Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board - The stand is the easy part...

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- - The stand is the easy part... (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=69324)

I made doors out of oak ply in the past, with the taped edges, but over time, I found they warped from the moisture. The larger of the sizes needs to be about 17 x 27, so I'm worried about using ply without a frame to keep it straight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by phi delt reefer (Post 560258)

you can build a schweet door than.

measure panels to they cover you stand completely. go to rona, have them cut birch or oak veenered plywood about half an inch bigger than you need it all the way around. use a straight edge and your router to clean up the cut lines and cut down the panels to the correct size. Have a look at my build, it will look super modern. you can add some trim tape to the edges if you want to really clean it up - having a router will make it look super pro (you just need an iron and steady hands to apply it - comes in a roll and is stainable)

You also need to get some euro-hinges (look like kitchen cabinet hinges) and a special 35mm bit (forgot what its called, but it starts with an F i think - if you buy the hinges ask the people at rona, they will tell you).

your stand will look like an ELOS stand this way.

^ Forstner bit

I wouldn't use plywood from HD or Rona for doors or removable panels, they are manufactured poorly and always warp. Somewhere like windsor plywood sells much better plywood that comes straight and stays straight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 560263)

+1 - the plywood i got had some bowing in it - get the good stuff if you can. It needs to be 5/8 to 3/4 thick to allow for the correct hole depth for the hinge.

MDF is usually pretty straight I think (someone please verify this). You can just paint that black (forgo the stain). If you get some super glossy paint and do a good job it will look like acrylic :)

Yeah good quality 3/4" ply won't bow or warp over time but you'll want to stain all surfaces to be sure moisture doesn't sink in. MDF is very straight but a moo point...

Hmm, didn't know there was a difference in playwood, just thought it was all the same. I used 1/2" last time, so I guess that can warp more easily...

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 560268)

Yeah good quality 3/4" ply won't bow or warp over time but you'll want to stain all surfaces to be sure moisture doesn't sink in. MDF is very straight but a moo point...

Ya, MDF isn't an option, it'll need to all match.

I emailed the guy from usedvic about what he can do, but thicker plywood might work too. I suppose I could use corner moldings to give it some depth/detail instead of the veneer tape...

Do you need doors? On my last stand I just used a removable plywood panel to cover the entire front of the stand. It attached with magnets and made maintenance easier compared to doors. It also cost less and I think it looks better as well.

https://www.beatfiltering.com/index....032b0ce6518913

Ya, I need doors. It needs to look like furniture. I used panels on my last large tank, and it was a hassle for the easy stuff, just check this, tweak that kind stuff. I built the openings large enough that I can work on the sump fairly easily, most stuff will be behind the centre duoble doors. giving me 24x26 worth of access.

Quote:

Originally Posted by phi delt reefer (Post 560258)

You also need to get some euro-hinges (look like kitchen cabinet hinges) and a special 35mm bit (forgot what its called, but it starts with an F i think - if you buy the hinges ask the people at rona, they will tell you).

Forstner bit