Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board

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- Marine Fish (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=122)

- - Quarantine time? (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=86704)

burgerchow

05-27-2012 04:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot (Post 719803)

How are you going to keep the tank sterile with fish eating and pooping? That's how ammonia starts up. You can treat it with all kinds of stuff, but not sure how your fish are going to like it, along with the copper, etc. Why not do it right with a fully cycled QT.

I have never used copper. I think common Ich is often mistaken for MV. The hypo routine is a lot easier on your fish, and using recycled display tank water to bring the salinity back up means they will be fully acclimatized when you're ready to move them to their permanent home.

If you are going to buy $400 fish, shouldn't you be giving them the best possible start in their new home?

Of course I would have a canister or job filter, and would start off with water from display tank. I thought I wouldn't have to say that.

marie

05-27-2012 05:42 AM

Don't try to rush the quarantine process, the fish should be with you for a possible 15 to 20 yrs.... a few extra weeks before it goes into the display is nothing.

Reef Pilot

05-27-2012 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgerchow (Post 719813)

Of course I would have a canister or job filter, and would start off with water from display tank. I thought I wouldn't have to say that.

Sorry, when you said sterile tank, I thought you were setting up a new QT that is not fully cycled, and were trying to short cut that process, too. You did state you had never QT'ed before. It takes at least a few weeks, or more, to get a canister filter fully cycled. How long have you had your QT and canister filter running?

If your QT is fully cycled with a working canister filter, then you don't need the UV or Ozone. But I wouldn't cut the time short in the QT, if you want to be sure the new fish are healthy and strong before moving to the display tank.

And I wouldn't use copper either. Why not give your new $400 fish the best start possible?

Aquattro

05-27-2012 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reef Pilot (Post 719838)

And I wouldn't use copper either. Why not give your new $400 fish the best start possible?

Agreed. Essentially you're poisoning the fish with copper.

burgerchow

05-27-2012 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro (Post 719843)

Agreed. Essentially you're poisoning the fish with copper.

Ok, but what about blasting the tank with uv? That should kill all parasites and speed up the process shouldn't it?
My thinking is that these very expensive fish might be more susceptible to ich and other pathogens , cause being rare, the collection and shipping process would be sped up. For ex. They catch it and ship it the very next day. Doesn't even stay in a tank for a few days. (that's what I would do if I was in that business) once shipped, it's the responsibility of the buyer. This puts a lot of stress on the fish, that's why I'm thinking of quarantining it if I buy one.
Actually, it's because I saw a goldflake angel at j&l the other day dyeing.

shootingstar

05-27-2012 04:52 PM

If I recall uv is only potentially effective (there are different opinions) at one stage of the ICH parasite life span, that being the short window when it is free swimming.

Using UV for a couple of days could only be considered "maybe effective" during that short stage. If the parasite is in a different stage of development blasting the water column with UV will do nothing towards reducing ICH.

Megalodon

06-04-2012 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgerchow (Post 719796)

But what if you have a sterile tank, say bare glass, treated with copper, a strong uv light and maybe even ozone. Theoretically speaking, any hitch-hiking parasites should die quickly. Wouldn't that speed up the quarantine process?

I've been lucky so far,but when seahorse told me about his bout with velvet, might start to do it, especially for $400 plus fish

Nope, the UV won't eradicate your tank and fish of ick. Only copper and hyposalinity can do that, and I wouldn't recommend copper because it's harmful to the fish and increases their mortality rate substantially. The best thing is hyposalinity in addition to certain other medications as necessary.

Here's a good article...

"Hyposalinity can be employed in better acclimating recently transported fish, for quarantine, treating wounds, with antibiotics, getting fish to begin eating, conserving metabolic energy, improving growth and alleviating the effects of stress."

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/6/fish

daniella3d

06-05-2012 01:02 AM

YOu could, but copper is too toxic to be used as prevention.

I generally use Seachem Paraguard for 3 to 4 weeks in my QT. This would take care of ick and brooklynella.

UV don't do much for parasites already on the fish and for those that do not pass through the UV.

A UV does not kill the parasites at all, it just control their numbers. It cannot get them all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by burgerchow (Post 719812)

Ok, but I thought the main purpose of quarantining a fish was to make sure it had no pathogens and parasites that could infect the other fish in your display tank. If I treat it in quarantine, ok say I just use a 50 watt uv for a week in a 20 gal, and the fish remains healthy and is eating, wouldn't you think it would be safe for the display?
I've never had to quarantine fish before, but only because I don't buy fish that have just arrived at Lfs. I usually wait til they've been in the tank at the Lfs for at least a month.

The fish I'm considering is a goldflake angel. Might have to special order it, which means I have to pick it up shortly after it arrives at Lfs.

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