Thats funny, i bought 3 different brands of standard 6 line extensions,and none worked...only the coupler did.

That's what i'm using, a seperate 6 line telephone coupler and seperate 6 line standard telephone extensions, all bought from a local dollar store. Works for me!

I remember now that i had just tried it on the remote display, not on the power bars.

Works just fine on my remote display.

well that licks...i just tried it again....what could be different ?

Don't know, but I will go back to the dollar store in the morning and look at the packaging. I threw mine out. Will post back tomorrow and let you know what it says.

AquaCan,

will i see you in september (Macna)?

Regarding extensions:
This is a 6pole 1:1 extension cable with western plugs (RJ12).
Keep in mind they should not be too long. I am not familiar with the unit "feet" but talking about meters the cable should not exceed about 12m.
Maybe longer distances can be achieved; that must be tested.
In any case make sure there is some distance between the extension cable and sources of interferences, a long cable is similar to an antenna.

50 feet is about 15.5 meters so attenuation could be a problem. The signal probably starts getting weaker well before 12 meters but its still just strong enough to work.

Scott

Matthias, I will on vacation in Aruba at the same time the Macna is on in September. And yes, I am still fighting with the WLAN connection. :cry:



SuperFudge,
What I am using is 6 wire modular line extension. It looks just like a regular telephone extension jack with a slightly wider wire but the difference is that it has 6 conductors as opposed to the two or three that telephones use for extensions. If you look at the clear jacks you can see this.

Hi guys,

Not been around much since emigrating over to Ottawa from the UK, but am nearly up and running.

I will have sponsorship with canreef in the next month so my ID will be changing.

Until then any support questions you may have please drop me a line just as before.

Matthias - Macna is a no show for me, too much to do and too soon, but still up for that beer you owe me in niagra afterwards!!!!

Best wishes
Michael

Hi Michael,

we booked the hotels for our Macna-trip, i'll send you a mail with further infos...i think one beer is the minimum

And for all: There are some new developments coming - firmware & products! I am sure Macna will be very interesting!

Fan Breeze Instructions
 

Hey Micheal,

I'd love a copy. I just have it plugged into my digital power bar and only one out of the three fans is currently running. Any idea why the other two might have stopped?

Cheers,
Gord.

I will dig a copy out for you no worries

Are you using it via a breeze speed controller or stand alone?

i cant believe how big this thread is. anyway i finally attempted a firmware update today. was very easy to do. there was a misunderstanding on my part because after the firmware update, all settings are lost. the program reminded of it before it started so i quickly wrote all the info down but after the fact i realized the info i re-entered afterwards was scrambled because my software was not updated. but other then that it was very easy. i can finally setup my digital bars now and clean up my bloody wiring. hopefully next days off the wife will go out with the kids and give me time to do it. the controller has been working awesome for me though. i love it. currently it not controlling anything but when i add my digital bars i will have it control ph, temp, eventually sump water level. its runs all my lighting. the past while the unit has been getting thrashed regarding the WLAN, and i have personally not had luck with getting it to work either but that is only one small part of the entire package. the additions keep getting better and better. i personally seen one of the new dosers at hidden reef and it lasted a whole 3 hours and it was sold. it was awesome. now if only the controller could make my corals grow faster..................

Finally getting to setting this thing up...
 

OK, so far my experience has been good, I think the controller has a lot of potential, but I am just getting started setting it up. I have the following questions:

1. According to the manual, there is a "fitment" available for attaching the controller to the wall..."Using our optionally available fitment the unit can also be attached to the wall." Can anyone tell me where to get one of these?

2. I continue to have problems displaying a graph of readings. I have updated both the software and the firmware to 3.03. I don't seem to be able to see any readings on the chart.

3. I have heard about the Redox / Salinity Conductivity Expansion module and would like to get more information how it works and what it does. Do you have a brochure at all with more detailed information?

I am going to go through the manual again and I'm sure I will have more questions. Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers,
Gord.

Matthias a question please this is driving me & the fish mad. I have the LED spot-light attached to the Profilux, when all was first started all was OK, blue led dimming according to the moon phase but now for the last few weeks it is now a the red leds' that are dimming according to the moon phase. What have I programmed wrong please?

If you can send your data files across to either myself or Matthias we can load them up and see what you have set up that is causing this for you

Hi Gordon.

Hope this helps.

I as yet have not come across the wall bracket but can easily find out for you

The data charts are addressed I believe in the next firmware version, matthias should be able to answer this better. just drop him a pm

The combined salinity/redox card is a dual use expansion card. It gives you control and monitoring of salinity readings of your tank and also redox potential or otherwise known as ORP. The beauty of this card is that it only utilises one slot instead of two if your pruchased the two cards seperatly. it is also cheaper doing this way. You will need to purchase the probes as an addition. You do not need to run both though, the card comes with a blanking plug so you can run only one of its functions if required.

If you ant one let me know

Hi all

Michael from Monitors_direct here, YES new user name as we are now paid sponsors of Can reef.

This means we can now not only support you guys with GHL but also "supply you"

I will make a formal announcement in our sponsor area once created with links etc.

As per normal forum rules, all sales talk will be kept to my sponsored area only!.

All the best
Michael
Aqua Digital Inc

-> in Production, available in app. 4 weeks

Too less information for me. Question:
-> Can you load measurement data out of ProfiLux into a file? Is there any data?

-> there is no special brochure about them because there is not much to say: They measure ORP and conductivity and can control switchable socket outlets. All parameters are freely adjustable. More can be read in the ProfiLux manual under "Redox" and "Conductivity".

I guess the channels are swapped. You can program the assignment of the channels to the LED groups. Just swap it again, see manual "program LED".
Important hint: Don't try to change the moon-color of -BW or -DB types, there color is not adjustable! If you do so this might cause a channel swap.

All fans are hard-wired, that means: if one is running the other should do so, too.
There are these possibilities for the malfunction:
- the contact of plug and socket (PCB inside the extrusion) is lost - maybe through transport
- PCB is defective
- motors are defective
reason for defective motor and/or PCB: saltwater!
Please read the manual carefully, contact with salty water must be avoided in any case!

If I buy the bluewhite, sunrise and blue LED sticks (55cm) should all of them be centered over the 1.2m aquarium? Will the lighting be spread equally if all of them are centered?

You should only need one stick for the size of your tank centered.

the flashes will project themselves through the tank without any trouble, bearing in mind in nature a flash seen from above when under water will have varying degrees of intensity.

Regards
Michael

If you want a more controlled flash area you may also concider the spot option also

Red Moon Led
 

The LED is type Profilux-Simu-DB and I have tried to swap the channels with no luck, thinking back the swap happened when I updated to the latest version. What are the differences of the LED types because I am thinking of buying a second LED.

Hi

the differences are in the colour and effect each produce.

If you have a marine tank and you want to recreate moonrise and moon phase and nothing else then the Simu-DB is just perfect.

Then you have the opposite, the sunrise spot or stick will simulate sunrise and sunset.

Moving on from there you then have what I call the full effect spot and sticks, these will do sunrise/sunset and moonphase and also produce simulated lightening effects, which of course can be fully programmed with duration and intensity.

it all comes down to what effect you are trying to achieve in your own system.

Hope this helps

Michael

"just click the crab"

LED channel change
 

Hi Michael - Any idea how to change the channel back to blue? The LED lamp you mention is that the Profilux-Simu? Regards Paul

Hi

Sounds like you may have moonphase set up, I am assuming you have a simuDB i.e it ony has a blue colour.

Other than moonphase or the simulation being set to cloudy days you will need to look at your set up graph. As there as so many setting for the simu's it is hard to diagnose by guess work, but if you can send me a copy of your profilux data file I can tehn upload it to mine and see where you are going wrong.

This can be done in file menu, you cn then save you settings to your pc and email them to me at sales@aqua-digital.com

Please give me 72 hours to look at it for you.

Not all the LED lights from profilux are simu's only the ones that flash, if you have a quick glance at my site you will see the difference as to what they do.

Regards
Michael

Can my PH and Temp probes be completly immersed ?

Yes they can

Regards
Michael

Remote WLAN access
 

Hello Matthias, I have local WLAN access now, thanks to the member "marsh" from the Reef Central forum for his assisstance.

Could you please explain how to go about setting up for a remote connection to the Profilux via the internet, for example, from another city, country, etc..

Many thanks...
LRS ( AquaCan )

AquaCan,

I am happy to hear that your WLAN card is finally working, thanks to Marsh!
For a remote connection you need a static IP from your provider or a dynamic DNS - (http://www.dyndns.com/).
Then you must set your router that incoming calls to Port 10001 are redirected to the WLAN-card.

After that you can access your ProfiLux from another location with ProfiLuxControl. Just enter there your DynDNS or static IP.

Ok first off I gotta say what a great product this is. I haven't purchased one yet but I really like the capabilities of it. I've been researching the Profilux II on CanReef and also on other forums. I still got a few questions, and I am still making a wish list of all the components I want to attach to the unit (e.g. tunze(s), LED(s), and whatnot).

My first question would be associated to the dimmable ballast option....more specifically dimming a t5 ballast. I have been reading as many websites as I can but haven't seen a whole lot of ballasts on the aquarium vendor sites that sell dimmable ballasts. A few pages back I found the link to the Sylvania ballast, the Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM. I was just seeing what other brands there are that would run t5 high output lights that have the dimming option? I figured out how the unit works, but I'm sure there is more than 1 vendor that makes a ballast like that.

Also, does the circuit board that controlls the dimmable ballast come with a Profilux II? Or is it a accessory option that must be purchased seperatly? If so how much would that cost?

I guess it would help to say I'm located in the US. :wink:

Any help would be appreciated. I'm still making a shopping list of Profilux components I want and I'll post them here later to see how I would need to hook them up to the controller.

-Michael

Hi,

Here is a link for dimmable ballasts http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...m&id=003678766

Whatever you choose make sure they are not DALI type!. I will also check to see if the GHL distributor is stocking the correct ballasts for supply.

The control board is seperate, you have a few options depending on your lighting situation. One acts as just an interface and you would have to have the lights on a timer to shut off the main power to the lights when you are at zero point dimming, this is the cheapest option, the second option is an all in one card EVG-AP-2F which has built in zero point switching, it also acts as the interface and can be used for up to 2 ballasts. The second option is a PCB so would need internal mounting. Wiring of both is straight forward.

With regards to prices, the cheapest option would be for the interface board around $19CAD and the more expensive fully switchable unit $39CAD. These are approx prices, but would not be far off the mark.

Hope this helps

Michael
www.aqua-digital.com

hmm that link didn't work.

Thanks for the heads up on the rest. Its fun putting together a new tank...yet stressful on the equipment searching!!

-Michael

This looks like another viable option for a dimmable t5 HO ballast:

Mark 7 0-10v Electronic Dimming Ballast
RZT-2S54

http://advancetransformer.com/upload...Electronic.pdf
(page 14)

OR

Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM

http://www.sylvania.com/content/disp...m&id=003678766

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...=26797&page=39

Most odd, it works from the post I placed this under a few months back, click on this link and scroll down to my message under user ID monitors Direct (my old ID) Just tried it, that link works

Just trying again now, see if this works

Pm'd you as well with some further details

Regards
Michael

Ok I think I have a good idea on what I am going to hook up to my new controller. I just want to run it by you guys here to see what exactly I will need and how to go about connecting them to the controller (eg with L1/L2 port to use with *blank*, which 'y' connector to use and so on...)

I will start with what I want to connect to the controller:

* (2) IceCap 250w electronic metal halide ballasts
* (1) Sylvania 49673 QT2x54/120 PHO-DIM 0-10v T5 ballast (for the dimming t5's)
* (2) Tunze Stream 6100's
* pH probe (which I believe comes with the standard kit 1)
* temp probe (which I believe comes with the standard kit 1)
* LED red, bluewhite + flash stick (I have a 156g tank, and I figure this would work better than just 1 LED spotlight version)
* LAN interface (I'm leaning towards just a LAN connection vs a WLAN due to price and location of the tank)
* Profilux View II remote display (need to know how this hooks up to the main controller)

Ok what I need to know is what Profilux cables I will need to connect these items to their ports on the controller. Also if there is any information on the lengths of each cable, that will help in my design

* Profilux II Controller Kit 1 (contains the pH probe, temp probe, and at Tunze cable)

* I will need another Tunze cable since I am running 2 streams. Which one do I need?

* LED bar. Since this plugs into the L1/L2 or L3/L4 ports, and I will have 1 Tunze pump on L1/L2 and the other Tunze on L3/L4, would I need to get a splitter? If so, which one? The way I understand the splitters is that it will plug into a L1/L2 port. Then the splitter will provide a specific L1 port and then a specific L2 port. So basically its safe to say in the 'phone cord' connection, each L port uses 2 wires for signal transfer (with 4 being in each cable)? What I'm really trying to achieve here is to make sure the Tunze pumps work seperatly from each other, thus having to be on seperate L ports. Then I can plug a LED bar in, with a splitter.

* Dimmable T5 ballast. What is the name/part number of the 0-10v adapter? How does it connect to the controller? Does it use a L port? So if I have it hooked up to a splitter with a Tunze, will it all work OK?

So from what I gather now, I will have these items filled on the L ports:

L1/L2: L1 being a Tunze L2 being a LED light bar
L3/L4: L3 being a Tunze L4 being a 0-10v dimmer

* The pH and temp probes have their own ports

* The LAN will basically be a riser card. The plan is to run it directly to a computer. If later down the road I hook it up to a wireless access point (X brand), will this still work with the controller?

* How does the Profilux II remote display connect to the controller?

Sorry for the long drawn out questions, but it's basically going to help me (and others) in determining what accessory cables will be needed when ordering a unit. Thanks for any help!

-Michael

Hi,

Ok baby steps, lets break this down into parts for you.

Firstly, you would be wise to go for the connect pack as this already has LAN in it and will save you a lot of money, unless of course there are parts in it you do not require, then it would be wise to build your own system pack as you require.

Moving onto Tunze cables.

To run two tunzes you require a YL2-1 splitter cable that plugs into L1/L2 and splits the port, you then require Tunze1 and Tunze 2 cables, you cant use anything other than GHL supplied western adapters as the wiring is unique to both Tunze and GHL. With regards to cable length, up to 5 meters is available.

The LED you have chosen is fine and will plug straight into L3 L4.

If you require dimmable lighting, you will need to split the L3 L4 port with another splitter cable.

The part number for the dimmable interface with zero volt shut off is EVG-AP-2F

Wiring is striaght forward. the dimmable ballasts come with a 1-10V control line, this is just twisted pair wiring,, take the pair from the ballast and wire into the EVG card, and then plug the supplied western cable into the EVG card and Profilux. The power for the lights then is wired into the EVG card also and power for this card must be from a constant source.

It may be worth getting WLAN now if you are even contemplating going down this road it is cheaper now than later.

The profiview attaches to the back of the profilux via the RS232 cable

Let me know if I have missed anything

Regards
Michael