I'm no expert, but here are a few tips:

1) Shoot straight through the glass. Shooting at angles relative to the glass can cause distortion.

2) Tripods can help.

3) Post processing software. I use Lightroom.

4) Turn off pumps and allow aquarium to settle for a few minutes. This gets rid of micro bubbles and any other small debris in the water column.

read the manual it came with every camera is difference
heck a quick google search works wonders http://vimeo.com/39037912

wooohhh ok lol.. first of all i lost my manual, second of all i hate google and all that crap!!!
thats why im on her lol

perhaps you can download a manual for your camera from the manufacturer's website. If you don't want to put the effort into google or trying to find a manual yourself I would question why you're in this hobby to begin with.

Some people are just not good with computers and the thought of finding something via Google can be scary. I'm not saying this is the case with Ace but I have seen plenty of people who cringe when it comes to using technology.

Here is your manual in PDF format. Click the link below and download the file and it should open fine. If it does not open so you can read it then you will have to download the Acrobat reader which I can help you with.

snaz.com/marine/eosrt3i-eos600d-im2-c-en.pdf

thank snaz!! works great. at least some people understand others... lol molotov, id rather put all my time into work and my tank. ohh yea and MY KIDS!!!!!
thanks again snaz.
im ok with computers. i would also like to have this stuff on this site for future people looking for this too on canreef, as this camera is pretty popular to alot of people.

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...61006056_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...02001195_n.jpg

To take these photos, I used Tv mode on the SLR, which means I forced it to use a certain shutter speed and the computer calculates the rest (aperture, auto ISO). Specifically, I used a tripod and forced the shutter to stay open for 1.6 seconds. This meant that the computer would have used the smallest aperture so that the photo wasn't over exposed. Another effect of a small aperture is that the field of depth is wide so most of the subject is in focus.

Exact specs are: Shutter 1.6s, aperture f/16, ISO 100, manual focus
Equipment: Canon 5D mkII, lens EF 50mm f/1.2 L USM, tripod, 20mm Kinko tube to shorten focal length
Editing: shot in RAW, used Canon Digital Professional, increased brightness/contrast/saturation/sharpness, cropped, and exported to 1200 pixel (long side) size

Don't fuss the details too much, most important things were the $30 tripod, shutting off the powerhead, and using Tv mode at 1.6 seconds (lots of light from my 250w metal halide in a 20" deep tank, if your light is dimmer, use a longer shutter speed)

beautiful RBTA will this rbta grow ?
where did you buy this ?

RBTA = rose bubble tip anemone?
This is a close-up of a Euphyllia I believe (LPS). You can see the skeleton of a head that died at the top in the middle of the cluster. Gold Aquarium in Calgary called it a hammer coral... although there's definitely specimens out there with more "hammer-like" tentacle tips.

In fact, I just got it yesterday and took the photo just hours after plugging it in the tank.

Hey thanks Reef_Geek for those settings. I used them successfully to shot a nice shot of my chalice.
http://snaz.com/marine/ap12005.jpg

The Kinko tube seems kind of expensive for what is essentially a hollow tube right? What makes one better than another if there are no optics?

Sorry for the thread hijack Ace. :lol: