I am using an arduino to control my led lighting system. Its not a simple project. The arduino can turn the lights on/off at set times but as far as I know it cant dim a buckpuck directly.

If you want to just set the lighting levels to what ever pleases you and not change it then the buckpucks will work alone for that. They have a small current adjustment pot on them.

The arduino is good if you want to have a sunrise/sunset effect or led cooling system temp monitoring and dont mind figuring out a little bit of programming.

A couple of puckpucks would probably do a small system like that nicely.

I didnt use a special soldering gun just a cheap 100w one (maybe cost 25 bucks).

I think the best option and bang for your buck would be the rapidled bio cube kit. If you want to truly control it them opt for reef keeper system or apex. I am not very good at soldering but the offer solderless connectors for certain Cree LEDs that will make life a lot easier. IMO I think don't complicate things, try to make it as simple for yourself as possible. That way you have less chance of messing it up.

Also stick to the CREE LEDs that are proven to work.

Ive seen a some info on the bridgelux the aquastyle guys use and you basically need twice as many if not more, to get the same output as the CREE which throws the power savings out the door. Some guy had a comparison on them, ill link it if I can find it again.

The PAR38 would actually work real well for that tank. Just make sure you get a quality one like nanotuners sells. Only issue is you cant dim for sunrise sunset and you cant customize it to your tank.

I'm pretty sure they have reef par 38 bulbs. With 12 LEDs blue and white. Just google reef par 38

bblinks, I just wanted to double check... im going to order the leds tonight, did you go with the Neutral white or the cool white?

Go with 2 RB per 1 NW. That is the trend currently because of the warmer color the Neutral has.

Dimmable PAR38. MR16 base LEDs are now also available, run straight off 12VDC, no soldering, just need the MR15 sockets.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/110646443892?...84.m1423.l2649

MR16 in cool white, I'm sure if you search, other colours are available, including blues. If one burns out, pull it & plug in another.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/260807325869?...84.m1439.l2649

MR16 sockets

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/360261138385?...84.m1439.l2649

The idea is, if you are doing it right, none will burn out for at least 10 years.
The links you posted are very cheap LEDs and not worth the money on every single one of them ($65 for 1w LEDS?!?!). For close to the same price you can get the same par38s with the proven CREE 3w LEDs.

Your point/argument about 10 years will be valid in 10 years. Not sure it will be worth arguing the point by then, we'll probably all be using plasma. I just received some of the cool white MR16 lamps and the quality appears very good, aluminum construction with very clear optics. The bezel can be unscrewed and optics removed. Solder joints & wiring look good. They may last a year, they may last 10, my point is, with MR16 or E27 base lamps, there's no requirement to solder anything. For the $74 dimmer that will dim all of 3 LEDs you linked to, I can buy a lot of cheap hardware and take my chances that it may not last.

I just checked out modularled.ca, pretty cool! They are in Red Deer.