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leak fixed
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Well I managed to get water in the tank. After I fixed the leaky bulk head I added a Mag 5 to the mix and ran a test of the rest of the plumbing.
Fairly happy with the results, everythings doing what it's designed to do. I'm hoping that the Mag 18 won't be too much pump for the 1.5 drain. If the drain pipe can't keep up I can go back to the Mag 5 and use the Mag 18 on the closed loop. Like my sump? http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/DSC05257.jpg Drilled and plumbed the reservior tank http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/DSC05258.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/DSC05256.jpg |
I really like the side-storage you have made there.
I'm trying to find a way to fit a topoff reservoir AS WELL as my water change mixing tank under my stand. Would love to do what you've done but I'm going open-top and it'd look a bit funny. Looking forward to seeing more. |
This is just like I want to build for my 95. Do you have more detail on the construction and supply list?
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http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...ntopdesign.jpg I have thought about an open top even while I was building this stand, I guess I just need another 90 gal. (don't tell my wife) |
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Cprowler's 120 build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...ighlight=stand |
My stand has a footprint of 72x30 which is pretty decent.
I have just over 3 feet of vertical space to work with as well so I am planning on having a topoff reservoir feed into my sump and a waterchange tank too where saltwater can mix. I'm imagining a tank similar to that vertically oriented one in the back of Gold's that they use as water storage. The topoff will grav feed since it's higher up in my stand. The water change tank will need to be lower though to allow me to get salt mix into it. So this water will be on a switched pump that i turn on to replace water that i drain out during a change. My last tank had the RO/DI constantly feeding my topoff float valve but I have read in too many places that this can lead to the water not truly being pure. Better to have a solenoid/timer and just run it for a while. |
few things,
-first your first drawing, looks like the overflow goes into you reservoir then to the sump and still see on your plumbing, still does with a valve, wondering why -doesn't appear you have an overflow box just a straight standipe, again with a valve. Can understand the valve to backup the flow over the standpipe for noise (Herbie) would just caution running without a backup or emergency drain -in the drawing you refer to a CL, technical correct as is closed but usually referred as a return manifold. CL for aquariums seems to be more the drain and return at the same head. |
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I decided to "T"ed the flow to the sump and reservior for more control. I'm not sure about my fimal use for the res, it might feed the surge or I might run marco, or even live rock. regardless I thought if I "T"ed I would be able to have greter options later. The valve on the stand pipe is simply there for shut the over down when I work on lower part of the plumbing. again a control issue. Not shown in the drawing the CL will have a "T" to the sump that can be used as a emergency drain. And regarding the CL or Manifold Return the drawn might not be as representational as it needed to be http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/b...0gal/cldia.jpg I'll let you decide what it's called but I'm building one of these, closed loopy manfrotto things :) I find that drawings sometimes get in the way of life, so I use them as a guideline for jumpstarting creative. But thanks for your comments I need those to keep the creative in check |
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