Bob ... I have to disagree :smile: ... I got my BTA from a tank that had overdriven NO bulbs ( about 18" deep ) to my tank that has Overdriven NO actinics/ VHO actinics / 400W Metal Halides ( 31" deep ) and he/she has a oral disc 3 times as big in little less than a month in my tank so I would say that lighting does have alot to do with it ... a animals survival under some conditions as opposed to thriving under better conditions is evident that we should try to provide the best environment for the animals we choose to look after not the minimal conditions ... just cause they dont die does not mean we have done the best we can for them

Cheers

What do you mean " do too much damage " ? ... not sure I follow you there ?


Cheers

I did forget to mention that also grew very quickly to abround 10" across at its largest. It is also noticable that LTA's vary in size depending on the mood at the time. I have seen then shrink to about the size of a loonie at night. Therefore, although I appreciate your argument, I do not believe that lighting has a direct relation to the size of an anemone at any given time. As far as providing the best conditions, I feel that statement is highly subjective, and arguments could go on forever, and in the end would just come down to whoever had the most pursuasive OPINION. :mrgreen:

Agree with both Rasta and Bob there- I want to give the anemone the best conditions I can, but it is hard to get agreement on what that is, especially for anemones.



I have a 92 gal corner in my living room. I haven't found a canopy for this tank, and the alternative to that would be to hang a metal halide pendant from the wall or ceiling. It is possible, but not something I want to do. Of course as I get sucked in deeper to this hobby, things could change...

There you go. :biggrin:

I took her advice also, and her LTA. :cool:
While it looks to be doing fine, it isn't tripling in size (and it's not going to). In my tank, that would be a bad thing. Finding the balance between "minimum requirements" and "absurd overkill" is tricky, and it's a little different for each tank.

I do very much like the term "absurd overkill". That is something IN MY OPINION , a lot of people are guilty of.
However, we are not in need of opinion, but advice. I too would go with an LTA. because they seem to stay where you put them. I have, however, read some posts about them reaching rather large dimensions. 18' across is a figure I have read. :eek: :eek:

Success with anemones is not subjective. It is a simple formula of providing properly for an animal's needs, which include substrate, water movement, lighting, nutrition and water quality.

Not to try to add fuel to this fire, but I have tried a various number of lighting combinations over my anemones over the years. In my experience, no, it is not mandatory for intense light, so long as other factors are within tolerances; but with the addition of intense light (i.e. moving from NO to MH) the anemones response was more than dramatic. The odds of producing an "ideal environment" are increased.

These are animals that live in shallow tropical waters. They are used to a lot of light. Doesn't mean they need a lot of light, but there's no arguing that they are accustomed to bright light in their natural environment. Some species of hosting anemones are actually exposed above the water line during extreme low tides. Imagine how much light that is. Bottom line is they can handle the light.

I don't know about LTA's in specific. Most generalities can apply to the dozen or so Pacific/Indo species of hosting anemones, each species does have its own unique tolerances based on their range and habitat. So LTA's may indeed, like BTA's, be able to tolerate long-term such environments. Some may already be adpated to lower light conditions, perhaps if they were collected at deeper waters. It should be noted, however, that I think there are several species among the dozen that really should not be attempted to be kept in captivity without MH or even natural sunlight supplemental lighting, but that of course goes beyond the breadth and scope of what I can say in a single post without getting much more long-winded. :mrgreen:

Bottom line, I disagree that lighting is irrelevant to the size of an anemone. Getting back to the "simple formula" you need to look at metabolism. Zooxanthellae by-products are sugars, so the energy produced is very high-burst, quick-release. Maybe kind of like the "power bars" an sprinter athlete might snack on or something like that. So imagine the amount of energy an anemone has when it's under a lot of light .... of course, for longevity you need slow-release kind of energies and this comes from nutrition. That athlete might still find it in his better interests to have a bowl of granola or oatmeal for breakfast every day.

SO I believe the best recipe involves both looking at lighting, and good feedings. :mrgreen:

I also have no desire to be long winded, but I have little to do while waiting for Mike Anderson to finally arrange to pick up his zoos

:rolleyes:

I do realise you believe that if it has a mouth you should feed it, and I would defer to your vast anemone knowledge. I do want to mention, however, that Robert Fenner discourages the supplementary feeding of anemones.

My bottom line is that PC lighting of the proper intensity is adequate for LTA's. That at least is my experience. :cool:

There is also another factor one might consider. Optimum conditions=Optimum growth with the sometimes undesirable result of a shortage of real estate. It is therefore sometimes good management to not provide conditions which promote optimum growth.

You might want to talk to Evan ( eposer ) and see what he is doing for a canopy for his corner tank that he is building right now ... a DIY canopy can be done that can match your decor and enough room to provide as much light to your tank as you see fit. For what it costs today to provide Metal Halide lighting ( Venki has 10K bulbs for $42 and a electronic ballast soon to come apparently in the $125 range ... tar ballast can be had for about $70 ... other than a slightly higher running cost over PC's I think that makes Metal Halides a reasonable alternative )

Cheers

I had hoped I was done, but what Steve said reminds me of an important consideration. I know Alan mentioned it, but the depth of the tank would make me change my recommendation. If you must stay with PC's (and I know you just purchased some, so you most likely will), and if the tank is deeper that 18", I would go with a BTA instead of a LTA. A BTA will move to where there is more light, but a LTA is forced by its anatomy to stay on the bottom