Looking good. That pump looks like it's already put in a few good years!

Thx, it is coming along ok.

The pump was in the box of my truck on the way home on a gravel road, hence the dust. I think it is 2010 model, based on the seller and the dates on all the PVC and spa flex it came with and used on a FW tank. Also came with 3 2" double union ball valves and a 2" check valve. Kijiji is my friend :)

I was able to wet test the tank with the closed loop and refugium off line for now. All is good. The overflow is HUGE and works very well. The Bean Animal drains work great and are dead silent when dialed in. I'm using a Mag Drive 12 wide open without issue.

Hoping to complete the other items soon and get this baby in place!


http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de08-100b-0b0b.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de08-1020-c046.jpg

Refugium is drilled now and in place, fed by a tiny pump from the raw tank water chamber and through a ball valve for control. It feeds the return area via gravity through a 1.5" line. A ball valve here can isolate the refugium and DSB.

The closed loop is fed by a 1.5" empty foot valve and through a ReeFlo Barracuda pump. The manifold is a spa part with 8 .5" outputs. Each output is plumbed separately and through a union and ball valve. It really gets the water moving.

If things run smooth for a few days I will empty it and move it from the garage to the basement.

I have the option of using a typical stand (viewable 3 sides) or built in to the wall (viewable 1 side). Any suggestions???

http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de52-c16d-20eb.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de52-c183-bb5a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de52-c198-dbdb.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/b897de52-c1bc-2be4.jpg

I love your CL set-up, should work out great. As for the open or in wall set-up, I love the look of my in wall, but it is a pain to access most of the tank. With a 200 it would even be harder to reach the front bottom of the tank. Well worth doing if you plan on having a step ladder close by all the time though, really makes everything look finished and neat, even if behind the wall is a mess of hoses and wires like mine.

I would add 6 more of those feet if it was me. Reasons: there only 1/2" bolts and not structual bolts, your stand is only 1/8" thick tube & the bolts you used are very tiny and don't take much force to break.

Another solution i see greg, if you will help me with this(either criticize or elaborate) I noticed that the ends of the tubes where the feet screw into are open. What you can do to solve the issue of having all the weight transfered to only the outer edges of the tubing is insert a block like this through the ends to line up with the bolts.

http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...86/Concept.jpg

The block would have to be a very snug fit but it will properly transfer the weight of the tank from the pillars down through the block and into the threaded foot bracket instead of through the pillars and into the very thin walls of the square tubing which would buckle under the weight over time.


but greg is one hundred percent bang on about the 1/2 bolts.....they should be at least 3/4" bolts.....but, if you were to insure that no more then 3/16" of thread was out it would REDUCE the risk of snapping the bolts but it wouldnt be a full garuantee....

I would have opted more for drilling right though the tube, 1/4" square washer plate both side with a nut on both sides. But still add more feet.

The feet are rated for 900 lbs each with the flanged nuts used. They are designed for industrial machines, not from Home Depot. With only 6 uprights on the stand adding more feet won't help anything at all, thats just physics. I'm quite sure that I'll stay under the 5400 lb capacity.

Sure but what are the little screws / bolts that are holding them on threw very thin tube wall rated for? That's your weak point.

Other wise I am digging the build, looks great! Can you show me how you did the inside of the OF piping?