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First, check your source water pressure with a gauge, if it's 60 psi or better, you should be fine. If it's 40 or less, start looking for a PRV in your home plumbing & see if it can be adjusted for more pressure. If you can't find the PRV, you may have to invest in a booster pump to get the desired performance out of your RO. It just keeps getting better & better, no? How's that headache coming along now? |
Hahah its gettin a lil worse but thanks for all the info guys. It all helps alot.
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So I think iv finally gotten it all figured it out. I removed the storage tank and the stupid aso valve, and hooked it directly up to my tap. Would you guys say its doing its job. I tested my tap water with my TDS meter and it read 221, and then i tested the water coming out of the ro it says 20. Is that acceptable or should it be doing a better job?
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Thats acceptable for your system. The RO works at about a 98% efficiency.
If you wanted to bring it down to 0, as many do, then u have to add a DI (dionization) cartridge. Here in Surrey we have about 12-15 ppm water and I run an RO/Di system for 0 TDS. The lower your ppm, then the less work the DI portion has to do. The DI, expensive stuff, lasts longer. |
This may be a stupid question, but once I have my RO water do I still need to add prime to it? Also the PH coming out of ro is like 6, so obviously add some PH booster? I ran my filter for a few hours and its now down to 14. So hopefully it gets lower still.
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Awesome thanks chris!
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