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8" would be for the floor only. Walls are usually 2x4 or 2x6 framing.
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Okay cool.
So if I had say an 8" floor would I have to, or should I, reinforce it further? Or is this one of those things that I should wait and see what the floor is like? |
fkshiu,
How did you set up your system? Did you have to do a significant amount of demo, or renovations to make your basement tank worthy? I personally expect to have to run extra electricity, water, a drain, and possibly construct a false wall. Did you run into anything extra, or eventually ended up having to do something that you didn't originally plan for? |
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For older houses, the slab isn't as much of a concern since all the shifting and curing has already ceased and you can go about dealing with it "as is". |
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It's a 60-year old house and the slab was solid, but very uneven. I ground down the peaks where I was planning to put the tank and had a new 2" slab poured perfectly flat and level. I used porcelain tile on top of that. Greenboard rather than standard drywall was installed behind the tank and an ultra-quiet Panasonic bathroom fan was installed on a programmable timer above the tank for venting. Anything I could have done differently? Probably should have put the GFCI outlets off to the side rather than right behind the tank for increased safety and maybe have gone even bigger! |
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"Heat Recovery Ventilator" - it's a device that works in conjunction with a furnace to deal with excessive humidity (in the case that this is a problem - luckily not usually a problem for people with one tank with water volume less than 120 gallons or so).
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HRV stands for Heat Recovery Ventilation. Its a system which will help with humidity, circulation and ventilation in your home. If you google HRV, I'm sure you can get a few better descriptions. |
No your description perfictly fine. Thanks Cathrine&Tony.:wink:
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Walls
If You Build A False Wall It Can Be Any Size But Your Outside Walls Should Be A Min Of 2 X 6. 2 X 4 Walls Dont Have Enough Insulation
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