Take a look at the size of the guys tank before recommending a tang.

The regal is omnivorous. It is the only tang that is a meat eater.
If you saw it in algae it was searching for meatly morsels in the algae.
Simply put the yellow and regal tang are not good options.

A sea hare is a good option if you take the time to acclimatize it and feed it algae or return it to the lfs when the algae is done.
Don't let it starve in your tank.

The best option is to clean up your water problem and you will find that the algae problem will go away over time.

Haha...
I wonder what mother nature would call this bandaid solution...lol

I think it's cool that you can have something of a functioning ecosystem in your tank with a natural food source for one of its inhabitants...


Hair algae sucks though...lol
i get little sprouts every now and then that i just pluck carefully...

was thinking of an emerald crab though...?

I don't see how adding a creature to eat the hair algae is a "bandaid" either. If that we're the guess your entire clean-up crew would be a "bandaid" solution. It is merely one in a combination of methods that can be used to tackle the problem.

my 75 gallon has gha slowly taking over.ive tryed to lower nutrient levels but did not work.i have a green emerald 7 bl hermits12 snails but snails only clean glass hermits up to 2 inches from sand bed and i never see the emerald unless he sheds. do sea hares climb rock.?half my rock is covered in nice green bristle like algea then gha on top.not much to hold on too.yellow tang looks like a better choice for picking between polyps...but i heard they pick on my xenia and anthelia.??

I was mainly referring to adding large or potentially large fish to system for algae control. A balanced clean up crew is essential. Algae is a sign of obvious excess nutrients for one reason or another. You may add a fish or other critter to eat it, but if you carry on with your regime the algae will be back as the nutrients continue to rise. You need to learn to adjust your habits in order to vanquish the algae for the long run. Adding a giant poop machine like a Tang or Foxface to a tank that is already overloaded with nutrients isn't always the best option. People end up putting fish and critters onto their system without really thinking about it too much just because "it will eat the algae". All too often you see big fish crammed into small tanks for this reason. That's why I call it a bandaid. Imo, get rid of the algae first, then add fish.

You know, I can certainly appreciate that generally the cause of hair algae is excess nutrients. And that typically the excess nutrients are caused by some poor husbandry.

However, people seem to be really quick to attribute the problem to someone's husbandry without getting all the information.

I find the most often misdiagnosed cause of hair algae is poor liverock. Over the last 10 years liverock has become more and more poor in quality. Additionally, LFSs generally have really poor "curing" practices. Liverock is tossed in a vat with some meagre flow and everything on the rock decays and clogs up the liverock. So most hobbyists are buying nice, big, expensive chunks of phosphate to start out their reef tank - great start! Unfortunately, most newbies don't read about "cooking" and despite great husbandry practices and top notch equipment they find themselves battling hair algae in short order.

When the problem becomes too much to bear, they post online after numerous failed attempts to get the problem under control. Inevitably they post that their test kits read zero phosphate and zero nitrate. They might even be astute enough to observe (if they have them) that their SPS are rather pale in coloration. Then some "well intentioned" hobbyist suggests they have to have phosphate and nitrate or the algae wouldn't be growing - "it's just being pulled out of the water by the algae so your test kit can't read it" or "your [insert brand/type of test kit] isn't very good and isn't capable of reading values below x".

With this phosphate laden liverock remaining in their tank they're going to fight a long, arduous battle. The phosphate is slowly leaching out, and you'll often see detritus being expelled from the liverock just like you would see in a vat with "cooking liverock". Unfortunately the tank is well lit and there's already hair algae there so it traps the organics being purged from the liverock and continues to fuel the algae's growth without it ever making its way into the water column. This can go on for years and all the while you'll test your water and continue to be befuddled by the fact that you're adhering to every good husbandry practice under the sun with no measurable phosphate or nitrate and yet this insidious hair algae continues to grow while your corals suffer from a lack of nutrients.

The take home message: Start with clean liverock. And if all else fails to correct the problem should you have started your reef tank with yucky liverock, start again with clean liverock. We, myself included, far too readily accept paying thousands of dollars for equipment and carefully planning out our equipment layout and design and then go on, without so much as a second thought, to just purchase whatever liverock is readily available and toss it in our "kinda well thought out tanks" only to become frustrated.

Most nuisance algae is bacterial (cyanobacteria) and should be treated as any bacterial infection that can proliferate in any tank "good" or "bad". New tanks and poorly set-up and maintained systems are just more likely to get algae plagues. I think of it the same way as a person with a healthy lifestyle is less likely to get a cold/flu than someone with an unhealthy lifestyle, but they are both vulnerable.

Algae plagues will not go away with mere husbandry improvements. You need to get on a level playing field and eradicate as much of it as possible.

Well said Canadian. What I refer to as "excess nutrients" is whatever the live rock and livestock cannot process. With that definition algae is a result of excess nutrients every time. I agree that many people have poor quality live rock, or end up damaging it in their attempt at curing. Many people have a tendency to add too much livestock to a tank too quickly, which the liverock (bacteria) can't keep up. It takes time to develop a good healthy store of bacteria.

Cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates are both bacteria, and not algae. Dinos are often mistaken for diatoms. Fortunately, both will also respond to attempts at lowering nutrients.

Most people don't know how to set up a reef in a way that prevents many algae and bacterial issues. Most people don't stop to think about how one's rockscape may affect the end result, or how the rocks that make it up will affect things. Or, or, or... For the most successful reef you need to take so many things into consideration that many people either don't think about or just don't know about.

When people ask about an algae or bacteria problem, they aren't usually willing to rip their takn apart and start again with a new and improved design. Most people won't even hear that as a viable option.

hair alge
 

Mr Wilsons advise was very good. There where some issue that i had not addressed. All the advise has been great. I have tried the sea hair once and i am now on my number two try. The sea hare does not seem to climb the live rock. It seem to want to remain in one area of the tank and so far is not looking so good. I have purchased a Scoupa tang to see if it will eat some of it. So far not so good either! I have and will follow some of the advise given. BUT my main question is "How do I get it off my rock" Will it go away on its own? Should I remove all the rock and do something to it? I will not keep the tang or the seahare if they do the job. I will pass them on.
Any advise on the hair on the rock would be great! Once again Canreef members ROCK! I also purchased Rowphos to put in my sump. I also have carbon in there also. both are near the exit. Should they be placed in a certian order? Rowphos first then carbon or???

Thanks everyone
James

Wow, some great information in this thread!

I agree with what Myka, Canadian, and mr.wilson have already said. I specially agree with what Canadian said about the curing methods of live rock... my live rock is still maturing, there is always all kind of detritus and junk coming off my rock (well, the Vanuatu rock at least). There are also a lot of living creatures on this rock, so that may have something to do with it... but, when I take a turkey baster to my rocks you should see the junk that comes off them. If the problem is indeed some nutrient leaching from the rock (very likely), you're in for a battle but it will end eventually. Look at it as cooking rock in a running tank :lol:

I think people underestimate the value of cleaning your rock... make sure you give your rocks a good squirt at least once a day, it will help in the long run.