I use 3 heaters connected to a controller. I now have a ProfiLux controller and 2 x 250W and 1 x 200W heaters on a 525G system. Prior to the ProfiLux Controller I used a Medusa Heater Controller. I was struggling with the same problems heaters quitting and heaters sticking on. My LFS suggested the Medusa and it solved all my problems. I have even bought other peoples broken heaters that were stuck in the on position and used them until they quit altogether. All heaters fail sooner or later.

At the REEF NETWORK swap meet Jason Mck had a Medusa for sale, this would solve your problem once and for all.

Tom R

Same for me I think i have gone through at least a dozen over the last 10 years.

External controller is the safest way to go. Going to be setting up a Ranco soon so I can practice what I preach.

My luck with ebo is bad too - got an old 50w in the 10g and it's been pretty good, however I have a habit of breaking the glass ones; thus I tend to shy away from them (Only took getting zapped a few dozen times...). Seem to recall there was some discussion once of the black ebo's being good - the green ones being crap.

I know some of the RC won bro's heater rant threads talk about adding a plug to the heater line (removing the won controller) and running it through a controller - but that bothers me a bit... Just how reliable are those controllers?

Actually now that I think about it - anyone know much about the won digital heaters? I've got the old dial type, last time toirtis ran a group order there was some talk about the digital ones being more gooder :mrgreen:?

Visi-Therm Stealth Heater
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...m?pcatid=12060

Shatterproof fully submersible. Only downside is there is no "On" light. I have been running this fine for sometime, anyone have issues with this line of heathers?

I've got two of the black 250 Ebo Jagers in my sump and after five years they are still going strong.
As a matter of fact, I accidentally submerged them (didn't read instructions close enough):redface: and six months later when I realized my mistake they were still going strong.
Go figure

The difference between the ebo's submersible and non submersible versions - was the year of manufacture... Basically there was a rule change with UL listing - resulting in the "do not submerse past this line" requirement; heaters didn't change in design any... Just the rules changed... So they're still the old submersible design, but due to requirements - they're not allowed to claim that you can submerse them.

Found out some of my problem is actually appearing to be partly HVAC related... Closed off the vent and things are going better (may not have been all heater related problems over the last few days).

Hmm, heater cable... light bulb shining above head... I just installed some in-floor resistive heating cable in a small area I'm tiling at my living room bay window. Now I'm thinking when I set up my 90 gal with basement sump, why not incorporate something like that under the sump or even under the tank? This type of cable has its own sensor & thermostat and I'm sure with a little ingenuity, could be controlled with an additional sensor/controller for the water as well.

I plan to tear out my L-shaped kitchen counter and set up the tank on a new beefed up counter dividing the Kitchen & DR which is currently an open area. I was going to tile the counter with granite tile except under the tank which would have been just wood/plywood with a foam pad maybe. Now I'm thinking tile the entire surface and add the heating cable under the granite. Wouldn't use a foam pad then since that would act as an insulator blocking heat transfer to the tank. Alternatively,or in addition, a heating cable could be added under the sump in the basement. Voila, redundancy and no more dependence on finicky in tank heaters.... Caveat... just a 'little' more expensive than an aquarium heater, he he... How 'bout it, am I on to something here??

Here's a link to the co. that manufactures the system I have in the Living Room. Available at Home D. There's another system available which is a mat with the heating cable woven into it. The True Comfort system is a separate cable you need to install in a zig zag pattern with clips. Both are covered with a thin layer of mortar prior to applying the covering of choice which can be anything from tile to wood.

http://truecomfortsystems.com/