You might have to give the interior of the controller a quick once over to see that salt is not stopping it from working properly.

I think there is a relay in there that maybe sticking you may have to just clean the wloe thing. You can use a volt meter to see where the power leads goto and if it is going through the relay once you have the float attached and check the switch as if it got changed by acident then you have to use the other switch input location or just switch it back to the original mode I believe it should be in mode a and the sencor in sencor 1.

Bill

Bill:

If I have interpreted your notes correctly I should:

1. clean float (done)
2. clean contacts (red light is coming on so the contact should be good)
3. open controller and clean the circuits with peroxide?
4. let dry and test
5. swap modes on the controller, then test again.

Since this unit worked smoothly for 12 months with the existing mode I am hoping that step 3 and 4 should solve the issue.

Well I went through the cleaning routine on the weekend but without any success. The controller was swabbed with peroxide then with vinegar and left to dry.

I plugged it in a few hours later. This time the pump turned on but would not turn off with the float switch.

Last night I tried again but the pump would not turn on.

So I will go through the swabbing again. I did not swab the backside of the controller which I will do this time. I will also swab the inside of the controller box as well.

Sorry that I did not see the post on the weekend I would swab the backside of the board saly and other stuff can creep into the unit. I have not have a problem like this but if it is from creep of some kind this should do the trick. If this dose not do the trick there maybe a solder joint that is bad and cleaning the board with the swab only forced a conection temporary. I would then take it to an elctronic store and have them go over the solder joints they will know what they are looking for.

One other thing you can do to test is to have the unit open and plug everying in and wereing rubber gloves have it so the red light is on and the pump should be running then gently put presure on individule componets that are on the board when you come to the part that is not making contact the pump will start this is the part that needs to be soldered or replaced take it to a electronics repair store do not do it your self. but you can save on the repair bill because you have found the part that is not working properly.

I do not recomend doing it your self unless you know what you are doing and have the right equipment like a temperature controled solding iron or a pace sodering station about $500-$700. You can damage componets with to much heat.

Bill

Thanks Bill, I was hoping you would respond. If a more through swabbing does not work then I will do the rubber glove test.

I am thinking that it is a cold solder situation I come across this once in a while with electronic stuff for some reason it either shows up when you first plug it in or when the warranty is up. I don't know why a cold solder will work for so long before showing up. I know a guy that have a electronics repair show here in Kamloops along time ago the first thing they did was a drop test hold item up 1 foot above a 2 inch thick rubber mat and drop if it worked then it was usually a cold solder then they just had t find it my way takes a bit more time to diagnose but will not harm other components and you find the spot quicker.

What's one of these units worth? Do you have a photo of the internals? Without a schematic or functional diagram of how the circuit works, I doubt that it's worth trying to get the controller repaired, let alone stabbing in the dark trying to clean it or look for a faulty component without proper test equipment. It will probably cost more to fix than a new one and I'd hesitate to trust the thing if I have to fiddle around trying to clean the circuit board or look for a cold solder joint visually. Sorry if I'm not much help or very encouraging, but sometimes it's just better to move on and get a new unit.

Yup it is sometimes better to get a new one but some people like to fix things and you could replace every componet one the board for less than what it costs to get a new one. YOu can buy the float switchs seporatly but if you want the controler you have to buy the whole kit. I believe it is a single layer board and putting a bit of presure on each component will not take much time its probably on the front side where the cold solder is or the corosion was. poroxide will remove the corosion on the solder. I have equipment my self but I am not driving down to summerland to pickup and deliver. I have scopes meters temp controled soldering iron most of it I would have to dig it out and unpack it. I do not have a workshop here or even a garage to work out of. Is this not what DIY is for I do have a spare DIY ATO unit I just have to make an adapter for it insted of running the controler off a computer power supply I will adapt a wall unit.

Bill