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I decided to drill a hole in the bucket lid for a 3/4" hose and then put the hose into the container of carbon that I was originally going to put on top of skimmer. I think smelling the ozone is still a good idea. At least I will recognize the smell if it does escape etc. |
Don't get in the habit of sniffing it. ;) It's bad stuff.
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It has been three days since starting the ozone and without a doubt, it has made quite the difference. I thought my tank water was pretty "clean", but I can now say it must have been quite yellow. I still have what I think is too many particulates floating around the DT, but the clarity of the water is fantastic.
Colours are much more vivid and corals are more open. There does not appear to be any negative affects so far. The ORP is hovering around 320! While the PH has dropped to 8.0 from 8.1 I did have some diatoms in the substrate and rocks before the ozone, that seems to have receded by about 60%, this goes for the algae that was caking the glass as well. The only issue I have now is determining if it was just the ozone or that I lifted up my halide fixture another 2" from top of tank. I also had my daughters 20 gal Seahorse tank connected to the main system. I convinced her to do away with them and turn it into a reef, as she did not clean it properly and I believe that may have been the cause of high nutrients feeding the DT algae. Hmmmm, Maybe sniffing the ozone will make me smarter and I will learn to do one thing at a time to figure out what changes I do, make what differences.... |
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You apparently should clean your ORP probe at least once a month in a vinegar bath. It could take a day for the cleaned probe to read properly again. From what I have read, an ORP of 440 is pretty high and bordering on causing issues for your tank. My understanding is 375 to 400 is a good ORP reading These articles really helped me understand what ORP/ozone is/does and what causes it to fluctuate, even though scientists do not fully understand ORP either. It is dry and technical reading, took me reading it 5 times before it begun to sink in, but the links may clear some things up for you. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/rhf/feature/ http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/rhf/index.php |
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For your two pumps you don't need an electric valve, you need two standard check valves, one on each pump outlet. Then it's a simple matter of using a flow sensor or float switch to determined if the main pump shuts off and trigger the back up.
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I am assuming I should have the back flows, before the inlets? Would I use the Apex BOB to trigger the back up? |
Not sure what you mean by back flows and I'm not an apex guy but I assume you need to use a BOB to connect some sort of sensor to determine pump failure. As far as valves and plumbing goes all you need are the two check valves, one on each pump output and that's it.
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I mean back-flow preventor, same thing as a check valve. Yes, I would use the Apex to sense the pump failure, so it could turn on the back up pump. I was thinking the check valves would be at the inlet , just because of the way the two pumps plumbed together. I was thinking that I had to have the check valves at the inlet side, but the more I think about it, the outlet side makes more sense. I just worry about stagnant water in one of the pumps getting into the tank. |
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Damn it, I was not going to make another project for myself for awhile..... Dunderoz on this thread seems to have a solution http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/fo...hp?f=8&t=12455 |
The sensor could be as simple as float switch in the sump, if main pump fails sump level rises and triggers float which activates back up. Obliviously need a little coding to ensure it doesn't turn back off again once sump level drops or doesn't turn on during maintenance shut downs but that should be pretty basic. Alternatively profilux has a flow sensor available, perhaps it can be adapted to Apex or you could purchase another type of flow sensor that could be adapted.
If it were me I'd just run both pumps together, size the pumps or restrict the flow so each pump puts about 50% of the desired flow to the tank, if one fails you're left with 50% flow which obviously won't effect much. Then there's no controller or sensors to rely on and you achieve the same benefit with less reliability concerns. |
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The sump idea may work, but I do auto water changes etc, all of which shut down the return pump. This would fill the sump to the same level as if the pump had quit. Triggering the back up pump to go on. I will have to think about the ideas and figure out what works with my system.... |
Cultured brick wall
I decided to build a cultured brick (brick veneer) wall. I think it would look cool to have SPS growing off of it as well as some zoas etc.
From my research, it seems to be fine using this type of material in a saltwater tank. I have soaked it in freshwater for about a week and after the silicone cures it can soak in saltwater for another week to be sure. All the materials were laying around the house. I used a piece of 3/16" acrylic to silicone the veneer to. The veneer pieces were 18"w and was exactly the width I needed. It leaves approx 2" on either side of the tank glass, for the powerheads to be mounted to It is tall enough to go from bottom of the tank to the bottom of my overflow weirs. I think I will silicone 3 hooks at the top to "hang" the wall off the weir openings. This way I can take it out if needed to for any reason. Ready to be siliconed http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps1ovz6mag.jpg I like the veneer as there are many shelves to add frags to. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psnpxgpix5.jpg Completed from start to finish in an hour. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psoggqhyy5.jpg Anyone hear of any bad things happening using a veneer in a tank? |
Gave the veneer wall a vinegar both and the coloring started to come off. Scrubbed it good and it took the coloring down about three shades but no m ore is coming off.
I can only assume that would not have been very good, leeching into the tank. |
Hmmmm, this Concept aquarium journal has me somewhat confused and unsure as to if I should continue on in just their journal thread, continue with mine or both....
Will just do my thing as this journal is more for me to look back and see all the tank history... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psbqfnt0gf.png http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pskxxdielh.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pshfqzlsxt.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pslds4hqi6.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psukbibrdh.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psupurihn6.jpg Set up the Swann IP camera again. Not the prettiest of pics from it, but the camera allows me to check the tank anytime, anywhere I want. Have not been able to set it up in the Apex. Their forum and Swann has not helped me figure out a solution yet. Anyone set one of these up in an Apex before? http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps1v3yrfwc.jpg |
Samsung phone pics
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psjkr7kipg.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psnh61c0qc.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pscdh0rhfx.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psehugb3pv.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psdkfn9jfb.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps6nskmqet.jpg I am not sure what this is called. I do know that when I nuked my tank awhile back, it was killed. It had one "head" and the tentacles were about three inches before I nuked the tank. I decided to leave the "shell" in the tank thinking one never knows. About 6 months later you could see the tiniest bit of color begin to come out of it and another 3 months or so it looks like this. Multiple heads and the tentacles are about 1.5" long. Never would have thought it would come alive again. I never throw anything out anymore, just to see what happens. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psngr0wm7t.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pszayk9ap1.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pse1zdam2r.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps6nskmqet.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psx8nplvuu.jpg |
As far as the Concept tank journal goes, just link your build thread in their's. And maybe send Dave a note about it in case you do it wrong or such.
I don't want to rain on your build parade, but seeing you siliconing the brick stuff to acrylic brings up an issue; Silicone and acrylic don't stay bonded for very long, especially if there is any stress/weight involved. Maybe you could come up with a better way to bond them together, or use glass instead. |
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I did link it before, but the instructions were confusing to me. Dave actually started mine in his thread, for me..lol. Lol, I am terrible at putting stuff together properly in my journal. I actually sanded and scored the acrylic really deep and then drilled thru the acrylic so that the silicone would go into the holes and onto the back side, giving it something to bond to. I am hoping that will do the trick. Thank for pointing it out though, if you had not said something, someone might have tried this and did not know to drill or score the acrylic and then a disaster could have happened... |
Not sure if Ozone is the cause or not. Sea Apple appeared healthy in color and size then 2 days ago it shriveled up and was gone within 36 hours. Nothing in the tank appears to be harmed by any of the so called "toxins" from the dead sea apple.
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Wow what a great setup, I'd love to come over and see one day, you did a super job. :first:
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Thanks for the kind words and you are always welcome to come by and say Hi. |
Time for an update..
Once again I am doing everything out of order, but that is ok. My thread, my rules. :) I had time to set up my lights and build a new canopy. I took some pics and put them in a folder and that is when I found the pics that show the wall being ripped out and being rebuilt so the GF could have a saltwater tank again. I started this on a friday night and had it mudded and taped by Sunday This wall divided the front entrance and living room. Pic shows the drywall removed http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psidoogebo.png Looking at the front entrance, from the living room. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps0atghbnm.png and looking from the kitchen..... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pslzufv8dc.png Cut down the bearing wall studs.... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps2tdfwdzj.png Added a 3 1/2" x 9 1/2" x 14' Microlam to carry the load http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pslpqlgdu6.jpg Then I ripped out the old tiles and flooring, cut down the studs to proper elevation and then put the top plate on.... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psamx7l4ao.jpg I can not find the the other pics showing the framing out of another wall to make the top 28" wide, but this gives the idea.... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psycfnsd4g.png Another view...This one showing the laminate flooring installed as well. I used 6x6 for the posts and header, then sheathed with 1" plywood. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pswluddbca.png I do not have pictures, but I tiled the entire top as well. |
This was the first tank, An oceanic 180 Bowfront. It looked good, but never really filled out the space I had built, so I wanted to "upgrade" right away.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps2gp3rpmj.jpg I did not need a center post with the 180.. When I got the 290 gal, I added a 4x4 post in the center for better support. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psn7vo5svt.jpg After a month or so, I checked the header and it had not deflected at all, so I took it out and started the closet doors and shelves. I started this 2 weekends ago. It took a day to complete. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psr5qg9hk1.jpg I salvaged some solid wood doors from a job I was on and made them into shelves. The closet doors we cut down to fit the opening, then I trimmed it all out. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psfmbasjui.jpg I finished all the electrical wiring and and plumbing etc for the tank and closet, so the canopy and lights were the next to attack... |
I have been all over the place with how I was going to do the canopy and lights. Each one affected how to do the other.
I had a 6 ft fixture with 3- 250w halides, 4 80w T5s and some moonlights. It never worked right with my 8' long "CONCEPT" (hint hint) built tank. Trying to find an 8ft fixture was futile and 2 4' just did not work for me Ever since seeing Slyguys tank and how the corals popped, I have tried to get the same effect. I have changed bulbs, type of lights, height from top of tank, added led, took away led, added lots of T5s then took some away etc etc. The final decision came a few weeks ago after the GF hinted about finishing the canopy etc for the one millionth time... Metal halide pendants were the choice as was the decision to rip apart my existing fixture for the 4 80w T5 setup. After pricing everything out, it was cheaper to just rip apart the 5 month old fixture, rather than buy everything new. Add it the fact of having three extra HQI ballasts and all was good. Gutted.. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psm2vknbfs.jpg I found 4 pendants on canreef and scooped them all for 200.00. Cleaned them up and swapped bulbs. Ready to put above the tank. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psj6lw75it.jpg Of course nothing is that easy around here. After measuring the height of the pendant lights, I was not happy with how close they would be to the top of the tank....So.... Only one solution...Cut the drywall ceiling out and install them between the floor joists of the floor above the tank..Oh the GF is not impressed now... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psgbciat8v.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps5t8ljjwa.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psfyqs4i87.jpg Not too bad. 2.5 hours and the holes were laid out, cut and cleaned up...Now I had to vent the heat from between the joists. Off to Home Depot to get a bathroom fan and vent cover... I cut a hole in the soffit to cut the boxer out and then installed the fan, so it would suck out the heat into the roof jacks and voila... Ready for the next step http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pskfpm1s93.jpg I put hooks in the floor sheathing and hung each pendant. Ran the cords thru the joists and down to the Galaxie ballasts, which connected to the Apex..The pendants fit perfectly within the floor joists. Left about 3" to the floor sheathing and I made the openings about 3 inches larger. The pendant glass was flush with the drywall. This gave me about 8" above the tank now. The T5s were installed as well as some strip led lights from Home Depot. The LEDs were for the moonlights. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psqvqowxjc.jpg Lights done, now for the canopy |
It has taken some time and thinking of how to build the canopy. I did not want them on hinges as that would impede what little room I had to access the tank. Drawer sliders were too complicated to design and install, etc etc
I chose to use a friction fit design. I had cupboard doors from the salvage, that were the same wood and stain, so that decision was easy... Cut to size. http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psctrzqydv.jpg Now to design the friction fit...I always found a trip to Home Depot will help with figuring out the design of stuff.See what there is and if I can incorporate it into the build... I picked up some felt pads, a few black, rectangular, aluminum hand rail pickets, cabinet door magnets, screws and the design was done in my head and the result was... This http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psbjjkwqns.jpg The pieces were cut to size, then I pre-drilled some holes in the picket and screwed it to the wood. Added the felt pads to the underside of the picket, so the aluminum does not touch the glass. I also added some to the face for safety sakes. Last thing was to install the door magnets. These would hold it from tipping outwards and the felt pads helped keep the friction fit , nice and tight. With the 2 pieces up http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psbajxgsu4.jpg One off http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps8mhl2xl2.jpg Both off http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psqvqowxjc.jpg Other side http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pszedvrhm1.jpg Still need to finish this up http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psvnqjuujl.jpg I will hinge the end piece so that it can be swung down easily to feed the fish etc... http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...ps05soirc1.jpg Misc pics of the canopy and lights http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psejdun3v5.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psedaeflyn.jpg http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psbeyegtug.jpg Cabinet magnets http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psae6ztz8w.jpg Inside the canopy http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psejdun3v5.jpg |
My OCD is driving me nuts looking at your sump room wiring hahah. :mrgreen:
Nice big setup - DT is in a cool location. |
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Thanks. I think the location worked out well. |
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