Link didn't work for me Ryan..

What link... or do you mean the pic of the strap i posted? (That is white and almost blends into the background.)

Edited my last post so its easier to read for Tony. :p

Actually I meant the picture wasn't displaying. It wasn't until I got a cookie setup at vacdepot.com before it would display. So it was just showing up as blank and when I tried to copy and paste into a different frame I got a "How dare you try to cross link one of our photos, you thievous jerk" type error message (might be slightly paraphrased).

Ahh ok... well I thefted a different pic and swapped the image. Does this one work fine?

I can't complain about Check Valve, especially these ones, because they have yet to fail on me *Knock on wood*. :mrgreen:

MONEY!! Will Swing by a HD or Rona today.. even though the those L brackets work. Or Maybe just replace them when the time is right.

Tile on the stand before you leave would be rad too. Let me know when you can get to that bro.

Should be doable in 19 hrs... i would think. :wink:

:lol:... Riiiight.. I might end up getting fishytime to finish my stand for me, when I get around to buying the supplies.

Check valves suck bro.. even fancy clear PVC ones won't sell me off that idea. :) I'll never trust another one again for a sump return line. Having said that, I see your outputs are near the top so you probably don't really have a huge latent problem on your hands like those who submerge their return lines at half depth or more..

The math of it all works out very close.. Sump will have a 10G allowable limit, plus I have an extra 5-6G in my refuge tank. Based on where my DT water level will be relative to my return bulkhead, I shouldn't have more that 14.1G flow back to the tank even if the Check Valve fails.

I thought that check valves worked on a spring.. doesn't that restrict flow as well ? I suppose there are non-springy check valves? I wouldn't know, I haven't used one in a zillion years.. I wonder if fishy will come over and skin my new stand as well.. I have no motivation at all to skin the new stand.. heck, i hear he is doing plumbing these days too. I should just get him to finish my build.

These "fancy clear PVC" check valves, have no metal or spring inside. It works on a rubber flaps that seals shut in the event of back flow. They do affect head pressure slightly.

To each their own I guess. I'm sure if they had failed on me in the past like Tony has experienced, I'd be un-easy to use them as well. But I've got a perfect history with them so I can only advocate them.

The only issue is they've failed for an assload of people lol. But it sounds like a harmless precaution as you can handle the backflow anyways I think. It's basic math but I just skimmed.

The reason these plastic flap ones fail is the seal builds up with crud and then doesnt seal properly....nice thing about them (and I recommend this at shop all the time) is the are true union....so you can swap in a clean on on a regular basis and soak the original to clean it....

I used to have it in my signature that I do custom stands and canopies....If your serious Kien shoot me a PM... I w i l l d o t h e p l u m b i n g f o r y o u r a q u a i u m t o o .(wanted to be really clear in the wording there...with all the pervs around).

Looking really good there Josh....(the tank that is....darn pervs)

True with proper maintenance you can reduce the risk of failure, .... just not completely eliminate the risk of failure because you just never know when a stomatella shell or something is gonna get jammed in it. Sorry, it's just a pet peeve of mine. The spring loaded ones are worse because they put a lot of backpressure on the pump reducing flow, and the springs can rust up (even though they're not supposed to).

Don't get me wrong, tank is top notch ... I sort of question whether you really need it in the first place but I suppose if you already have it you might as well use it. :p

So if the tank below can handle all the backflow why use the check valve? Just curious.

I don't want my sump filling to the rim every time I shut my pump off or the power blips/goes out. Yes, according to my math the sump can handle it, do I want to tempt that every time? No. What's wrong with an added piece of security? Just Curious.:wink:

I had one on my 75G and I had to shut my return pump off 1/week for 7-8months for waterchanges.. Not once did it fail. You guys are talking like they fail every time they get used. Sorry for your bad luck, but I can't argue with success. :mrgreen:

Are you worried that the sump filling that high will cause a break? Wasn't your sump an old display?

If you don't need a check valve then using one certainly isn't bad. Maybe it reduces your flow a tiny bit but not near as much as say...sch 80 pipe.

Has nothing to do with breaking. What if something else fails, say my ATO, and pumps my entire reservoir into my sump (which will be 10G once everything is said and done... Then say the power goes out. I certainly wouldn't have the room for that extra water now, nor do I have the space to plan for that, that's where the Check Valve would save me. If they both fail at the same time, well F-Me!! :lol:

ah.. nothing like a little controversy in a build thread :biggrin: I'm going to put 5 check valves in mine just for fun. :lol::lol:

anyway.. did I read or hear somewhere that you were going to do a closed loop? Did you have holes drilled into the bottom like your 75g? I didn't notice any holes in the pics. Or did I just totally make that up ?

Nope, no closed loop this time around. Gonna get my flow using 2 MP20's and 2-3 Tunze's.

SWEEET .// So what kind of tang are you gonna add now that you have the room.

No controversy, just sharing of opinions. The check valve sticks out as the one and only "B-" in the report card of otherwise all straight "A++'s" and so I felt Josh deserved to know why I felt that way.

Off topic a bit, but Kien and Josh, do either of you use those little lens cap holder strings with your camera stuff? ... just curious. :)

I do not use them no. All my lens caps came with them but I just threw the strings out and snapped off the little loop on the caps that the strings attach to. I just shove the cap in my pockets.

^^ I just remembered what I forgot to do before leaving the house this morning....... DOH!! :redface: Can't believe I forgot to leave the PVC out for you kien. So sorry man!

As for the lens cap strap, I've never owned a lens that came with one.

What with all the "Just Curious" questions these last few days.. :lol:

Jimbo - I'll probably get flamed for this but my tang choice(s) is a Powder Brown (Japonicus) and Convict Tang.

Whats size tunzes are you going to be using? 2-3 tunzes and 2 vortechs in a shallow 105 sounds like its pretty high flow? I cant remember what is going in this (yeah I guess I should just read page 1 lol).

Cant wait to see this come together!

Looking at Tunze 6045's. I had a MP20 (100% Reef Crest) in my 12" tall cube tank and never had any issues with sand or flow. The actual turnover compared to the cube is actually gonna be less (83x in the 30G compared to 65x in this tank)

This tank will mainly be SPS.

No worries. I was in tuscany anyway to drop off stuff at a clients so no buggy.

I was going to try a vortech in my shallow tank but everytime I see the price tag I gag a little bit.. Hehe. I know they're awesome, I've seen tonnes of them in action but they are so darned expensive :-(

If you still want it I can PM my roommate...

Yea, Vortechs are a bit pricey, but I think 2 MP20s are close to the same as 2 6055's w/ 7095 controller. With similar or even slightly more flow.

If I could afford more than 1 more MP20, I'd probably run 4 on this new tank.:mrgreen:

Cool info about the vortech! Im considering trying out an MP10 or 20 on my 52 to target a dead spot. But yeah the price tag is '2 large'.

Hold off Chris. If I decide to go that route on my cube you can buy it used for a lot less in a little bit =)

Haha, ok, thanks. I've been waffling over it for months anyways :P

Looking to get some input on my stocking list. Mostly looking for some help on who to add first->last. Any certain ones that I should maybe avoid (please give reason). Tangs will obviously go in last (at the same time)

Keep in mind, I already have 2 Occelaris Clowns, 1 Coral Beauty, and 1 Sixline Wrasse. Thanks in advance for any input.

2x Pseudanthias squamipinnis
http://www.acquaportal.it/ARTICOLI/M...amipinnis2.jpg

2x Nemateleotris magnifica
http://www.nano-reef.com/fish/images/firefish1.jpg

1x Pseudochromis Aldabraensis
http://www.tropicalfish.at/saltwater...dabraensis.jpg

1x Opistognathus randalli:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...ap-jawfish.jpg

1x Halichoeres chrysus:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...385-wrasse.jpg

1x Acanthurus japonicus:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nued/kush3.jpg

1x Acanthurus triostegus:
http://www.ultimatereef.net/iddb/ima...ngs/tang12.jpg

Theres room for more in there:razz:

only problem i would see is that the jawfish and wrasses are jumpers.

I don't got as much live rock as your tank man.. haha

I knew the wrasses were, didn't think the Randalli was a jumper.

yup. all jawfish are pretty bad when it comes to jumping. ive heard stories where they even jump through the holes in eggcrate

Yup, pretty much all gobies, blennies, jawfish and wrasses should come with parachutes

Randalli's are terrible for jumpers.

Cheers,

Chris

Maybe I will drop the Randalli and add a couple more squamipinnis..