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-   -   Acclimating corals..who does what (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=56882)

JPotter 10-16-2009 02:23 AM

What is the concentration and duration of the Interceptor/iodine dip? I have access to betadine and interceptor but am uncertain how to use them safely and effectively. Thx

JPotter 10-16-2009 02:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishytime (Post 455292)
This is what I do personally...not what I recommend at the store:mrgreen:

corals get temperature acclimated, dipped and visually inspected
fish get temperature acclimated and released
snails and hermits get temperature acclimated and released
clams, shrimp and other more sensitive inverts get dripped.

What is the dip..product, concentration and time.

JPotter 10-16-2009 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lance (Post 455312)
Pretty much the same here, except I add a little tank water to bag water and use Reefchem Sea Dip for corals.

What is in Reefchem sea dip for corals and what does it protect against?

Lance 10-16-2009 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JPotter (Post 455381)
What is in Reefchem sea dip for corals and what does it protect against?


Ha Ha. I can't type.:redface: Supposed to be (Seachem Reef Dip) which is a coral disinfectant containing Iodine.

Myka 10-17-2009 07:18 PM

For both fish and corals I am VERY sure that not a drop of bag water will make it into my tank. The corals are always rinsed with tank water, and fish are dripped so they get a rinse off too.

After a recent brush with Red Bugs on an Acro frag I have changed my procedure. All frags get floated in the tank for 30-45 mins for temperature. Then I use the bag water in a bowl, add the dip chemicals, dip the coral. Then I use a turkey baster, and baster the show with tank water after the dip to remove the TMCC. Then I place the coral in the tank in an area of low flow and low light, and slowly move the coral to where I want it. There is no acclimation to the water, just the temperature.

All Acros - Tropic Marin Coral Cure (as per label) and Interceptor dip for 15-20 mins.

All other SPS - TMCC as above. Although I have found Montis to be sensitive to the TMCC, so they only get dipped for about 5-10 mins.

LPS - I find to be sensitive to TMCC, so they get dipped only for a few swooshes, so they are in there for less than 1 minute, but still at full dosage.



Fish get a different approach. All are inspected. All fish are floated for 20-30 mins to warm up the bags (if needed) and drip acclimated for 1-2 hours into either the quarantine tank or the display tank. Some species won't do well in QT, so they are never put there no matter how bad they look. If fish are in the QT they will either be watched or medicated depending on what's going on. In both cases (display or QT), once the fish are done dripping they will be floated in the tank again for 30 mins to match the temp since the temp in the drip container usually falls by a few degrees. Inverts get the same treatment as fish except they never go into QT, and they are dripped for 2-4 hours depending on how sensitive they are.

Ime, I have come to the conclusion that most clownfish have "something". So all clowns get QTed with PraziPro treatment for a week as per the label.

I have been looking to find a reliable dip for fish mainly for parasites including internal ones, but I haven't been able to find much. So my search continues. Any suspect fish will get QT with a week's PraziPro treatment as per the label.

My drip procedure for both corals and fish is to use the smallest container needed, and pour only enough bag water in the container to cover the specimen. Drip 2 drops per second (inverts are 1 drip per second). Let it drip until the water volume has doubled or close to, then pour off the excess water until the specimen is just covered again. Do that 2-4 times. Inverts take twice as long because the drip rate is half. To drip I use airline tubing and a matching ball valve (TLF makes them).

Snappy 10-17-2009 07:38 PM

just my opinion
 
Personally, I think an iodine dip like sea chem or TMCC should only be done for about 2-3 minutes maximum. Flatworms tend to come off right away in my experience and leaving the coral in longer creates a lot of stress. I use a one gallon bucket so I can shake the coral in the water to help the process along. An interceptor dip actually needs to be done for a minimum of 30-45 minutes and even then you may still have a few stragglers that hang on. If you find red bugs upon inspection use a QT and give it the full 3 week treatment.

For fish, I find shrimp, snails & mandarins seem to be need more acclimation than most others especially since some stores have their salinity very low so be mindful of that. I have seen the SG at one LFS in particular as low as 1.017 so I always test to see what needs to be done as my system is generally at 1.026 SG.
Also as mentioned some fish are more sensitive than others so my acclimation procedure will vary depending on the fish.

Myka 10-17-2009 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snappy (Post 455795)
Personally, I think an iodine dip like sea chem or TMCC should only be done for about 2-3 minutes maximum. Flatworms tend to come off right away in my experience and leaving the coral in longer creates a lot of stress. I use a one gallon bucket so I can shake the coral in the water to help the process along. An interceptor dip actually needs to be done for a minimum of 30-45 minutes and even then you may still have a few stragglers that hang on.

I have found more and more corals being sensitive to the 15-20 minute TMCC dips, so I have been dipping for shorter and shorter periods it seems. I have been tossing around the idea of dipping TMCC and Interceptor separately too. Hmmm...


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