Well that sucks...... Yeah, the switches fried, but the relay still seems to work..if the led on it is any indicator anyway. Sooo I need new switches. Thanks for trying to help. Can anyone link me to the correct pieces for putting together this project so I don't screw it up a second time by any chance? If I can find all the right parts I will just get someone else to put the bloody thing together.:frusty:

For what you're trying to do, I believe you're going to need a different relay, one with more switching ability on the output side. The one you have only switches one circuit and you'll need more than that. I don't have a diagram handy at the moment but the link Mark provided is a good start and clearly shows the additional contact options of the more complex relay. You want a low voltage supply to run the float switch side of the circuit which in turn allows the relay to switch the 110 VAC circuit to run the pump or whatever you're using to top off your system. The control side of your current relay is low voltage at 3-32 VDC, you need to make sure the output or switched part is rated for 110 or higher VAC.

Here's a very good circuit, with latching feature to cut down on relay chatter. Provides options for controlling either a powerhead or solenoid valve. All the stuff in contact with the water is on low voltage, much safer that way. As you can see the relay has NO and NC contacts for switching.

http://hlj1yw.blu.livefilestore.com/...at_Circuit.jpg

Why do you want a relay so bad when you said it works with out it any way?
*Never mind I just re-read and you need the right equipment the relay was wrong or you need 120v float switches.

I'm a total electronics noob, so I think maybe it would be better (and safer) if I just bought one pre-made. Thank you everyone for your help, I really appreciate it. Had I not been a dummy and fried the switches (lol :lol:) I would have kept at it. Maybe someone else can use that great diagram though. (I don't even understand it , haha!)

Good idea, here's another circuit, perhaps a little easier to understand with the animation.

http://hlj1yw.blu.livefilestore.com/...tchcircuit.gif

Mike, that's the one I was asking for on RC.

Yep, snagged it from the BeanAnimal dude's post.

Have you considered a strictly mechanical set up for top up? If you have room for an elevated container above your sump, a simple mechanical float valve will do the trick without all the electrical hassle..... and it will work even during a power outage. I'm thinking of going that way myself when I set up my next tank with basement sump. Keep it simple with a gravity feed, only one component really to worry about failing, whereas the electrical ATO has all kinds of potential failure modes.

How does that work? What would I need? What does it look like set up?