I'm (was) considering one of these units. Is the basic problem with blown fuses, not enough flow?. With adequate flow are they reliable?

Also, using the sizing chart it recommends a 1/2hp for my water volume (450g). But that is with a 10 degree pull down. I could get by with a 5 degree pull down. Would the 1/4hp work, or would it be cycling on/off too fast?

Since increasing the flow, I haven't blown another fuse (close to a year). Realistically, go for the bigger unit, I think the 1/4hp would be good for a max 180g. Anything bigger, spend the liitle extra for the extra power.

Thanks for the quick reply. I tend to agree that bigger is probably better, but the cost is almost twice as much and the dual controller is not available. Which I think would be quite handy. Also the 10 degree pull down is twice as much as I would need. But on the other hand if the 1/4hp can't provide a 5 degree drop then bigger is my only choice. Any other recommendations for larger chillers?

I have a 1/10hp PC chiller that I got from J&L two months ago. I forget the model number, but apparently it's the latest generation. It's a single stage unit. The unit arrived, and I run it with a Mag 350 (or is it 450?) on a 55 gal - no sump. My tank was running in the high eighties now it stays at 80 (It turns on at 81, and drops it to 79). The thermometer in the unit seems pretty accurate once I set it up (it was reading two degress higher than my glass theomometer). Well, the Unit ran strong for about two weeks, and then one day the LCD started saying 122 degrees, the chiller constantly ran, but my tank was not losing any heat...

I called J&L and spoke to Jeff, he said that he'd get PC to gimme a call to trouble shoot the unit. They did (like half an hour later - speedy) and the tech on phone deemed the probe the problem. The shipped me a new probe. It arrived 3 days later...

I installed it (pretty simple) but the problem remained. I called Jeff back. J&L couldn't exhange the unit for me (even though less than 30 days old!) and I had to ship it to PC in the US. Well, $150.00 shipping charge and 5 days later, I get a call from PC, saying that the main board on the unit it messed up, they replaced it, and the unit was running fine now. I had the unit back 3 days later and it's been great since.

J&L appologized for all of this, and flipped the shipping bill. Jeff was a HUGH help, so thanks, I really appreciate it (if you read this board :))

Through all this though, I did lose 5 polyps on a 7 polyp frog spawn that I got 2 weeks earlier from AI (so it was like $90!) from heat. Poor little guy... He's comming back though.

I've never had a fuse blow on the unit. PC did say that non-functioning probes were pretty common on these units though. Over-all, for the money, I think it was a steal.

has anyone used an external temp controller on these chillers like a madusa or Ranco. To get better control I was thinking of putting the chiller and pump on the same controller so the pump isn't running all the time.

As a refrigeration mechanic, I think I may know what's going on with this fuse blowing. If you don't mind, I'll ask some questions.

1) What is your differential set at (2 or 4 deg)?

2) Are you blowing a fan directly onto the chiller?

3) How much flow do you have through your chiller (really)?

I think that what may be happening is the compressor is trying to start before the high and low side pressures have had time to equalize when the chiller shuts off. The little compressors they use on these chillers (the same as in window air conditioners) are not meant to start under load. If they are required to start under load, they just sit and hum until they either trip on their motor protector (if they have one) or blow the fuse.

You can check for this yourselves. When the chiller shuts off, listen to it closely. Put your ear right up to it. You should hear some hissing for a little while. Keep listening until it tries to start again. You'll hear a little click as the relay engages to start the compressor. After that, if the compressor doesn't start right away, you should hear it hum, then it will stop after a little while when the protector or the fuse cuts it out.

There is something avaliable to help this. They are called "hard start kits". I use them on compressors of this type that have a problem starting because of high starting load.

I mentioned the temperature differential because a larger differential will allow more off time for the comressor and more time for the pressures in the system to equalize.

If you blow a fan directly onto your chiller coil, it will also help to equalize pressures faster; As will having higher flow through the chiller.

I hope that this helps. I see that there have been no new posts since the 15th, so I assume no one has had problems or they are just sick of the units.

Let me know if this info helps you. Without actually seeing the units and hooking up some guages to them, it is hard to tell. I wouldn't mind knowing if this is the problem.

Hi Karl, sounds like this may be the problem. mine was blowing when I had it on the 2 degree setting. what I did was hook up a 1200 gph to it and I figure it is getting about 700. this helped during cooler weather but I ended up having to take the front filter off and hooking a big fan about 3 feet away to increase the air flow through the unit.

what is this hard start kit and can anyone put it in or do you have to break the freon system to do it?

Steve

I need to know what kind of compressor motor is in the chiller. If there is a wiring diagram I could tell you if it would work for you....

I'll take some pics of Brads when we move his stuff.

Steve

I'll have to wait for that time, then. I couldn't find any schematics online.

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