I have heard stories from both sides and LOL they were at the same store 2 different people.(at ocean aquatics)

Wendell(gotta love Wendell)-If you want to keep brown sps corals thats fine.

Janet(makes you laugh no matter what)- Yeah you should get color about half way down the coral.

yee yee
 

-o ya the guy who sold u crabs

If this is a standard 90g with the usual center brace then I think it's a no-brainer - go with at least 2x250W MH and consider T5 supplementation (and preferably use HQI/DE on a non-electronic ballast for the best PAR). If it's going to have eurobracing then you could get away with a 400W with a GOOD reflector (something like a Lumenarc). But even then it's going to lead to a sort of patchy spotlight effect with major dimming on the ends of the tank (which may be a good thing if you're planning on keeping low light corals - you'll have somewhere to put them).

If this is going to be an SPS dominated tank then I think you need to go here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/6/aafeature2 and read all 4 (I think there are 4) parts of this series. Too many hobbyists get brain washed and hung up on the idea of running 400W MH and put far too little consideration into planning appropriate waterflow for SPS tanks. They then become frustrated when their SPS lack color and growth despite having "super bright" lights and having tried every brand of blub in every available kelvin rating.

You know, even if most people can't understand it, please watch your language. This is your final warning. Thanks.

Whats up with that.

I feel like this is a reef lighting version of "Who's on First?"....

what?
 

-isn't it true that u got ur scarlets from ocean aquatics whats the big deal?

mik_101 and bv reefer, could you guys take this to PM please. This is a metal halide lights thread and we'd like to keep the topic on track.

Thanks :biggrin: