I checked mine after my last fill and my TDS was sitting at 156 within a week after the floods. I don't run mine into a drain until I get 0 on my outline (straight into the Brute) and I've never checked the water in the bin. I don't have an algae problem, just a blue clove problem so I figure its all good. :lol:

same thing here. I only replace my membrane when it is at 10 or 12 tds.

Never has a problem.

I tried using the auto shut off on my system when I first set it up. Could never get the waste water to stop running even after the float valve had closed for some time. I played around with the auto shut off valve a bit, even disassembling it, but still could not get it to work as advertised with any sort of confidence in it's reliability. I've been manually turning the water on/off now for years when I make water. This way I can flush at start up & again when I shut down. I use a timer to remind me to check the storage container. Had the odd minor flood due to inattention, but nothing major. I now have a battery powered water detector on the floor that alerts me if I forget about the timer. It beeps very loudly!

As others have mentioned, with your low incoming TDS on the coast, you folks are very fortunate. My source water is usually over 200 TDS. Only time it's lower is when they change the source from Kal Lake to Duteau Creek, which is not very often. Duteau Creek source is generally in the 30's for TDS.

I recently added a second Dual TDS meter to my system so I can monitor source water TDS before & after the pre filters as well as before the RO membrane & the DI output. I was quite suprised to find that during the first 5 or so minutes of running the system, the TDS after the pre filters (5 micron sediment, 1 micron sediment & 0.5 micron carbon block) reads noticeably higher than the incoming source water. My theory on this is that while the system is sitting idle for days, possibly even a week, the sediment & solids that are trapped in the pre filters actually dissolve in the stagnant water resulting in higher TDS downstream once the system is started up again. After 5 minutes or so, the TDS after the pre filters levels out at a few points below the source water TDS.

No wonder folks with overly automated RO systems that turn on/off in short cycles generally end up with higher TDS water at the output, along with increased wear & tear on system components. I'm still using the original 75 gpd membrane (over 5 years now) & manage to get 1 TDS after RO with over 200 TDS source water. I like to think this is because of my routine of manually turning water on, flushing for 2-3 minutes before switching the restrictor on, dumping the first half gallon or so of RO water and flushing again when I manually shut the system down. And before running anything through the DI media, I always make about 5 gallons of RO only for drinking water, pop, beer & wine making. This ensures the RO output is as low as it's going to get before I switch the DI into the loop. My first batch of DI media lasted about 4 - 5 years this way.

I usually make my water in large batches. I always flush my RO membrane until the TDS reaches 0. Usually about 3-4 mins.

I have a 10 gallon ATO tank and a 25 or 30 gallon ish brute container for salt.

I've always thought about using an electronic shutoff valve at the inlet and use my apex with a float valve to turn on or off. That way the pressure through the RO membrane remains fairly constant.

This option would work for you or get a DI. I don't think I've changed my DI resin for at least 6 buckets of salt and a year's worth of ATO.

In the end you'll probably end up paying the same amount of money.

I've gone through 2 RO pre-filters since the floods began, and I've only done a single 50 gallon water change. 3 TDS is what I aim for considering the input.