There is your problem, a quarentine system should be void of rock and sand.

Ich can survive on/in it when not on fish

A QT system "should" be a fresh system with places for the fish to hide, using water from the DT

Everyones QT system can vary though

Good stuff, thanks for the feed back. He is swimming around and enjoying life, also eating lots. I mixed up a batch of raw shimp and fresh crushed garlic, I will feed this for the next little while and monitor him.

use a garlic concentrate mixed in when thawing food. This way the food will be soaked with it, he may not take the minced garlic

Sorry, but I disagree about not having LR in a quarantine.
ich needs a host to reproduce. without it, it will die.
after feeding on the host, it drops off and it becomes a Trophont.
it will stay in this stage regardless if there is live rock, sand or nothing at all.
it then hatches typically within 6 - 10 and must find a host within 2 days to survive.
not sure what Ken meant by Ich can survive on LR when not on fish.
if no fish host, the ich dies within 48 hours after hatching.
I would highly recommend that you use live rock in your quarantine.
otherwise you could potentially deal with spikes in ammonia and so forth.
Chances are you probably had ICH in your tank from before.
Or the Harlequin had it during the quarantine and you may have missed the signs.
like others have said, I wouldn't stress out too much as ich is in most tanks and will tyically not kill a happy, healthy fish.
trying to catch him will stress the whole tank out which will increase the chances of others starting to show symptoms as well.
just want to clarify that garlic is not a cure, it will just increase the fish likeliness to eat which in turn increases their immune system.
eating fish are typically healthier fish.

good luck

Here a good reed from www.reefkeeping.com

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php

In the Biology section has a decent explanation of the lifecycle of Ich. Also possible treatments, and how garlic can be used (section 2).
You did say you had the Tuskfish in with the clown, were they added at the same or different times.

That's not good enough. If you did not QT with copper or do the hypo routine, you could still transfer ich to your DT.

I had this happen to me last year. I normally do the hypo routine, and have been 100% successful with that. However, last year, because I was also QTing some new inverts at the same time, I couldn't do the hypo, and just kept them all together in QT for 6 weeks.

The new fish looked fine, and there was no sign of ich, so I transferred them to my DT. About a month later, I noticed some ich in my DT (which had been clean for almost 2 years) and before long I had a full blown ich outbreak. It took me 2 more months of diligent feeding and frequent water changes before the ich ran its course and subsided. Unfortunately, I did lose 2 of my favorite fish, but all the rest survived OK. Ironically, none of the new fish got ich or showed symptoms, but they were obviously carriers. Maybe they were already immune to that strain of ich.

So just QTing fish for 6 weeks, without any treatment does not guarantee anything. My recommendation is hypo, though, not copper.

Sounds like you just put the fish in observation rather than really proactively quarantine them. By my definition of quarantine (for marine ich), you need to use one of several proven ways of eradicating marine ich, like hypo/copper/tank transfer/chloroquine phosphate.
Since your tank is a fish only. It will be easy if you decide to treat ich on the spot.
And I can't stress enough of quarantining all your fish in general. There are stuff out there that are more dangerous than marine ich if you don't quarantine your fish. You don't want to loose all your fish, especially if you have a tank full of fish you have collected over the years.

You need to do your due diligence before you buy the fish. This wrasse goes to 6 or more inches and need to be in a tank more than double the sise. If the lfs knew you have a tiny tank and sold you the fish anyway return the fish to the lfs for a full credit and get something suitable for it size.

If your wrasse is eating, feed it garlic soaked foods with some selcon. Dry is better because it absorbs the garlic,
Feef very often and only garlic soaked food as the idea is to get as much into the fish in the shortest amount of time as possible.
Good luck

Originally Posted by sully08 http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/ima...s/viewpost.gif
......I moved him over to his new home last night which is a well established 220g fish only......


You need to pay more attention to what you read Naesco, unless you mean the tusk needs to be in a tank that is at least 440g :razz:

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