I need to make some progress on mine too...

I had my heatsink cut to size yesterday, now I have to figure out how I want to do my pendant enclosure. Still waiting on a bunch of small stuff get here so I can do the circuits for temp, and PWM fan.

Well... to keep costs down, I'm going to try to make a pendant out of left over acrylic I have from when I built my tank years ago. Here's the faceplate I came up with to hold the remote TFT display for Jarduino. Sorry for the crappy pic's... just snapped them quick with my phone.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/5...3012300110.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/7...3012300121.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/8...3012300119.jpg

Not as nice as something CNC'd... but it'll work. I'll try to cut the other pieces this weekend, but have to wait on some syringes to apply the weld-on 4 to arrive from ebay. (Pharmacist looked at me like I had 3 heads when I tried get some locally)

Chris

Nice job. Had me convinced that you CNC'd it :razz: How did you do it?

If I can rally the energy tonight I'm gonna CNC my enclosure for my Typhon controller. It's been a REALLY exhausting week, so that's a big maybe... but we'll see :mrgreen:

Just used a router... I built the table that you can partially see in the background when I made my tank. (8 years ago)

The piece came out decent.... the TFT display is flush with the back of the 3/8" thick acrylic, will router a hole in the side panel of the pendant for the ribbon cable to connect. Then I'll just use 2 small cap screws to secure the faceplate to the pendant side panel. I wish I had black acrylic to use instead, but that just isn't in the cards right now. (will probably use krylon fusion paint)

Hopefully it will all come together ok.

Chris

Don't forget to post pic's when you get it done... I'm sure lots of people will be interested in what you come up with for the typhon, especially for the menu buttons. I wanted to build that controller, but could never just find anyone that had a spare PCB.

Nice work Chris. I was thinking of doing something similar when it came time to do it. More of my parts are slowly trickling in. I tried uploading the 1.1 version sketch on to my Arduino and I'm having issues. First of all I found out the Arduino environment has to be tweaked a bit so it can handle such a large file transfer. Jamie provided a tweaked version with the download, but it's not Mac compatible. Du'oh!
So I commandeered my wife's laptop and finally got everything loaded there. What a pain. Funny how Windows illiterate you get when you work with a Mac for a while.
Anyway, got everything running on the laptop, the sketch verify's good and load's onto the Arduino fine with no error's but my TFT screen is blank. Hmmmm....
The screen powers up fine it's just blank. So I'm not sure if I have a slightly different version of screen than he used in his programming and I need to change something in the code or what.
That's where I'm at....

So, I have a parts question maybe you guys can help me with. I'm trying to be able to stack multiple proto boards on top of one another. I figure I'll need 2 boards between the main Arduino and the ITDB02 Mega shield that runs the TFT screen. I can find the stackable 8 pin female headers with the long legs to be able to do most of it, but is there such a thing as a 40 pin female header with the long legs? Or do I have to lego the 8pin's together to do it?

Hmmm.... I loaded up ver 1.1 also to play with a week ago or so, I did make a change in the sketch before loading though. I changed line 92 to this....

I didn't change anythin on line 93, but included it incase for whatever reason yours was different. I am using a TFT from sainsmart, not itead's, but it uses the same driver... I wish I would have found the reports about the sainsmart TFT before I bought mine, but so far so good.

Just a note... you can't go off of the line #'s in Jamies manual for ver 1.1, as it was written for 1.2, and they're different.

HTH
Chris

The ones for the arduino are 36 pin... it changes over to 40 pin on the shield for the TFT. Itead does sell the stackable header kits for the mega. I have some on order... should have them here any day.

Yeah, you're totally right! I never noticed. I have a 40 pin header on the ITDB02 mega shield for the TFT screen and didn't even check the Arduino.
Thanks. I'll have to check for the stacking header for it tonight and see if that code change works for me.

Dom

I machined the slot for the controller last night and I'll try to finish off the control box tonight or Sunday. I think I might try to 3D print myself some button extensions :mrgreen:. I've been taking pics along the way, so when I get time I'll put together a build thread.

Wow... a bunch of typo's in my last post. Now I have to put a disclaimer in for my sig. :redface:

Dom-
If you aren't able to find any headers, I'll have an extra. Tracking shows that my package is finally (after 3 weeks) in Canada, so should have it early next week. You can also use the 8 pin female stackable headers, and lego it like you said if you have enough extra.

lol... If I had a 3d printer and a CNC in my house, I'd NEVER leave it, PLUS I'd finally have a reason to learn how to use solidworks more in-depth. Looking forward to the pic's.

Chris

new small bump in the road... does anyone know of an online source for weld-on 4, or small quantites of methylene cholride & glacial acetic acid so I can make my own? Just read that weld-on/methylene chloride has a shelf life of 2 years. None of the glass shops here were much help, and not sure I want to chance using my 8 year old stuff.

Woohoo! Progress. After several days of fiddling and fooling around with some code issues I finally got my Arduino running the code. Turns out the V1.1 code isn't Mac compatible and I've been trying to do this on my computer. Had to move over to the wife's. Here's the board up and running:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0df57eae.jpg

and a close up of the screen shot:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d20f4fd.jpg

I'm able to navigate through everything, set the date and time. I still need to get me some tall header's to be able to stack multiple prototyping boards so I can wire up my temperature sensors and future Ph sensors as well.
My LDD drivers are shipping on the 29th not the 26th like I thought. I'll also be getting my HLG drivers for the XM-L LED's.
I'm excited!.

LDD's and HLG driver officially are en-route via DHL. Good thing as I hear a few other suppliers who had gotten shipments have already sold out again and the eta on next shipment is Arpil

Shot in the dark but... Did you order any extra LDDs? Long story short, I need three more. I'm going to be putting a mouser order through but thought I'd ask!

I did get a couple extra's, what size did ya need?

WooHoo! I got my LDD drivers today and my HLG drivers as well. Man, I didn't think these LDD's were quite that small.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps94207cd4.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps766243c2.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...psd2782b01.jpg

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...psef7859b8.jpg

Hey Chis (Chatouille) PM me your details and I'll send you those drivers you needed.

Ha! And I didn't think that HLG would be so big! It's huge!

Haha, yeah, it's gonna take up some space, especially considering I'll have 3 of these 42V's and a 36V.
Well, I couldn't resist doing something since I'm home sick with the flu today. I get bored pretty quick, lol.
I soldered up one of my boards with the mounting clips for the LDD's and everything looks good.
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6850d288.jpg

I'm wanting to steal a bit of power from my power supply units so I got some HRD DC converters. But they come stock with set resistors and I want to switch them out for variable ones so I can adjust the voltage I need depending what I want to power up. For instance my Arduino , my cooling fans, etc.
So here's the converter I have:
http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...pse46d37c4.jpg

and the back:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps63a71149.jpg

and the variable resistor I'd like to use:

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...psddd45ac4.jpg

Any insights as to how to wire the variable resistor is greatly appreciated. :)

That's pretty straight forward. It's basically the same ideas as the LM2725-ADJ that I'll be using the step down from 24 to 12 V all bundled with an inductor into a nice little package. Basically by varying the value of the two resistors you can change the output voltage, mainly the resistor connecting pin 6 and pin 7. That said both resistors play a role. I tried looking up the datasheet for that converter and it is fantastically ****ty (from a Chinese manufacturer - nuff said). They have an equation for calculating the output voltage based on the resistor values but it seems to be on crack. I'll run through the math and see if I can clean it up and make some sense of for you, then give you a graph of the resistor values versus output voltage.

Hmmm, I kinda figured it wasn't great. Here's the unit I bought on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HRD-Series-C...item3a67dc22c9

Not sure if that gives you any more info than you had already.

Ya, I know which part it is. The converter itself is actually really good... just the data sheet explaining it sucks. I'll see what I can dig up. I'll have something for you tonight.

lol... I'm sure the package of goodies made the decision to stay home easier. :mrgreen:

Let me know how those HRD's work out, and how warm it gets. ( I Ended up going with a LM2576HV instead )

When you get a chance, pm me so I can get payment out to you.

I finally got to sending them your way today. And PM'd ya with the specifics.

Not much progress, plan to solder up my protoboard tonight or tomorrow. Here is what I made for the enclosure, there's a groove an inch below the heatsink that I can slide in a splash guard. I also made the top with a 120mm PWM controlled fan.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/4...3021600134.jpghttp://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/1...3021600132.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/8...3021600131.jpg

(Almost hate to paint it)

Come on Dom..... let's see some pic's!

Sweet looking enclosure!!! That's going to look awesome!
Lol, I've been so sick with this crappy flu and busy at work I haven't done a thing. Sounds like my stacking headers hit Vancouver though and will be shipped to me shortly (thanks to ScubaSteve), so I should be able to get going on that again and get some of my sensors and fans wired up to some proto boards.

Can anyone tell me where I can find the schematics and gerber file for the pcb?

Thanks in advance.

:-)

Check out RC. In the DIY forum, look for the thread: Meanwell LDD driver: for those who want to dim to 0 using Arduino. There's a couple files there, but I know one is on post #936.

Hope that helps

Meanwell LDD driver
 

Planning to use mosfet, but Meanwell LDD driver is better. Can some one show me how to wire this? Does it requires any resistors?

I haven't looked into mofset at all, so sorry, can't help ya. Maybe ScubaSteve or Chatouille can help. Any reason why you don't want to go LDD?

I do, but want to know how to wire them before before I order LDD drivers.

Easiest way is to get a hold of a couple PCB boards like the ones I showed earlier in the thread.
Here's a quick sketch of how they're wired up from a search I did. I did not make this and I haven't wired mine up yet so proceed with a bit of caution. The LED's on the sketch are backwards, but you get the idea. I know Scubasteve has some wired up and running, maybe he'll chime in here later. Depending on how many LDD's you'd need, I do have a few spare you an get off me for what I paid for them.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47efa63a.png

Thanks,

I better use UNO to test it out instead of MEGA. Is the driver and Arduino share the same ground?

I believe so.

Do have extra LDD-H boards for sell? Or you can tell me where to get them?

The mosfet approach is a lot more difficult to implement, even if you know what you are doing. The LDDs work basically in the same way but have a much more efficient switching scheme and run a lot cooler (not to mention added thermal and overcurrent protection). The schematic Dom showed you is correct and, yes, the LEDs are backwards. I was in a rush when I drew that up:redface:. The resistor connecting the PWM pin is optional but is there to cause the fixture to fail off in case the driver becomes disconnected from the controller. Without this it fails to 100% on. Not the end of the the world, but the pull-down resistor is more rigorous in terms of design.

Vin-, the ground/negative of the controller and the ground of the power supply are all connected together. If not, you get funny behaviors like the LEDs operating at 50% max output and fried drivers. Don't ask how is figured this out.

Thanks,

Will give these drivers a try. Do you know where is the cheapest.
Looking at 10 of the 1A and 10 of the .7A.

Thanks, scubasteve! I actually didn't know that was you that had posted that diagram, lol. I wish people kept the same user names from forum to forum :D

Reefme:
Sorry I don't have any boards. I actually bought mine off of a guy on RC who had extra. You might try there.
I'll PM you when I find the info on where I got my LDD's from, pretty much the cheapest I've found.

How’s your project been coming Dom?

Still not done here, it’s been hard to find the time to finish this project.

Anyways…. here’s where I am so far.

http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/546/img3223o.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/large/12/img3227x.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/820/img3225y.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/138/img3228m.jpg
http://imageshack.us/scaled/medium/22/img3231gj.jpg

Still have a few tweaks to do.... might order a few more LED's, update Jarduino to 1.2, and work on a cable mount.