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The front horizontal will be the full 8 feet and is against the grain.
The verticals on the stand and canopy are with the grain. So very short on canopy... but 40"+ for the stand's front. I think so long as I really giver'er against the T-square and cut through the surface cleanly it'll be ok. |
super ghetto rough-idea:
http://www.fishbrains.net/images/404/scribe2.jpg I'd also have to the the underside of the canopy overhang... this won't be fun. |
Yes I like talking to myself!
So it's a really good thing I remembered the skin was ghetto-built without mitred edges. It's just brick style like my 225 doors: http://www.fishbrains.net/images/build/tilebox3.jpg So my clean lines would really be tough to creat once I hit plywood on-end. and then I don't have the benefit of chipping a ply-depth into the wood either. Here's what I will do. Way less scribing as well! http://www.fishbrains.net/images/404/scribe3.jpg |
Its doable on a table saw with a good finishing blade. Some painters tape along where you want to cut will further reduce/eliminate splintering.
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stand
your simplest way is to glue on cut door skins or other 1/8 ply-depending on the finish-also use a 23 gauge pin nailer
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Yeah I had thought of this too.
My trouble with that is I spent a lot of sweat getting the current box patched and smooth. You're right tho that is likely the smartest solution to getting what I originally wanted. I might even do a test with my knife cutting on-end into some plywood. I'm stubborn (and also sold my truck so no hauling sheets of anything anymore lol). |
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