Oh yes, just the distribution before any energy costs the bill is $60

The hydras I have still run quite a bit of juice although not as bad as MH or T5 of course.
I would say get yourself 2 circuits for sure as I just got one of my 800 watt heaters plugged into my apex and alone it runs my amperage from 7 to 13 amps.

i would run min 2 just to be safe. have a heater and a powerhead plugged into each circuit so if something trips one you still have a backup plan.
for a system that big 2x20amp or 3x15 amp isnt a bad idea
you dont want to run circuits near full load anyways and at worst case senario a tank that big will need over 15 amps you will probably need 1200 watts of heaters which is 10 amps for alone if the power goes out and it drops when it comes back on all your heaters will run.
the 2nd and 3rd circuits would give you the ability to run 3 MH or 10-16 T5 bulbs if you decide LED isnt for you, and still have powerheads and return pumps and skimmers on all 1/2 load circuits.
breakers and wire are cheep, no point to skimp

return pump 150-200 watts
heaters 1200 watts
powerheads 100-200 watts
LED lights 500 watts MH 750-1200 T5 400-800
skimmer 75 watts
with those rough numbers with LED not even running full your MAX with a single 20Amp circuit its not smart putting all your eggs in 1 basket.
spend the $$ and run atleast 2.
I ran 2-15 amp for my 250 but its in my shop so ill ALWAYS be able to add another circuit if i needed it

I use a Blue Planet Energy Meter purchased from Canadian Tire for about $20.00 to monitor the electrical load placed on a circuit and estimate the monthly cost incurred by an electrical item.

I originally bought it to monitor the electrical draw of my MH lights on a circuit as I was always concerned about over loading the circuit. We have all seen the the back of peoples tanks with 8 or 10 items plugged into a single wall circuit.

These thinks are really handy for the price.

Tom R

I have my saltwater tank on a dedicated 12 Amp circuit. Not sure 'two' separate ones are needed, if your power is out for example, it's out. I don't think your total load 'should' be more than 12 amps!

My logic is that its a good idea (building code) to have electrical devices that are exposed to water/moisture plugged into a GFCI receptacle. Unlike a regular breaker or fuse its pretty easy to trip a GFCI. So by splitting my water circulation pumps between two circuits I reduce the risk of my tank completely shutting down by 50% if there is some minor issue.

Haven't done any measurements recently, but the spreadsheet I use to track items on my tank does include one on electrical. Here's a link should anyone be interested in doing the same. This has not been updated in a long time & some of the equipment is no longer in use, replaced by different gear. Fortunately hydro rates & service in my part of the country are still a bargain & reliable. Still looking at getting more self sufficient with utilities though, that includes solar, wind & collecting rain water, possibly setting up a grey water system in my home. Water rates are what kill me here. Vernon/NORD officials can't seem to figure out how to keep those rates reasonable. Ours are among the highest in the Okanagan.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

If the goal here is to calculate cost, watts would be a better starting point than amps, since rates from the utilities are generally billed using kilowatt hours. If your power monitoring equipment provides the option to display watts, you save one step. Not long after they installed the smart meter on my house, I purchased a monitoring device that reports whole house usage. I used a plug in device to individually measure the power use of the items on the spreadsheet.

12 amp circuit? Don't recall seeing a circuit breaker in my Load Panel with a 12 on it. Aside from the mains (100 amp or larger) I have 15 & 30 amp breakers. 20 amp is another commonly available size. You may be confusing the generally accepted safe 12 amp limit (80%) on a 15 amp circuit with actual circuit breaker rating.

This, right here^^^^^. Having all your tank equipment on a single circuit, regardless of whether it can easily handle your load is a recipe for grief. Might not be sooner, but sooner or later it's bound to happen. Plenty of examples of reef tank horror stories related to tripped circuits. Backup power source in case of troubles is also highly advisable.

Absolutely recommend 2 dedicated circuits for a tank of that size. Split everything in half...lighting, heaters, pumps... when one circuit blows the tank won't be in trouble. Saved my *ss more than once. GFIs on both.

As for power use, I can pretty safely assume I'm more than 10A. My system uses 4 dedicated circuits.

I think your correct, it is a 15 AMP breaker not a 12. Thanks for the correction.

day to day no thats a lot of juice.
but after a power outage on a tank that big he will probably have 1200W of heaters and if the tank temp drops 5-6 degrees after a good outage, when power comes back on all the heater kick in pumps lights ect hes well over the 15A a regular circuit will handle.

split everything evenly or at least have a powerhead and heater on a second circuit.

My 250 I have both LED light fixtures a heater and a power head on one and then the apex on the other running everything else.
the LED have their own controllers and they throw nothing for heat so I couldnt see using 2 apex outlets for them and i could care less if that circuit trips for any reason that the fish are in the dark until I could get there but if the 2nd circuit running EVERYTHING else blows I still have some heat ( not enough but it will probably give me hours and hours of extra time before the tank drops toooooo much in temp.) and circulation

its not only about the power draw its also redundancy becuase anyone with any time invested in this hobby will testify bad sh*t never happens when your home its middle of the night or 10 min after you walk out the door to go to work.

not ragging on you at all just food for thought!