Thanks Brad!

Dale, going with a three sided overflow box sounds like a great idea... even the horseshoe idea that was mentioned, as long as you can get it too look good ha. Um, I wouldn't be skimmpy on the teeth size on the box aswell. I wish I had made my teeth deeper and bigger so I could run my closed loop intake on the other side of the overflow just for visual cleanlyness. (I'm runninng a U tube, not drilled closed loop) You don't want to max out your overflow just so you can sleep at night :razz:

here is a poor diagram of my overflow, external durso...shown to me by Darren.

http://members.shaw.ca/smokinreefer/durso.bmp

it only utilizes 2 90s.

it is a 1.5" bulkhead, which handles my mag12 return, which goes straight up and over the tank, using a total of 3 90s.

just so you have an idea of what kind of flow i am seeing through the overflow.

so you could certainly use this design on the non-viewable end of your tank. and make a small overflow box, as i did. you could even incorporate a second bulkhead to it.

kinda like this...
http://members.shaw.ca/smokinreefer/2durso.bmp

http://members.shaw.ca/smokinreefer/durso.bmp
http://members.shaw.ca/smokinreefer/2durso.bmp[/quote]

This is the side drilled design I was trying to describe in my other post.

You will have 2 90's right away, like any durso, but, can eliminate any other 90's by plumbing the bottom of the standpipe using hose to smooth out the flow to the sump.

What are your thoughts on me doing it this way with 2 - 1.5" drains? What pvc parts do I need on either side of the bulkhead? or can I get a non threaded bulkhead to just slip the pipe in.

Could I even go down to 2 - 1" bulkheads? How is this setup going to be for noise.

Thanks for your details btw. I appreciate it. Now I am starting to think about doing the overflow as per your drawing just to keep the tank area bigger.

I would at some point change to flexible pvc or vinyl to minimize the amount of elbows going to the sump.

Thanks,
Bill

i wouldnt go down to 1".
use 1 or 2 1.5" bulkheads.

noise is minimal, it is basically a durso standpipe, only now it is outside the tank.

i use black flex hose from the drain to the sump...thus i get a smooth curve down to the sump.

for the inside of the bulkhead you just need a 90.
for the outside, i used a "street tee", threaded, but a normal "tee" is fine as well. and you'll need a cap, for the top of the "tee" (dont forget to drill a small hole on the top of the cap, for adjusting the air for the durso)
and youll need a barb fitting for the drain hose.

i bought my black flex hose at HD, its where all the tubing is, they have a package that comes with 25' of the flex hose, a 1.5" barb and a hose clamp for ~ $15. way cheaper than buying the pool/spa flex hose, barb and clamp seperately.

Thanks for the details Shao. This set up seems to take up less take space which I really like. So now I'm leaning towards having two 1.5" bulkheads through the end of the tank and making an overflow box.


I think I'll look around and see if I can find all the pvc pieces. If I have a threaded bulkhead that would make finding the parts a little bit harder. I think J&L's 1.5" bulkheads are threaded.
Dale, would you know if Southern Drip has slip bulkheads up to 1.5". I seem to recall only seeing slip bulkheads up to 1" there.

Thanks again guys
Bill

My 300G has a overflow box similar to the drawings shown here except in a traingular shape with 2 x 2" bulkheads ... 2 x 90 elbows ... flex tubing to the sump ( no durso ) ... ( 4MDQXSC as a return pump ... about 1000 G / Hr going through the sump ) ... al this behind a wall in basement so on show side no noise :smile:

This design gives you the most tank space IMO while skimming the surface of the water quite effectively

Cheers

Bill

Are the slip bulkheads at Southern you are talking about, the white ones?
If so I think they only carry them up to 1". Plus they have a barb type end on the other end so it would be a pain to hook a durso up to them.

We have some slip bulkheads at the store,but, I think they are only 1" or 1 1/4", whatever size Oceanic uses on their tanks.

here is how mine are.

http://members.shaw.ca/s.l.s/diy/stand/inplace.jpg

when I do it again I will have the bottom drilled. The simple reason is that I can have the sump under the tank and the stand can be no longer than the tank as it is going to built into a wall. If you don't mind the stand being longer then the tank then drill on the side but the Illusion of having more room with a box that is 1/2 way up is just that .. a Illusion. I mean sure there will be a extre strip that is water and not overflow box but that space is not realy goodfor a lot of things as it is in the bottom.. I guess you could stack the rocks around it and make a awsome hiding place for your fish.

This is what I am going to be forced to do when I move my tank to get a "Proper" overflow set up but if I could take all my sand bed and such out I would make a box that goes all the way to the bottom but is only wide enuf to enclose my piping. this way I would have the full lenght of the tank and the overflow could be hidden with thin rocks.

Steve

hey how do I post an image here so I can show you my concept drawing?