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-   -   Humidifier Float Valve (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=61096)

banditpowdercoat 02-11-2010 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 491208)
Your RO has an auto shut off, just ignore that post. It doesn't make sense to me either.

what does not make sence? I think I'm being clear? I made last post before I seen his last ones

But yes, now that he says he has a Pressure tank RO, he allready has a shutoff installed on the RO system.

hillegom 02-11-2010 04:44 PM

You do not have to have a tank in your RO system to have an auto shut off valve (ASOV)
Most systems come with this valve so that the unit shuts itself off and does not make any more ro water nor any more water to the drain.
Here is a link, for a picture, there are a lot of pics on the web.
http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_roasv.shtml

Delphinus 02-11-2010 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat (Post 491185)
I have a Kent Float valve mounted 3/4 up in a Rubbermade garbage can. Almost a year now, Never had an issue. We'll turn the RO on when the can is low and leave it for 1-2 days. I don;t think you will have a problem with the Fresh water. How many humidifiers have you heard about flooding? replace the float valve every couple-5 years just to be safe, because the seal will wear out, just like the taps in your home.

+1

Quote:

Now, using it direct in a sump, possible Salt Creep and such, That's a different story.
FWIW I use them in my sumps .. don't really have a problem with salt creep because the freshwater coming out flushes any away. About once a year I'll take them apart and blow out any dust or whatnot.

Only thing is you do not want your RO/DI direct to a float valve, as it will cause excessive wear and ultimately premature failure of the RO membrane. Instead, feed the valve off a bucket reservoir that you only fill once empty.

That's what I do anyhow. :)

superduperwesman 02-11-2010 04:54 PM

Yeah I have 2 float valves wired to a sprinkler valve for my tank ATO. And I also have the sprinkler valve on a timer so it only has power for 2 min 6 times a day. So It has a fair amount of protection. If the first float fails then I have the second and if it fails too then hopefully full water for 12 min a day won't flood the tank before I notice.

The humidifier float is just for my water changing. Like sphelps said, just a safety mechanism in case I forget that I'm filling the can while watching tv or something. I assumed that they were pretty reliable if they're used in humidifiers but I wasn't sure if maybe humidifiers had another safety mechanism that I was unaware off? And I wasn't sure how often these need replaced / have problems but it doesn't sound like anyone has had any?

superduperwesman 02-11-2010 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hillegom (Post 491230)
You do not have to have a tank in your RO system to have an auto shut off valve (ASOV)
Most systems come with this valve so that the unit shuts itself off and does not make any more ro water nor any more water to the drain.
Here is a link, for a picture, there are a lot of pics on the web.
http://www.goodwaterwarehouse.com/cat/6_roasv.shtml

Oh ok... thanks. I'll look for this when I get home... like I said. I don't actually have it all plumbed in yet I was just trying the float valve out on the R/O supply line that I ran. I'm gonna pick up my R/O from my old place this weekend.

viperfish 02-11-2010 04:59 PM

I have a humidifier float valve installed in an 80 gallon Canadian Tire Rain Barrell. It works flawlessly. I get enough water to do changes in all of my tanks at once if I need to. I have no valve and the thing has not failed me in over a year. I do have an auto shut off on my RO/DI system. I currently have my RO/DI supplying water to my 180, 90, 33, 20, and w/c barrell all at once, and all with humidifier float valves. I just fill my w/c barrell at night so i can keep the other resivoirs full for my ATO's.

Delphinus 02-11-2010 05:01 PM

No extra protection on the humidifiers and if you think about it household pressure is anywhere from 50 to 100psi typically.. think the biggest problem tends to be calcium buildup over time.

sphelps 02-11-2010 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banditpowdercoat (Post 491212)
what does not make sence? I think I'm being clear? I made last post before I seen his last ones

Most of it, but don't take it personally. All RO units should have an auto shut off unless they are the portable units which are only hocked up to a water source when needed. I wouldn't say that's the norm most units are permanently hooked up to a water source and the shut off valve is on the output. This being the case it will require an auto shut off whether a pressure storage tank is used or not.

The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet. Electronic systems can be designed with unlimited safety systems to prevent failure so you actually design them to meet your own personal confidence level.

viperfish 02-11-2010 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps (Post 491243)
The basic rule is to never rely on mechanical floats. I believe humidifiers have a drain if the water level gets too high, same as a toilet.

Most older humidifiers have a float valve and pan to hold water, the only drain is the one on the floor when it overflows. The mechanical float valves on these units last for years without fail. In my previous house the float valve had been working for 11 years and had not spilled a drop. The key to these things is simplicity. In my current humidifier I have an electronic solenoid and it took three of them before I got one that worked properly. I don't know of too many electronic devices, especially ones controlling water, that I would trust for 10+ years.

banditpowdercoat 02-11-2010 05:42 PM

Well, I have just seen more of the temp hookup style RO units in this hobby than the permanent, drinking water kind.


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