 03-13-2013 10:40 AM

yep that's what ive done 1/2" gap now, still would prefer no gap but leaves no room for MP40 wave fun!

Should be fully running by Friday with some fish, the Mitras will be installed at the weekend providing I can get the bracket overnight from by FedEx.

sphelps 03-13-2013 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 801809)
Steve copied me!

Yeah but you rambled on for two pages so I didn't see all your posts

lastlight 03-13-2013 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aqua-Digital (Post 801827)
yep that's what ive done 1/2" gap now, still would prefer no gap but leaves no room for MP40 wave fun!

Should be fully running by Friday with some fish, the Mitras will be installed at the weekend providing I can get the bracket overnight from by FedEx.

Must be nice! Maybe send a few Mitras to Calgary so I can do the same :sad:

Seriak 03-13-2013 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 801849)
Must be nice! Maybe send a few Mitras to Calgary so I can do the same :sad:

I'll make it even easier. Send a couple more my way and you may get an even better discount on all of them. :)

Aqua-Digital 03-14-2013 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 801849)
Must be nice! Maybe send a few Mitras to Calgary so I can do the same :sad:

are you waiting for one? or wanting for one?


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