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BTW always add acid to water and not the other way around. |
Thanks and yea haha read that
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in 15G water with LR in it how much Acid should i add ? this Acid sold in 1G |
15 gal ÷100×30 =4.5 galons
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Calcite will attract and bind phospahtes just as gfo does. It chemically binds it. If any level of po4 is present it will quickly bind to calcite and can do so until saturation. This goes for any calcium carbonate structure.
Most dry rock/live rock will more then likey come from three sources, either a fellow reefer, inland mining or lagoonal waters. All of which have ample levels of po4. But it doesn't matter where it came from. If you have dry rock, you have bound po4. It's means of freeing up bound po4 has been removed. The only differnce between live rock and dry rock in terms of what happends with bound po4 is the bacterial proccess that take place that break the bond. Healty live rock is self cleaning if given the appropriate environment to do so. An enviromnet with po4 levels greater then that of which the bacteria can utilize, the calcite structure slowly fills up to the point of saruration. This is why live rock can come with just as much bound po4 as dry. And this is why dry WILL have bound po4. It's there wether a person wants to believe it or not. Wether it is of concern to an individual or not, well that is up to the user. But for those who want to deal with what WILL be bound po4 prior to indroduction into a system then there are many great ways to achieve this. For live rock and dry rock. Cooking is best. Dry rock. Bleach, acid is the quickest and simplest. But keep in mind that the acid will remove a layer or rock which is bound with po4. A good thing. But by doing so you also now expose new calcite free of po4. As soon as this calcite comes back into contact with po4.... Well... Why it's the second best option. I myself use the latter. Many aslo have great success and little to no issue purging in tank. Don't want denny to feel left out. Lol. But if your not going to follow any of that up with proper husbandry practices for keeping your calcium carbonate structures healthy. Then don't bother. Your destined for algae problems despite the rock then. |
I dont have any Algae problem but my phosphate is 2.0 i tested with API test kit but my corals lost color
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I hope in the next week I can do the acid bath again. This time I'll go a few hours.
Just a quick question. When you do the acid bath are you guys finding you end up with a bunch of rubble that you never had before? I'd like for my rocks to stay as much in tact as I can get |
The only rubble I got was from me banging my rocks together. You needn't worry.
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So what is the alternative to acid bathing ? Simply allowing the rock to sit in a rubbermaid with a heater and powerhead ? If so how long does this process take vs acid bathing ?
I've got about 65lbs of magnificent pukani and shelf rock on it's way from Eli and want to make sure I understand both options ... |
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I did another 3 hour acid bath for my rocks.
It did a much better job, but still left a bunch of dark brown crap on the rocks. The water it came out of was nasty, so although I still have stuff on my rocks I know a lot of it is now gonzo! |
Nice dude!
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What's the suggested bath time ? Does it depend on the amount of rock ?
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Remember that these rocks aren't necessarily pure calcium carbonate - there's probably plenty of mineral contaminates in the rock that were either laid down by the corals themselves, or precipitated out through various chemical processes after the corals that built the rock died trapped within them.
A little discolouration at the end of the whole process wouldn't surprise me in the least, and you might need to dissolve the entire rock to truly get it all out. |
In 40-50 gallons water how much bleach should I put in ? Thanks
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Add 1 part bleach to 10 parts water. Same ratio for acid. Always add chemical to water, not the other way around.
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