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-   -   RO/DI for Freshwater? (http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=23696)

reeferaddict 03-18-2006 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StirCrazy
one thing to note, if you use RO water and nothing else like was mentioned it is unstable.. PH will be all over as there is nothing to buffer it alk will be nuts... not recommended in any book. what is recommended is that if you use RO, then you must use a re-mineralizer or something like that.. ie black water extract, discus buffer ect.. this will re buffer the water to proper levels as you won't have anything left in the water to buffer it.

Steve

Ditto - remineralized is the way to go. What will happen over a period of time is that not only will the hardness/alk be all over the place, but the ionic balance of the water will become too dilute, actually causing osmotic shock to your animals... to use it once in a while for a 10% water change is fine for reducing nutrient levels and algae control, but prolonged use will eventually make your water uninhabitable... I did this once and wiped out a tank... sometimes we have to learn the hard way... *SIGH*
:redface:

Invigor 03-18-2006 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G1GY
Angels (And most other south american fish) prefer soft water and the blackwater extract does the same thing as adding peat or a new peice of mopani bog wood. :)

yea that sounds about right. I used to use peat, then thought I'd give this a try..still thinkin I should get a log of driftwood

Willow 04-09-2006 08:53 PM

Just wanted to say the contributions to this thread were helpful. I learned something too.

ron101 04-10-2006 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reeferaddict
Ditto - remineralized is the way to go. What will happen over a period of time is that not only will the hardness/alk be all over the place, but the ionic balance of the water will become too dilute, actually causing osmotic shock to your animals... to use it once in a while for a 10% water change is fine for reducing nutrient levels and algae control, but prolonged use will eventually make your water uninhabitable... I did this once and wiped out a tank... sometimes we have to learn the hard way... *SIGH*
:redface:

Remember don't confuse alkalinity with hardness. Measuring alkalinity can be a method for inferring hardness but they are not one in the same. Alkalinity is a measure of pOH (inverse of acidity). Water that has a high carbonate hardness (KH) tends to have a ph greater than 7 and good buffering capacity; as in it is considered alkaline not acidic. Pure/RO water has no carbonate hardness and thus no buffering capacity so pH can swing uncontrollably (both up and down).

Like Steve said even soft water fish like discus and South American cichlids will require some reminerilization to their water if RO is used. FYI the water in the GVRD is already quite soft and a little acidic; RO is probably overkill but if you already have access to it...

If your water source is hard then RO/DI will be the only reliable way to soften your water. Peat and acid products are quickly consumed by the carbonates and will leave a bunch of neutralized compounds in the water.

JHG 07-16-2006 08:11 PM

R/O water is great for fishes that require soft water / low TDS, etc. In the future I plan on establishing a South American dwarf cichlid breeding project and will be using R/O water. Ensure that you add some crushed coral to the filter to avoid any pH crashes. The blackwater extracts that are on the market are a decent additive, plus you can use peat purchased from your local hardware store, i.e., Home Depot, Kent, Canadian Tire. This peat is SUPER cheap compared to anything purchased in a LFS.

J

PS: Forgot to mention that I'm in the market for a reasonably priced R/O unit myself.


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