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-   Lighting Specific (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=173)
-   -   Ok, let's hear it! (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=101184)

brizzo 10-02-2013 08:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaSteve (Post 848948)
For the small tank I'm loving the LED because there is no other way of generating that much light in a small package without cooking the tank, so I say that LED wins for nano tanks hands down. The fact that I am growing SPS in my nano without any filtration as fast (maybe even faster) than my big tank with equally good coloration has me as a firm believer. That said, I find the light at high noon just lacks the same oomph that my halide has.

On the big tank the MH is a rocks star. It just looks awesome. You get great shimmer lines (without the disco effect that LEDs give you), so the tank tends to look more lively and natural. I find T5 look a little flat as a main lighting option.

So what I'm now thinking might happen is that I'm going to try a DIY replacement for the T5s on my halide fixture and put in a mix of RB, TV and RGB.
I couldn't agree more with this post.

Recently switched from 150w mh, to a diy setup with 12 blue 12 white (xt-e/xp-g). I've been very happy with the color, intensity, and dimming.

That being said, it's perfect for a tank my size. SPS has been growing nicely since the switch, and some new colors have come out. I think it's hard to compare different LED systems because they come in so many flavors, but I think there is something to be said about how my leds are maybe 2 inches above the water... (no coverage issues)

If I had a bigger tank (when), I wouldn't second guess building with mh + led combo

SeaHorse_Fanatic 10-02-2013 10:01 PM
I love my LEDs and would not go back. At my most insane, was running 3x250w DE & 6x150w DE, but these were each drawing a bit more so over 2000 watts of power and it was so hot in the summer from the lights that I had to run a 12000 btu AC and/or switch to reverse photoperiod.

This summer, probably the hottest and sunniest in Greater Vancouver since I've lived here (since the 70s), never once had heat issues or had to reverse my photoperiod or setup my AC.

My 165g main tank went from drawing roughly 600w in halide alone, to 280w max (12 x 10w Blues - 6@454nm & 6@445nm) (16 x 10w Whites - mix of 6500k; 10000k & 20000k)

My 2' cube went from 150w halide to 50w LED (3x10w blues and 2x10w whites) same mix as with the main tank lights.

The RSM 34g currently has an Eshine 60w Cree

StirCrazy 10-02-2013 11:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 848913)
I still had to run my chiller even with LED, so no savings there

you do know, you need MH lights on a reef. :wink:

H2o2 10-02-2013 11:51 PM
not sure
 
I am in the starting stage of a new tank setup so I have been adding fish and corals for about 8 months . I have the 60" sunbrite V2 which I love the iphone programing + 60" of vertex Illumilux Marino blue for dawn and dusk and pop because they pop but I find myself right now in the process of adding 4 54w T5s just because my corals are just not there like they used to be in my old tank with the MH and T5s especially the purples , I now different tank but I want to try it and see , so the 100 $ every 6 months + power and heat (still have my chiller ) I will have to deal with but I have to try

Aquattro 10-03-2013 02:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy (Post 849012)
you do know, you need MH lights on a reef. :wink:
I know that, and I would if I had a better way to vent the humidity. But the T5 should be an acceptable compromise. :)

gregzz4 10-03-2013 03:02 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 848876)
Although, if I can figure out how to run a controllable blue LED strip down the center of my fixture, I will add that for dawn/dusk effect
Does it need to be 'controlled', or just 'on and off' ?

StirCrazy 10-03-2013 03:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 849065)
I know that, and I would if I had a better way to vent the humidity. But the T5 should be an acceptable compromise. :)
ya but you know T5's are good for nothing but accent lighting..

Steve

waynemah 10-03-2013 03:33 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy (Post 849068)
ya but you know T5's are good for nothing but accent lighting..

Steve
I really hope I'm missing the inside joke here. :sad:

Delphinus 10-03-2013 03:38 AM
Of all the lighting I tried I really liked the Radium 400's the best.

The LED's I have right now are OK, it's kinda neat to see clouds pass over the reef and have a few more dusk/dawn effects and so on but the tank just isn't the thermonuclear bright reef that it used to be.

I'd have stayed with Radiums if it hadn't gotten harder to source them.

I think of all the times I went to Concept and asked for Radiums then they would say "Ya' we have Radions". "No, Radiums." "Ya! Radions!" It was like a bad who's on first skit.

Aquattro 10-03-2013 03:40 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 849067)
Does it need to be 'controlled', or just 'on and off' ?
Ideally controlled via Apex

kien 10-03-2013 03:53 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphinus (Post 849075)
The LED's I have right now are OK
Whoa, hold the phone! I had no idea you switched to LEDs! What did you end up hanging over the tank?

gregzz4 10-03-2013 03:58 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 849078)
Ideally controlled via Apex
Sooo then, they have to be dimmable ?

I could give you numerous links to waterproof led strips in the 460-470nm range if you're only looking for 'on/off'

Aquattro 10-03-2013 04:16 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 (Post 849083)
Sooo then, they have to be dimmable ?

I could give you numerous links to waterproof led strips in the 460-470nm range if you're only looking for 'on/off'
dimmable, yes. It's the one feature I'll miss with T5s

Aquattro 10-03-2013 04:17 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynemah (Post 849073)
I really hope I'm missing the inside joke here. :sad:
Yes, Steve and I used to battle over this all the time :)

Delphinus 10-03-2013 04:18 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kien (Post 849080)
Whoa, hold the phone! I had no idea you switched to LEDs! What did you end up hanging over the tank?
In a weak moment of not being able to order Radiums, a couple used Mitras came up on the market. :redface:

gregzz4 10-03-2013 04:22 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 849089)
dimmable, yes. It's the one feature I'll miss with T5s
You can buy dimmable T5 ballasts ... 1-10v

I can't help you with the day/dusk LEDs if you want them dimmable

gregzz4 10-03-2013 04:33 AM
OK, I'm dyin' here to post them for someone, so, here's some LED strips you can add to your fixture for blues/actinics
All are close to or between 460nm to 470nm and are waterproof strips that you cut to length and add your own power supply

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...light-bar/123/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...-light-bar/48/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ght-strip/103/

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ght-strip/102/

Jaws 10-03-2013 06:08 AM
I have a question: For those that are considering doing a T5/LED combo light, what combo do you think is the right combo? Since most LED fixtures are primarily Royal Blues and Whites, what's the ideal T5 additions in your opinions?

typezero 10-03-2013 06:19 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaws (Post 849108)
I have a question: For those that are considering doing a T5/LED combo light, what combo do you think is the right combo? Since most LED fixtures are primarily Royal Blues and Whites, what's the ideal T5 additions in your opinions?
With my ATi hybrid, I added 3 blue plus, and 1 coral plus bulb. Blue LEDs are very blue but the spectrum they emit are very narrow so a florescent blue bulb would cover more spectrum's that may or may not be important for coral coloration.

My take on LEDs is why are companies keep upgrading their white LEDs and keep developing them. Most tanks out there cant run their whites 100% without burning corals, I would like them to concentrate development more on blue/royal blue/ any beneficial colours. I run all my blues 100%, even back in the SOL days with 40 degree optics they did not burn anything, but then ramp up 2% whites I start to see paleness.

typezero 10-03-2013 06:26 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by jorjef (Post 848978)
I would take that with a grain of salt. A person would be less likely to complain about a problem with a low end light vs. one they just paid big bucks for. If an owner of a ebay special light pukes out I would think the "oh well it was cheap" mentality would come into play.
With MJCs frag tanks, all lit with LED + T5, we find the tank with CREE brand LEDs + T5 get more intense coloration than our Bridgelux brand LEDs + T5s. The difference is subtle to dramatic depending on the coral, also the colouration of CREEs are nicer than their Bridgelux counterpart IMO.

thmh 10-03-2013 01:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynemah (Post 849073)
I really hope I'm missing the inside joke here. :sad:
One of the best tank I've seen is running 8 bulb ati, you have nothing to worry about Wayne. It's all about bulb combination.

~Tony

waynemah 10-03-2013 03:06 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by thmh (Post 849144)
One of the best tank I've seen is running 8 bulb ati, you have nothing to worry about Wayne. It's all about bulb combination.

~Tony
For now I'm going 3 Blue+, 3 Aquablue Special and 2 Purple+. Worst case scenario is I kill everything and start over (love watching frags turn into colonies).

lastlight 10-03-2013 03:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by thmh (Post 849144)
One of the best tank I've seen is running 8 bulb ati, you have nothing to worry about Wayne. It's all about bulb combination.

~Tony
and prayers!

thmh 10-03-2013 03:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynemah (Post 849159)
For now I'm going 3 Blue+, 3 Aquablue Special and 2 Purple+. Worst case scenario is I kill everything and start over (love watching frags turn into colonies).
I would do 4 blue +, 2 coral+ and 2 purple +.

~Tony

kien 10-03-2013 03:10 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynemah (Post 849159)
Worst case scenario is I kill everything and start over (love watching frags turn into colonies).
I like your attitude :biggrin:

Are you new to T5s? I don't recall hearing anyone say they bleached their corals from T5s. T5 light is so uniform, enveloping and smooth. It doesn't blast out light like LEDs and halides. The only sucky thing is having to replace all those bulbs. Some people replace T5s every 6 months :surprise:

kien 10-03-2013 03:11 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by lastlight (Post 849160)
and prayers!
+ brazillion!

LoJack 10-03-2013 03:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by thmh (Post 849144)
One of the best tank I've seen is running 8 bulb ati, you have nothing to worry about Wayne. It's all about bulb combination.

~Tony
Glad you think I have one of the nicest tanks ever ... Just Kidding lol

But seriously, this is the same reason I bought the ATI 8 Bulb. The nicest tank I've ever seen is the July 2010 TOTM on ReefCentral by Lunar

He runs a 10 bulb powermodule, but I bought the 8 bulb Sunpower because thats what I had room for.

And with active cooling, bulbs are good for a year with the ATI fixtures as opposed to 6-8 months with most others.

I love T-5 ... I won't change as long as it's available.

kien 10-03-2013 03:36 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoJack (Post 849170)
Glad you think I have one of the nicest tanks ever ... Just Kidding lol

But seriously, this is the same reason I bought the ATI 8 Bulb. The nicest tank I've ever seen is the July 2010 TOTM on ReefCentral by Lunar

He runs a 10 bulb powermodule, but I bought the 8 bulb Sunpower because thats what I had room for.

And with active cooling, bulbs are good for a year with the ATI fixtures as opposed to 6-8 months with most others.

I love T-5 ... I won't change as long as it's available.
We've had a few TOTMs on here that ran T5s as well. Lobsterboy's and Fishytime's tanks just to name a couple. Both of those tanks definitely inspired me when I was but a reef padawan back in the day. T5s rock!

Coralgurl 10-03-2013 06:24 PM
Interesting thread, has me thinking. I ran a 2 bulb T5 unit and supplemented with LEDs. I had amazing coral growth with this combo, great colors (no sps), to the point that my corals were too big for the tank. I moved to Radions on my 180 and have lost every single one of my first three corals. Not to bleaching or anything, not exactly sure why they died. some corals have done amazingly well, others, not so much. I do know I am not seeing the same success on the 180 to what I saw in the 55. Is it lights, is it maintenance, not sure, but definitely something to think about.

lastlight 10-03-2013 07:10 PM
http://www.fishbrains.net/images/93/leds_suck.jpg

Madreefer 10-03-2013 07:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhasan (Post 848926)
Try touching the heatsink; I dare you ;)

The thing is, both LEDs and MH "runs" hot but MH "dissipates" heat (and light) omnidirectionally (since its a round bulb) and cannot be fitted with heat sink to take away the heat. On the other hand, LEDs dissipates heat bidirectionally but emits light unidirectionally and so can be fitted with heat sink on the opposite side with heat sink to take away the heat. And hence the "runs cooler" market hype :razz: If some sort of technology comes which allows MH to be fitted with heat, that market tag line is going to be buried.
They are not hot at all. Even after running at 100% for hours. I have fixtures with built in fans and other ones without them.

mrhasan 10-03-2013 07:20 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 849228)
They are not hot at all. Even after running at 100% for hours. I have fixtures with built in fans and other ones without them.
Heat sinks are meant to be hot. They taken the heat from the LEDs and dissipate them to the air but not at a rate which makes it run cool (heatsinks have a maximum heat capacity and stays below that or else the heat sink is not the right one for the system). Don't know why yours run cool :neutral: Probably you are using oversized heat sink?

sphelps 10-03-2013 07:31 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhasan (Post 849232)
Heat sinks are meant to be hot. They taken the heat from the LEDs and dissipate them to the air but not at a rate which makes it run cool (heatsinks have a maximum heat capacity and stays below that or else the heat sink is not the right one for the system). Don't know why yours run cool :neutral: Probably you are using oversized heat sink?
Ahhh..... wrong :lol:

LEDs produce a large amount of heat per area which can seem high because of there size but overall is very little. The junction temperature (between LED and heat sink) needs to be kept relatively cool to insure the LEDs don't overheat, in order to do this the heat sink has to be large enough and kept cool enough to maintain allowable LED temperatures. The cooler the heatsink the better the LEDs work and the longer they last. Most heat sinks probably run around 25-30°C.

mrhasan 10-03-2013 07:35 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 849234)
Ahhh..... wrong :lol:

LEDs produce a large amount of heat per area which can seem high because of there size but overall is very little. The junction temperature (between LED and heat sink) needs to be kept relatively cool to insure the LEDs don't overheat, in order to do this the heat sink has to be large enough and kept cool enough to maintain allowable LED temperatures. The cooler the heatsink the better the LEDs work and the longer they last. Most heat sinks probably run around 25°C.
Is the number that low? I remember burning myself by touching the heatsink of a DC PSU. I am sure the heat sink doesn't run boiling hot but still 25 is much more lower than what I thought (my guess was around 50-60 :razz:)

Madreefer 10-03-2013 07:37 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhasan (Post 849232)
Heat sinks are meant to be hot. They taken the heat from the LEDs and dissipate them to the air but not at a rate which makes it run cool (heatsinks have a maximum heat capacity and stays below that or else the heat sink is not the right one for the system). Don't know why yours run cool :neutral: Probably you are using oversized heat sink?
No just what my fixtures come with.
I've had or still own: Sol Blues, Sol Hydras, Zetlight and Ecoexotic Panorama Pros.
I know how heat sinks work so no explanation needed. Speaking from actual experience rather than something i've read.:biggrin:

sphelps 10-03-2013 07:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrhasan (Post 849236)
Is the number that low? I remember burning myself by touching the heatsink of a DC PSU. I am sure the heat sink doesn't run boiling hot but still 25 is much more lower than what I thought (my guess was around 50-60 :razz:)
Obviously the operating temperature will vary for different devices, not sure why you would compare LED temperatures requirements to that of a power supply.

mrhasan 10-03-2013 08:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Madreefer (Post 849237)
No just what my fixtures come with.
I've had or still own: Sol Blues, Sol Hydras, Zetlight and Ecoexotic Panorama Pros.
I know how heat sinks work so no explanation needed. Speaking from actual experience rather than something i've read.:biggrin:
:lol: I previously used to get "flamed" for not explaining my thoughts properly so I take the time :mrgreen: :redface:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 849243)
Obviously the operating temperature will vary for different devices, not sure why you would compare LED temperatures requirements to that of a power supply.
I didn't touch any led's heat sink yet but I thought.....you know....hey...heat sinks...:razz::redface:

kien 10-03-2013 08:17 PM
Forget the heat sinks! Steve, tell us what you think about the hybrid LED+T5 fixtures.

sphelps 10-03-2013 08:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by kien (Post 849254)
Forget the heat sinks! Steve, tell us what you think about the hybrid LED+T5 fixtures.
no comment

kien 10-03-2013 08:24 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 849255)
no comment
WHUT?! Oh come on. Don't hold back now.


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