Hypo can work. What you're probably remembering is that there are numerous localities/subspecies (I forget which) of Ich that all have varying degrees of resistance to changes in salinity. So hypo might work on some ich outbreaks but not other. Best to go with copper as you've previously stated.

Already got copper med and cu test....damn these are expensive.

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Hypo definitely does work. I have used it many, many times in my QT with 100% success rate. The key is to take it down to 1.009 and keep it there for at least 4 weeks. Also you need an ongoing QT set up ready to go with a canister filter (or similar sponge filter) to ensure you have a mature nitrogen cycle. Otherwise you will be battling ammonia and pH swings, and mostly likely not successful. It is not something you can set up and use at the last minute.

The biggest downside to hypo is that it is a lengthy process. The total process usually takes 2 to 3 months for me (taking it down and then slowly bringing it back up again). I also do a Prazipro treatment in QT.

But the important thing is to use QT as a preventative with all new fish. Pretty hard to catch your fish in the DT, and they will indeed be highly stressed with a move at that time. Plus your DT is now infected anyway, and likely more fish will get ich.

Another method (besides copper which I don't like) that I have heard works well, is the tank transfer method. Only takes 9 days to complete. Might try that myself one of these times instead of hypo.

When I do hypo I actually use live rock as the filter I keep a couple extra pieces in my sump just for this reason alone I swap out the pieces every 3 to 7 days I also place a powerhead at the bottom of the tank and a airline to it so that it will pull in oxygen There are a few species of fish but do not tolerate hypo

I do eight eight to ten week treatment at 1,009 and keep up with weekly water changes I feed on a regular schedule as well

Here's a link for the TT method. It's actually more like 12 - 15 days. But that is still pretty quick.
http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/3daytransfer.html

And here is a recent thread discussing QT practices and this method, and where I learned more about it.
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...ght=quarantine

Don't you worry about the swimming stage of ICH being on/in your live rock your cycling back into your DT tank water from putting back into the sump?

(For reefwars) sorry a post snuck in between.

Are you sure that isn't Brooklynella? I just went through it with a new clown. Where Ich tends to be very distinct white spots, my clown looked more like it was dusty. If it is brook copper is not effective. The recomended treatment is formalin, I used paraguard dips for a week or so and followed that up with tank transfers.

I bought a fox face that looked good to go but a couple days later I started seeing ick on it and my uv light did a great job getting rid of it I also put garlic guard on my plankton before I feed every day so my fish r all secreting garlic out of them at all times I have 55 fish in my 200 gal mixed reef that has been running since 2008 and I have never seen a sick fish since the uv light was installed so my thoughts r to quarantine the clown if possible and treat as the others say or sad to say flush him. I strongly recommend purchasing a uv sterilizer light before buying fish and also check the fish out really good before buying and putting in with your other fish. I know this fix may not help your clown but will help you in your future reefing

Cheers,ryan

also thinking something else rather than ich from the picture.

About as worried as I would be as if it came in on a random coral etc that's the reason why I keep the hypo so low while others keep it a little bit higher