Please believe me, this is not priming it, you may think it is but it isn't,

lol your paint skills are has good as mying lol.
ok i will try that just means i need to go buy another t and cap.
but i even tried building it just like this video and still didnt work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjSLPVoLIs4
let m eknow your thoughts thanks.

ok so then how do you prime it? oh might primer lol

OK, Thats a good method of priming. They are using a vacuum pump to remove all the air, but there is a check valve in the line so no air can flow back into the system there.

BUT, what he had there still will drain down untill the inlet becomes uncovered. It will not restart after that.

Try what I said with getting the siphon going with cap installed on your T. Then after 15 seconds, remove cap.

And I just remembered, If you put another T in where I drew, your going to have to plug both the inlet and the outlet to the sump in order to prime it. Might be just better to do the remove cap method. Priming and making sure there is no air in the line will be difficult

Man this getting difficult lol. I thought this was going to be easy. This just seems to be getting harder and harder by every min. So I don't know what I'm going to do.

You have to draw the air out of the highest point.

It's part of the learning process. The whole concept is hard to grasp when you haven't done it before. By the time you get that working you'll wonder why you didn't figure that out to begin with, which by that time you will never need to make another one ever.

Sit down, relax. It'll be alright. I know my ramblings have probibally confused you more than I may have helped. It is a gift I have LOL.

Lets look at this systematically.

IN the youtube vid, what you had there worked. BUT, it worked to well in the fact that it lowered the bucket level to much. You did have a siphon there. So, how you started it was good.

But, what is needed is someting to slow and lessen the siphon effect when the tank level gets to the T level. That will be the air hole in the cap.

You need to plug the cap to get water to start flowing over the tank portion of the pipe. When you filled the pipe and tried with the cap off, it just drained the sump line and the T up to the cap. Why? because the cap was off and allowing air in, it was not pulling water from the tank, over the top and down

Now, if we cap it, get the water flowing over the top and down, that water in that line, will remain in there if no air is allowd to enter in the upper U. Once water is flowing and you know its spiphoning from tank, uncap the T. This will let air in and release the siphon that Sump line has. You want the water in the sump line to not be under siphon. The only part that needs to be air tight is the over the tank piping.

Uncapping the T should now let the drain slow down when the water level in bucket/tank gets to the level of the T and stop draining. Add more water to bucket, drain should start again.

If the over the tank pipe is sucking air through the joints, the drain will not restart. You need to make sure that section atleast is air tight!

Ya I think that the joints are letting air in but I don't want to glue everything together and the have to change things around and not be able to know whY I mean. And I think I understand what your saying. I think I'm going to take a break from the overflow for a day or so and then try again. Thanks for all the help dude i think it will go along way when my mind is fuctioning again lol.

Ya I hear ya. Just glue the over the tank part, up to your present T. Nice thing about PVC is it's real cheap stuff to experiment with so not a great expense. But I think if you glue the overflow part, that will be fine and won't need changing.

Ok so I tried again. This time I glued up to the t pArt lower the t abit and also lowered the intake. I filled up the bucket and also filled the overflow system I got the siphon going and it was working great. Then I pulled off the cap and still had water movment. Then I waited till the water got down to the level of the t and the water slowed. So I then filled the bucket back up and it seemed to still be flowing but at a very slow rate. And I'm not sure why? Lol any ideas? Should that pipe with the cap that come upward off the t be longer? Anyways let me know what you think. Thanks bandit.

Sounds like you got it working :D

When you start the siphon, with the cap on, it flows REALLY fast. But that is what sucks it down and uncovers the inlet. Once you take the cap off, the drain slows to only what is needed to keep the tank/bucket at level. When the tank level rises a bit, more water will be forced through the pipe and down the drain, if tank level lowers, the flow slows. The drain should set itself to flow the same as what your return pump is putting back into your tank. The will ballance and that's what's needed

Glad to hear we have success :D

ok so i drilled a hole in the top of the cap.. and ive had it sitting in a tub of water with my return pump going for about mmm 4 hours and everything seems to be working fine i can even pull the overflow out of the water and put it back in and it still flows water thanks for all the hekp...

You mean you can raise the entire unit, and then put it back?

$20 says you can't take it out of the water for 1 minute and put it back and have it still work.

Umm ya I can so you owe me 20 buck.

It isn't possible, when you remove the unit from the water you will lose siphon and it will never return unless you prime the unit again.

You really have money to burn Paul.

The whole point of this type of (partial) siphon drain is that it holds water high enough at the gravity drain point, so prime is maintained in the event of a power outage.

The weak link is when air bubbles accumulate at the top of the first bend. This problem is compounded when you can't see what's going on inside the pipes. I would add a 1" vinyl hose at the top, as it fits well over 3/4" hose. I would also install a one way air check valve so you can suck out the accumulated air with a venturi, aqualifter pump, or manually.

Tell you what, if it automatically regains a siphon I will send $2000 dollars and have it flown to NASA, they love this stuff .

raising and lowering is easy, taking it out of the water is another issue.

No, I bet he Won't lose siphon he lifts it out. Because he has a J in the inlet there, No air will get into the upper, over the tank pipe so it will remain with water in it. IF the inlet was straight down, with no J on it, then ya all the water will just flow out when you lift it up. :D

Like the Water cooler princeaple.


Paul, you owe him $20 LMAO

It is possible cause I've done it 2-3 times today. So :p

I'll take the $2000. I think you mean "take the water out of the pipe", not "take the pipe out of the water".

If you lift the pipe out, it will hold siphon because the lowest drain point in the siphon portion is high enough to maintain prime.

No I took the pipe out of the water. And then put it back in and it worked fine. And that's what you said no way to so you owe me 20 bucks!!

Perfect, put it in a box and ship it to me, PM me your Paypal addy and I will be happy to send the money.

should it not work as advertised when received then I will contact you.

Why would I sent it to you. It's for my tank. And I'm going to be using it.

Paul, why doesn't the water all come pouring out of a water cooler bottle when it's placed on the cooler?? Because the water level in the reservoir is higher than the neck of the bottle and stops air from getting in. Thats how his overflow is working with the upturned hook on the inlet. It doesn't let air into the upper part of the plumbing so the water does not come out.

You of all people should see that.

Because I will send you enough money to build another and still have enough left to have a few beers on me.:)


The original design that you posted isn't quite the same as what you have built, built to the first post what you are describing could not happen,the addition of the U in the tank and the difference in tank to siphon fall off dimension is the reason that you can hold siphon.

the photo in post 17 could or can be deceiving depending on the angle that it is viewed at so I must assume the original pic is what the unit was modeled on, I stand by my word, send me your PayPal addy and I will send you $200, but I do want the actual unit.

Paul

Ok well I don't have paypal. And are you wanting me to make you one is that what your saying?

I don't need you to build me one, I have enough bits and pieces to build dozens of them.

I want that one..

A bet is a bet and I will be happy to send you $200 for that one, even though it isn't made exactly as the original pic it does do what it is supposed to do and a little more.


Paul

PS get a paypal account.

I didn't have Paypal until this week. It doesn't seem very secure to me. All someone needs is my email address and guess my password and they can clean out my credit card. I have more security on my cellphone account. Am I missing something?

Ya well I guess I'll have to get one so you can send me my money. Lol.

From your response I have the feeling that you don't believe me, there are many on this board that would be happy to tell you that I am not being facetious, who would you like me to send the money to?

Paul

me :D

I've been using Paypal for years. NEver an issue. Best thing to do, if your worried, is set up a separate bank account that you only use for PP. Then, on the highly unlikely chance your acct gets hacked, they don't have access to your real accounts, just whatever money you have transfered into PP

Just chose your pasword well, and change it often if you wish

Ok so I set up an account what info do I send you?

Paging "Coquitlam" anyone in Coquitlam want to send me their email addy so I can send someone their reward?

Paul

PM me your e-mail address.

Can you suggest a good one :)

i did pm you my email address

well thank you for keeping your word....